In general, it seems to me that the baseline load should be estimated from the load in the muscle being trained. As left and right arms are independent systems, there is an argument that we should never consider their combined performance, or, at least, we should assess the arms separately.If you think about deadhanging on a fingerboard, maximums for most people on two-handed hangs are typically not exactly 2x the maximum for one-handed hangs on the same edge; in fact generally they are significantly less than 2x. For example, I can do a one-armed 5 sec hang with about 5Kg removed on the lattice rung, which is a net load of about 60Kg (65 less 5). Last time I tried I was failing around 30Kg added for a similar two handed hang, which is a net load of only about 95Kg (65 plus 30). So my two-arm performance is barely more than 1.5x one-arm; they are distinctly different exercises
Quote from: shark on December 28, 2018, 03:14:49 pmQuote from: habrich on December 27, 2018, 09:39:28 pmQuote from: shark on December 23, 2018, 08:09:55 pmUsing a block with 10kg weight attached for pinches so 20kg total for both arms If you are picking up a block, with 10Kg attached, with one hand, your reference base-line is 10Kg.What about if I pick up two blocks at the same time..Well, one obvious question is whether your strength is symmetric between the two arms? When I was doing those pinch deadlifts (I have stopped as the exercise seemed to lead to thumb and wrist injuries) I found my right hand to be materially stronger. <insert joke here >In general, it seems to me that the baseline load should be estimated from the load in the muscle being trained. As left and right arms are independent systems, there is an argument that we should never consider their combined performance, or, at least, we should assess the arms separately.If you think about deadhanging on a fingerboard, maximums for most people on two-handed hangs are typically not exactly 2x the maximum for one-handed hangs on the same edge; in fact generally they are significantly less than 2x. For example, I can do a one-armed 5 sec hang with about 5Kg removed on the lattice rung, which is a net load of about 60Kg (65 less 5). Last time I tried I was failing around 30Kg added for a similar two handed hang, which is a net load of only about 95Kg (65 plus 30). So my two-arm performance is barely more than 1.5x one-arm; they are distinctly different exercises and baselines have to be looked at separately. I am not sure whether the results for pinch deadlifts are exactly analogous as I have not experimented but it seems a reasonable assumption.
Quote from: habrich on December 27, 2018, 09:39:28 pmQuote from: shark on December 23, 2018, 08:09:55 pmUsing a block with 10kg weight attached for pinches so 20kg total for both arms If you are picking up a block, with 10Kg attached, with one hand, your reference base-line is 10Kg.What about if I pick up two blocks at the same time..
Quote from: shark on December 23, 2018, 08:09:55 pmUsing a block with 10kg weight attached for pinches so 20kg total for both arms If you are picking up a block, with 10Kg attached, with one hand, your reference base-line is 10Kg.
Using a block with 10kg weight attached for pinches so 20kg total for both arms
Quote from: habrich on December 28, 2018, 09:07:41 pmIn general, it seems to me that the baseline load should be estimated from the load in the muscle being trained. As left and right arms are independent systems, there is an argument that we should never consider their combined performance, or, at least, we should assess the arms separately.If you think about deadhanging on a fingerboard, maximums for most people on two-handed hangs are typically not exactly 2x the maximum for one-handed hangs on the same edge; in fact generally they are significantly less than 2x. For example, I can do a one-armed 5 sec hang with about 5Kg removed on the lattice rung, which is a net load of about 60Kg (65 less 5). Last time I tried I was failing around 30Kg added for a similar two handed hang, which is a net load of only about 95Kg (65 plus 30). So my two-arm performance is barely more than 1.5x one-arm; they are distinctly different exercises Not thought of this. Why is the discrepancy so big between one arm and two arm performance. By extension does this mean we should be training assisted one armers as the proportional load is higher?
If the equipment is available, crimping/pinching a block with weight attached might be an alternative way to strengthen her fingers.
As Habrich pointed out in the link Shark posted, there is a mechanical advantage with one-arm hangs, which means they can take a higher load than each individual arm in a two-arm hang. This might help to explain some of the difference between your partners one- and two-arm hangs?
Theory: nearly all climbing moves are highly asymmetric, involve one arm much more than the other. Even when you start a move with a (bilateral) pull-up you usually end it with one arm pulling much harder as you reach/slap with the other. The consequence of this is training should be highly asymmetric.
Because with one arm you can rotate in to a more powerful position?
Maybe somehow merge with this https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,29794.msg576377.html ?