[webbo]

what are the offical starting holds.

[Bonjoy]

Very low start on the low left pocket with both hands. That's the way the FA was done.  It had been climbed previously at 7b by Welford from a higher sitting start off a rock. Zaff moved the rock and worked it from the low start but it was actually polish Dave Scotchlas who did it first (Zaff did the second ascent minutes later).

[webbo]

he don't start that low in the video.what's the grade for the low start.

[Bonjoy]

Gradewise _ Welford start off stone was given 7b.
 Lower start was originaly graded 8a :shock:  but has since gone down to 7c on UKB prob database and judging by Ru's comments on another thread will be going in new book at 7b+. I would say 7c from low start (my font grading being on top post-font form at the mo). I think some of the internet downgrading of the past was due to people doing the prob from a standard sitter which is a whole lot easier than the full prob and wondering why it felt easy.

[Bonjoy]

The videod ascent wasn't the FA, just a working attempt. Zaff also used some sick tiny sloper sidepull instead of the obvious one which is now used.

[cofe]

rock schmock.

the laying down start is a bit whateva. just sit under it, pull on on either side of the ramp and enjoy. i seem to remember getting a full body pump. weird.

[Johnny Brown]

whateva yerself cofe. I can understand you needin to start higher, but the only logical place to start is at the back, in the pocket. Anywhere else and you're just workin the thing

[Jim]

[cofe]

whateva yerself cofe. I can understand you needin to start higher, but the only logical place to start is at the back, in the pocket. Anywhere else and you're just workin the thing

all i'm hearing is "mur mur mur", only a



would start lying at the back. whats wrong with you people