[Stubbs]

Seigrist may not have Ondra's ticklist, but he's pretty handy, multiple 9a first ascents etc.

[slackline]

You're climbing shoes are too tight

Took some searching but the study he mentioned but failed to cite is...

Can't find an openly available PDF of the 1998 study cited but the abstract is here and in addition to the papers Tom Bond cites at the end of his post I also came across a paper from last year...

Foot Overuse Diseases in Rock Climbing
An Epidemiologic Study (again no freely available PDF).

[jwi]

Lots of those cool/not cool lists can be shorten by just spelling out clearly that it's not cool to be poor (wearing adidas/nike at the crag) and that having more money is better (wearing overpriced designer clothing like Prana etc).

That is a fact of life, but I find it a tad gauche to spell it out...

[Wood FT]

if someone is wearing addidas at the crag I don't think of them poor. . .

[cheque]

Lots of those cool/not cool lists can be shorten by just spelling out clearly that it's not cool to be poor (wearing adidas/nike at the crag) and that having more money is better (wearing overpriced designer clothing like Prana etc).

That is a fact of life, but I find it a tad gauche to spell it out...

Some of the stuff on the CDB list (using an aid-climber's daisychain for going into a sport belay, having an OTT chalk bag, getting a personalised number plate) are to do with trying too hard and spending unneccesary money though.

[PipeSmoke]

Lots of those cool/not cool lists can be shorten by just spelling out clearly that it's not cool to be poor (wearing adidas/nike at the crag) and that having more money is better (wearing overpriced designer clothing like Prana etc).

That is a fact of life, but I find it a tad gauche to spell it out...

Nike and adidas are still fairly pricey if your after trainers, sweats or jumpers n whatever else to be fair

[Gus]

Just seen the rock and ice list,

Well psyched at how many of those I get to tick:

Crocs (chee dale river crossing innit)
non native encouragement
visor - hell yeah!
stick clip- obis
stuff clipped to outside of pack - my crag admin is crap so makes sense, especially wet crocs!
Mainstream sportswear- 'das and Nike obvs!
use of "crush"
extensive use of "word"
fist bump- now and then.

Well I never!

[PipeSmoke]

clipping your crocs to outside of your pack has to be worth double points haha

[cowboyhat]

' running on a treadmill at the climbing gym—while wearing climbing shoes'

No treadmill, but there are rowing machines at the castle. Some incredible shit goes down in that gym. And could have a sub section 'weird stunts on campus board'.

[Paul B]

Does it contain someone trying to do a rock-over (barefoot) and getting stuck in the position whereby their only means of exit was exploding off backwards?

[cowboyhat]

Does it contain someone trying to do a rock-over (barefoot) and getting stuck in the position whereby their only means of exit was exploding off backwards?

Of course. I've always wanted to do a crimes against campus video but never got round to it etc.

[slackline]

The Mentorship Gap : What Climbing Gyms Can't Teach You

A rebuttal....Climbing Gyms Aren’t the Problem; Assholes Are.

[mrjonathanr]

This deserves reproducing:

Climbing is a game of personal responsibility. You have to wonder what kind of person could look at a cliff and not see the obvious consequence of going up there without knowing what they’re doing.

I suspect that describes my teenage self perfectly.

[Johnny Brown]

Not really surprising though is it? If you start in very similar artificial version where it really isn't your responsibility... and when you go outdoors none of the anchors are your responsibility either...

[mrjonathanr]

Then ...you probably don't climb on grit?

[shark]

Mick Ward takes another trip back in time

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6360

[SA Chris]

Enjoyed that.

[Muenchener]

I wasn't that impressed either. It did, however, remind of Alex MacInytre's classic article Mama's Boys about his ascent of the Harlin Route on the Eiger. One of *the* definitive pieces of climbing writing of that era but iirc not in Games Climbers Play or Mirrors in the Cliffs.

Anybody with a collection of Mountain magazine able to dig out a copy?

[krymson]

http://www.verticallifemag.com.au/2014/06/a-punters-guide-to-australias-well-ard-climbers/

[JackAus]

http://www.verticallifemag.com.au/2014/06/a-punters-guide-to-australias-well-ard-climbers/

Very funny article on which Aussie climber is most likely to be the first to climb 9a. 

[Fultonius]

I've written a hefty tome about my trip to the yosemite last year. I can't quite decide what to do with it. I don't have a blog and am not really interested in blogging, but I quite liked the process of writing about it.

I have no idea if it is the kind of thing anyone would be interested in reading. It's probably poorly written, egotistical drivel. If anyone wants a peek let me know. Haha.

[Falling Down]

It's probably poorly written, egotistical drivel.

Send it in to one of the UK Climbing Mags?

(Alternatively just copy and paste it into a post here... Seems a shame to have put all that work in and not have others read it)

[Fultonius]

Since a few of you asked to read it, here's my trip report from Yosemite. This is Part 1 - I'll upload part 2 later. Part 3 isn't even written yet, and might never be.

I'm not sure this should be in "quality chuffing articles"...

Be warned, it's long.

[SA Chris]

That cam spreadsheet is a fine bit of engineering geekery.

[Fultonius]

Thought you might like that one Chris.