Quote from: Bradders on February 01, 2022, 09:58:11 amAnd yes definitely have to warm up! But generally doesn't take me long.Details please!
And yes definitely have to warm up! But generally doesn't take me long.
Fair enough, if that works for you. How do you drop weight and keep energy levels up? I'm obviously training a bit heavy this winter, which means I'll probably need to drop 2-3kg in the spring. I've never really tried to time some limited weight loss for a trip (if ever I've been heavy I've just done the young guy thing of eating less and training more, but that doesn't seem to work at 38! I'm guessing you need to just reduce volume a bit and focus more on maintenance rather than gains? How long over, 2-3 weeks?
My experiences differ to yours then. My best performances have been when I’m about 11 stone or a bit under so weighing in at 11.10 (the most Ive been in recent years around Xmas is 11.12) was a shock especially as I’d thought I’d lost weight on the trip and concerning as it takes me a long time to lose weight and I’m higher than normal for this time of year. The 11.4-6 range is my target as it is sustainable and allows me drop to my (unsustainable) redpoint weight within a few weeks, for a few weeks.
Bradders, for the relative strength equation do you think it's easier to lose weight or gain strength?
There are a few stages but difficult to pinpoint exactly where you are1. Obviously too fat2. Fat enough to optimally fuel and supercompensate from strength training3. Sustainably thin enough to climb well but compromise strength gainz4. Unsustainably thin enough to crush5. Live miserably long term in an unsustainably thin state but still crush6. Seek medical help and bravely post on Instagram about your struggle so others can learn whilst it being obvious you kicked ass whilst thin
As a complete aside, my partner managed 82% BW on some 1-arm hangs yesterday (27mm campus rung - so bigger than normal testing size). She’d like to get up some 7a’s on our trip. I’m assuming this should be more than strong enough - just that she needs to be able work on her (far worse than mine) aerobic capacity more?
Session plans are now:Two sessions of:1) Warm up2) 85% max hangs3) Normal board session4) 1 on 1 off - building to 2 on 1 off.5) Weighted Pull ups
QuoteSession plans are now:Two sessions of:1) Warm up2) 85% max hangs3) Normal board session4) 1 on 1 off - building to 2 on 1 off.5) Weighted Pull upsI presume number 4 here is circuits, 1 minute on 1 minute off?
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on February 03, 2022, 10:00:11 amQuoteSession plans are now:Two sessions of:1) Warm up2) 85% max hangs3) Normal board session4) 1 on 1 off - building to 2 on 1 off.5) Weighted Pull upsI presume number 4 here is circuits, 1 minute on 1 minute off?Yeah that’s right. Doing in on our 25 degree board. Currently just using a mix of holds - randomly moving around at the moment. Did 7 repeats of it yesterday and I as close to failing on the 7th. So maybe a little hard but think I could battle through until the 9th at this kind of level.
Quote from: James Malloch on February 03, 2022, 10:28:08 amQuote from: spidermonkey09 on February 03, 2022, 10:00:11 amQuoteSession plans are now:Two sessions of:1) Warm up2) 85% max hangs3) Normal board session4) 1 on 1 off - building to 2 on 1 off.5) Weighted Pull upsI presume number 4 here is circuits, 1 minute on 1 minute off?Yeah that’s right. Doing in on our 25 degree board. Currently just using a mix of holds - randomly moving around at the moment. Did 7 repeats of it yesterday and I as close to failing on the 7th. So maybe a little hard but think I could battle through until the 9th at this kind of level.Obviously I am not a training guru by any stretch, but I'd be thinking of doing the weighted pullups at the start of the session rather than right at the end? Thought so re the circuits; when I did aerocap I used to do 1on, 1 off x10, so 20 mins total, at the enbd of a session and normally use the 6a circuit on the Depot board. I didn't ever get above about 4/10 pumped; I;d have thought if you're failing on aerocap you're moving into aeropow a bit? Will still be doing you good though obviously!
I’d say when I got to the last rep (#7 - going to up it to 10 next time) I was about 6 or 7/10 pumped. Possibly into the power range as you say…
Just step off, or put a foot on the ground for a bit. You can (CAN, but it's dull as fuck) do a decent aerocap routine on a fingerboard standing o the ground. I've done it on my 30* board standing on the ground and just working around various holds.Sounds like you could bring your overall circuit difficulty down using the same holds just by the above ^^