. I don’t however think I can go with my ‘just turn up and do some stuff’ approach this time round.
If it helps I can post a photo of the table on here.
I have a copy of The Self-Coached and remember thinking this was really good when I read it ages ago. In it there’s a table that shows the level required across different performance areas in order to have a realistic expectation of making a quick redpoint at a certain grade. Interestingly however there’s no explicit mention of fingerboading (looking at the index).
Just to wind JWI up: https://strengthclimbing.com/finger-strength-analyzer/Apparently I should be projecting 7A+ boulders, despite the fact I often flash 7A and have flashed 7A+ (outdoors, once), still dining out on that low level achievement
Anyway, here is my opinion for sport climbing benchmarking. Suppose that you want to be able to redpoint most 8a reasonably quick (about 5 tries or so in any style from cruxy to long stamina plod) then you should be able to:1. (Lactate treshold test/Endurance) Climb a 7a of 30 moves 10 times with 1 minute rest between the laps2. (Anaerobic capacity at 80% of max/Strength endurance) Climb a 7b of 30 moves 6 times with 8 min rest between the laps3. (Anaerobic power at 85% of max/Strength endurance) Climb an 7c of 30 moves 2 times with 30 min rest between the laps.
Quote from: Fultonius on November 28, 2021, 04:07:33 pmJust to wind JWI up: https://strengthclimbing.com/finger-strength-analyzer/Apparently I should be projecting 7A+ boulders, despite the fact I often flash 7A and have flashed 7A+ (outdoors, once), still dining out on that low level achievement Apparently I should be projecting 7C+ despite never having done anything more than 7A+Think we can agree it is a precise and scientifically unquestionable piece of technology
Quote from: jwi on November 28, 2021, 05:08:50 pmAnyway, here is my opinion for sport climbing benchmarking. Suppose that you want to be able to redpoint most 8a reasonably quick (about 5 tries or so in any style from cruxy to long stamina plod) then you should be able to:1. (Lactate treshold test/Endurance) Climb a 7a of 30 moves 10 times with 1 minute rest between the laps2. (Anaerobic capacity at 80% of max/Strength endurance) Climb a 7b of 30 moves 6 times with 8 min rest between the laps3. (Anaerobic power at 85% of max/Strength endurance) Climb an 7c of 30 moves 2 times with 30 min rest between the laps.Are these on routes you've already got wired?
Quote from: Wellsy on November 28, 2021, 07:26:22 pmQuote from: Fultonius on November 28, 2021, 04:07:33 pmJust to wind JWI up: https://strengthclimbing.com/finger-strength-analyzer/Apparently I should be projecting 7A+ boulders, despite the fact I often flash 7A and have flashed 7A+ (outdoors, once), still dining out on that low level achievement Apparently I should be projecting 7C+ despite never having done anything more than 7A+Think we can agree it is a precise and scientifically unquestionable piece of technologyCan't argue with SCIENCE. We all know you're an overstrong beast just waiting for the moment to strike...
I seem to be an outlier going by comments in this forum, but finger strength on a fingerboard has always had a pretty direct correlation with my performance on rock (bouldering). Every 10% I've gained on my max hang has equaled 1 grade, and that's happened like clockwork, across 5 grades over 3 years. But I was clearly finger strength limited, so your mileage will vary.
Quote from: Fultonius on November 28, 2021, 04:07:33 pmJust to wind JWI up: https://strengthclimbing.com/finger-strength-analyzer/Apparently I should be projecting 7A+ boulders, despite the fact I often flash 7A and have flashed 7A+ (outdoors, once), still dining out on that low level achievement hahahaFor the OP:Every time I suggest that people should judge their weakness or strengths on routes instead of a short wooden strip I just get looks of general in-comprehension back...Anyway, here is my opinion for sport climbing benchmarking. Suppose that you want to be able to redpoint most 8a reasonably quick (about 5 tries or so in any style from cruxy to long stamina plod) then you should be able to:1. (Lactate treshold test/Endurance) Climb a 7a of 30 moves 10 times with 1 minute rest between the laps2. (Anaerobic capacity at 80% of max/Strength endurance) Climb a 7b of 30 moves 6 times with 8 min rest between the laps3. (Anaerobic power at 85% of max/Strength endurance) Climb an 7c of 30 moves 2 times with 30 min rest between the laps.4. (Strength) Do a technically basic 7B of about 5-6 moves in five tries. Translate for other levels. 8c climbers (quick redpoint) should have the levels 7c/8a/8b/8APersonally I am disproportionally strong on test 3, spot on on test 1 and 2 and substandard on test 4.
From a previous thread, jwi suggested the following for those aiming for a 7c in a day or a sieged 8a:Strength:1. You should be able to do all the moves on a sustained six move boulder @ 7A-7B within two sessions2. You should be able to boulder 6C-7A regardless of length (3 to 8 moves)Strength endurance:3. Climb three consecutive boulder problems ~6B with ≤10 s rest between them. Repeat 6 times with 6 min rest.Threshold:4. Climb a 30 move 7a-7b 8 times in a row with 6 min rest between them.Endurance:5. You should be able to do a 30 move sustained route of grade 6c-7a ten times with one minute rest between the goes. (A single fall on each of the two last laps is OK)If your are on the strong side (can do 7A boulder of all lengths) it's ok to have less good endurance (ten laps on 6c), and vice versa. Select route accordingly. Can this be extrapolated down: eg to 7b by knocking a couple of grades off each criteria? My impression is nonspecific benchmarks (eg fingerboard tests) become almost irrelevant at lower grades but climbing ones should still work to some extent.