[jwi]

Quality Chuffing/Bouldering article:

http://037200b.netsolhost.com/blog-page.php?Flashback-Rich-Goldstone-19

Flashback: Rich Goldstone
Progenitor of bouldering in the 'Gunks and first to introduce chalk to climbing in the area, Goldstone talks the Vulgarian-Appie battle, John Gill and the first ascent of the Trapps’ Mac Wall Testpiece, Co-Ex

[jwi]

It is here:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11074.msg420876.html#msg420876

I have a vague memory that I hunted down the Wittgenstein-quote Adler referred to as well...

[tomtom]

On the picture of JB Tribout campusing - is that a rabbit looking up from the bottom (on the left)? (clearer on Slackers colour scan..)

[Muenchener]

Facing the Indian

This is from a year ago but I had missed it until now. I don't want to come across all ukc, but Johnny is always worth listening to

Things have changed a bit. I like Dixon's observation: "people don't seem to be into death as much as they used to be"

... which isn't necessarily a bad thing

[Fiend]

Always good reading about that period and such climbs.

People need to be into ultra-hard, ultra-bold, but non-death climbs. Ground-upping Rhapsody, that's what it's all about. Maybe.

[fatneck]

Really enjoyed this from Mr Bullock (I once burnt him off at the Beacon you know...)

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6604

[Muenchener]

Hazel on learning to climb granite cracks and being a female hard climber

[kelvin]

Cheers for that link chap. Pretty much addresses all the crap that goes through my head, expecially the not trusting myself and being put off climbs by others.

[Muenchener]

It's kind of the American Indian Face and might therefore be seen as a bit ukc / via non grata in these parts, but I still found John Bachar's account of the first ascent of the Bachar Yerian interesting.

At least it was done ground up 

[moose]

Cheers, much appreciated. The B-Y, and nearby Peace more so, are two of the the very few routes that I've walked under and found their beauty both elating yet upseting.... as I knew I'd  never be up to them.

[Fultonius]

Hazel on learning to climb granite cracks and being a female hard climber

Really enjoyed that. I was actually in Squamish the same time she was on her gap year and briefly chatted about some routes that we had done and were planning to do. At the time, the routes we were doing were on the same ballpark. I've always kept an eye on her progress and contrasted it against my own progress, or lack thereof.

Mini beast!

[cowboyhat]

Hazel on learning to climb granite cracks and being a female hard climber

Excellent.

[Fiend]

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6646

this is another level of stupidity for the pair.

 

[Johnny Brown]

http://www.rockandice.com/new-magazine-flip-book/rock-and-ice-219

Free issue online including great piece on Edlinger by Ed Douglas.

[jwi]

The Edlinger piece is quality - like real journalism. Don't see that too often in the mags nowadays. 

[Pitcairn]

http://www.rockandice.com/new-magazine-flip-book/rock-and-ice-219

Free issue online including great piece on Edlinger by Ed Douglas.

Thanks for the link.  Really enjoyed the Edlinger piece.  He was a great hero of mine when I started climbing.  Such a sad end to his life.

[Johnny Brown]

Me too. I had a VHS with a 15 min short on it that I watched over and over. Great writing, I guess the depth of research isn't worth doing for a Uk mag. Couldn't see them putting that pic on the cover either.

[mindfull]

Did like it also. My best friend and climbing partner who was no slouch either in the 80's had the opportunity at that time to climb alongsides Hill, Edlinger, Destivelle, ... and felt he couldn't even reach their ankles.

[mrjonathanr]

That paragraph on Mr. Ed's moment of triumph at Snowbird is excellent.

[cofe]

http://www.rockandice.com/new-magazine-flip-book/rock-and-ice-219

Free issue online including great piece on Edlinger by Ed Douglas.

What everyone else said: the Edlinger piece is fantastic.

[Jaspersharpe]

Thanks for that JB. Excellent article.

[Bonjoy]

Ditto, good read that

[andy popp]

It is really good, we need so much more of this. There's just one line early on about being 'set unknowingly on a course that would end 30 years later in tragedy' that I hated. Is that how life works, almost as though its written in the stars?

Pernickety I know, it just jarred with the rest of the article.

[jwi]

oh well, it's all too easy to fall into religious language when talking about drug abuse: destiny, redemption, abandonment etc...

[mrjonathanr]

Dear Brutus, no.

I think it's fine to delineate the inevitable consequences of a choice made years ago- except that's not what Ed Douglas does there, he's just momentarily lapsed into the portentous/melodramatic. I don't think there's clarity -even being discreet- about how Edlinger came to decline as he did. I don't really need to know that though, that's personal.

What is relevant is how he came to be at the cutting edge of a sport he did so much to shape himself and the article is superb on that. And that paragraph about his apotheosis at Snowbird- that's quality.