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Waddage You've Seen? (Read 15259 times)

Nigel

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Waddage You've Seen?
October 27, 2004, 07:15:27 pm
Come on, most folk on here have been around a bit, and unlike other sports/pursuits we're uncommonly priveleged to be able to see our top wads (beasts, good climbers etc.) for free, at the same crags we go to! Sometimes even on the same problem!

So what are the most waddish things you've ever borne witness to (videos don't count)? I'll allow routes aswell if you want!

Myself, its so hard to choose! One of:

Seeing Andy Earl flash Art Of Self Destruction V11 at Woodwell. With ease  :shock:
Watching Moony pretty much do an unrepeated Smith 8a+ in the School (= at least 8b outside). Heinous.
Seeing Bernd Zangerl cruising to the last move of Sharma's Magic Wood 8b+ link without breaking a sweat, and then dropping off because he was "scared". Would have been the FA!
Numerous Pasquill moments of beastliness. Probably Stonelove F8b+ in full summer sweatiness. Or doing 2 quick 8a's then a ten minute ascent of an 8a+ in Magic Wood. Or FA of Master Kush.
Mark Katz unleashing it on Isla de Encanta. Rampant  :shock:
Pete Hurley flashing Lord of the Flies in about 5 minutes.

I'll probably plump for Patxi trying Realization. Just strolling up the 8c+ missing most of the bolts. Not because he had to, but because he didn't need them - too easy! Then locking off the crux of the extension with ease. Unfortunately his Boreals (shite) slipped just as he went for the finishing jug.  :cry: True vertical ballet...

I bet ol' Panton's got a few!

Fingers of a Martyr

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#1 Waddage You've Seen?
October 27, 2004, 07:37:40 pm
seen dunning CRUISE PS and PP on the bowderstone 1st try on the BS after he'd been cragging all day. that's about it really, i don't get out much :roll:

webbo

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#2 Waddage You've Seen?
October 27, 2004, 08:37:13 pm
seeing steve bancroft dance. :shock:

Gad

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#3 Waddage You've Seen?
October 27, 2004, 08:51:05 pm
Watching Jackie Godoff crowd surfing and Andy Earl order 4 sambucas, in fluent geordie, from a french barmaid in Ailefroide or Tim Clifford and Andy Brown warm up 8a stylee in the Magic Wood in the damp!

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#4 Waddage You've Seen?
October 27, 2004, 09:21:13 pm
seen vickers at the bowderstone, think he was trying that line steve dunning got first accent of, cant remember the name, freekin strong climber  :shock:

also seen chris davies on Jerrys roof, bloody nice bloke too

Nigel

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#5 Waddage You've Seen?
October 27, 2004, 11:03:51 pm
Quote from: "Fingers of a Martyr"
seen dunning CRUISE PS and PP on the bowderstone 1st try on the BS after he'd been cragging all day. that's about it really, i don't get out much :roll:


Obviously not! Even I can (could) cruise those problems 1st go. Something impressive please... :idea:

Fingers of a Martyr

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#6 Waddage You've Seen?
October 27, 2004, 11:10:51 pm
u see nigella there's cruisin and then there's CRUISIN. he made it look pathetically easy and i very much doubt u cud climb those problems with the style and ease that he did.

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#7 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 12:14:27 am
Have you met Nigel?

I find it best not to make sweeping generalisations before I climb with someone.

Oh I also assume everyone is WAY better than me.  It makes being burnt off easier to take

 :lol:

Fingers of a Martyr

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#8 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 12:30:57 am
Quote
Have you met Nigel?


yeah briefly.

sorry nigel, it's just that the way he climbed them problems really impressed me.

Quote
Oh I also assume everyone is WAY better than me


nigel is WAY better than me, i wasn't disputin that :?  just sayin that i would have thort someone who's climbed v15 and 8C+ cud make a 7b look easier than nige. sorry for making generalisatiosn tho.

hongkongstuey

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#9 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 01:32:57 am
Matt Birch levitating his way up stuff at Almscliff impressed me - as does the Cottle tantrum when it rears it's ugly head

Bubba

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#10 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 06:08:03 am
Quote from: "hongkongstuey"
as does the Cottle tantrum when it rears it's ugly head


:lol:

Like this but much angrier



I don't get to see that much true waddage, not getting around as much these days ( :oldgit: ) but the last thing I saw was probably C.J.D. dispatching The Joker in about 25 mins in pretty greasy conditions whilst having a toke - effort :)

Shit, that was ages ago now - I need to get out more.

SA Chris

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#11 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 08:00:09 am
Was at area 51 at Joe's Valley and some random punter turned up and cranked off a V9 or 10 first go, Did Resident Evil V11 second try, then had a few tries on Black Lung, getting close on the crux move. No idea who he was, just some random from SLC.

Graeme

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#12 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 08:05:22 am
I probabaly saw something impressive once, I can't seem to remember although I was quite impressed on a wet day to see Seb Greive walk over to Oedipus, say to me and me mate alright and the cruise it before downclimbing it and dispatching the pinnacle traverse with consumate ease, in the wet, I may add.

Palomides

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#13 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 08:57:30 am
I've seen Ron's willy.

Does that count?

Bubba

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#14 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 09:42:32 am
If it matches the size of his hands....

jimbo

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#15 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 10:18:38 am
A few years back, went to the plantation to try and shake of an exceptionally violent hangover and witnessed the Hig do the drop down bit of bens extension and shuffle a few moves along the shelf of jerry's traverse completely footless. If my memory serves me right he was wearing walking boots and a down jacket at he time.

Fierce as fuck.

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#16 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 10:30:29 am
I had the fortune to bump into Robin Barker et famille not so long ago at the Brockstone in't Lakes. Nice guy, did the sit down start to the problem up the bottom left arete second go! I don't think it's THAT hard, V7 or so, but impressive to watch for a punter like myself  :oops:

Also, saw some guy crank Truth SDS at Porth Ysgo during the summer, beautifull problem, no holds... AWESOME! :worthy:

dobbin

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#17 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 10:52:02 am
Our very own Buoux 8c demonstrating the hardest move on the neo-classic Turd Reich (7c+, the school), then remarking 'but I can do it footless' and proceeding to do so with consumate ease.

The Clifford 'just trying that next move' and continuing to the top of an 8b (Steppenwolfe, Magic wood) after about 5 goes.

And the one and only Malc Smith invite me to 'have a look at this I've been working on' then making outrageous moves off what can only be described as ripples on gritstone when it was a sweaty day.

Palomides

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#18 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 10:58:29 am
Does John Welford still do the Powerband for a warmup?

Maybe this is the standard Tor warmup, but it impressed me at the time.

dobbin

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#19 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 11:25:07 am
Probably! The Harris stops for a breather on that move at the end that mortals find hard - before continuing along the base of the crag. Its easy for him though, he's a midget  :wink:

Nigel

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#20 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 11:29:57 am
That's more like it!

Fingers, Dunning certainly could cruise those problems better than me. But Palomides has seen Ron's dong! Now that is real waddage...

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#21 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 12:07:51 pm
After filming 2 of my buddies fall, repeatedly, off Ulan Batar (7b+) at Rocklands for 2 hours, some short Austrian bastard pitched up and flashes it. It's a reachy problem, and he still just cruised it. Massive waddage.

Watching another friend do Pendragon (8a) at Rocklands 1st go, after trying it briefly a year before. Was his first 8a too..

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#22 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 12:12:15 pm
For me it's not always the big numbers, rather just absurd moments when people do remarkable things. Here's a few of the top of my head:

Ben Moon 'retro flashing' (he'd been on it once about 3 years previous apparently) Jehovah Kill at Raven Tor. I was belaying just to the left, and Mark Pretty asked me to pull the other rope from the top belay so that it was out of the way for Ben who was just moving into a hard rockover high up the route. I yanked the rope and it came down and smacked Ben straight on the forehead. He reeled backwards for a second, but managed to pull back on with a determined grunt. Amazing stuff. Suffice to say he wasn't best pleased with me. :oops:

Belaying Tim Emmett on Totally Wired 9 in the Pass. On a top rope he had cruised the crux section totally static, but on the lead he paused in a position of almost certain deckout and started bobbing his head. I knew from climbing with Tim that this meant he was about to slap for a hold. I couldn't watch, felt sick, and turned away for a second. When I looked back, he'd hit the next hold and was racing off up the rest of the route. :shock:

On the bouldering front: watching Katz do the top move of Organ Grinder at Split Infinity static was a jaw dropping moment. Pete Robins doing the Barrel Traverse with his feet in the break was just about the most outrageous display of technical footwork and radical body positioning I have ever seen. CJD doing Vienna in the rain was quite disturbing too.

Excellent thread Nigello, I'll come back with some more later.

Big Frank

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#23 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 12:46:06 pm
Big Ron at almscliffe doing the photo shoot for Fawcett on Rock. He soloed Wall of Horrors three time in a row, whats more the photographer was asking him to pose " Hold it their ron, one hand ron" etc.

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#24 Waddage You've Seen?
October 28, 2004, 12:54:50 pm
Watching the VadWad tear Caley to pieces has to be one the most impressive days Ive seen on Grit. Finishing off with onsite solo ascents of Psycho, Adrenaline Rsuh and Marabone, all three within about 10 mins. His flashed acent of  zoo york was pretty impressive too but I think that was a different day.

Like they say, the boys no punter .

 

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