Doing many boulder repeats over a long session works well for the type of routes I climb (bouldery with decent rests). If the routes you climb have longer 'cruxy' sections, tailor the length of your boulders appropriately.Having the ability to recover aerobically from a power output is very useful for sending sport climbs.A good rule of thumb is 4-6x rest for the work being done. Every Minute On the Minute (EMOM) is a great starting protocol for 6-8 move boulders. Gradually make your EMOM sessions longer and longer with a shorter 'recovery' session every third or fourth.Choose boulders you can do every time when fresh but still require focus and effort. Climb with intention and good breathwork. Recover with nasal breathing only.I used the table in this articlehttps://www.strongfirst.com/where-do-you-go-after-simple/ for a 6 week EMOM training period. I felt like I couldn't fall off of anything for a few months afterword.
5 mins on 3 mins off x 31 min on 1 min off x 10Trance music and make-believe helps
Essential: 3x10mins low intensity, not getting pumped. 50 minutes. Can be done after a session, being out or even on a rest day. Very boring. no amont of trance will helpDesirable: 10x 1min on/off. Can be FoC, get pumped but don't fail. 20 minutes, end of session, after being outOptional but effective, maybe add it in January: AnCap. 3 sets of 4x45s/12 moves, 2-4 times rest, 5 mins between sets. about 40 minutes total. Can be done end of a short boulder session, second day on or with conditioning. Does feel like training but is lots of fun. Liklely to need a rest day afterwardsThis has worked for me and fitted in around boludering and training okOr just have fun, get stronger and then pack it all in come March when motovation returns
Quote from: rjtrials on September 16, 2021, 01:32:37 pmDoing many boulder repeats over a long session works well for the type of routes I climb (bouldery with decent rests). If the routes you climb have longer 'cruxy' sections, tailor the length of your boulders appropriately.Having the ability to recover aerobically from a power output is very useful for sending sport climbs.A good rule of thumb is 4-6x rest for the work being done. Every Minute On the Minute (EMOM) is a great starting protocol for 6-8 move boulders. Gradually make your EMOM sessions longer and longer with a shorter 'recovery' session every third or fourth.Choose boulders you can do every time when fresh but still require focus and effort. Climb with intention and good breathwork. Recover with nasal breathing only.I used the table in this articlehttps://www.strongfirst.com/where-do-you-go-after-simple/ for a 6 week EMOM training period. I felt like I couldn't fall off of anything for a few months afterword. Sounds like that could be fun/torturous! Getting up to 44 minutes sounds hard!Did you find that you had to adjust the intensity much? Or did you just choose one problem and stick with it over the 6 weeks?
Are you saying that you managed or got close to managing 44 x V4-6 Moonboard board problems on the minute?
I did an 8b I had tried for a couple of different seasons, never really that close, in two sessions. V6 off the deck, resistant mid 12 section to a good rest. v7 in a roof, ok rest, resistant 12+ section, strenuous rest, v7 redpoint crux.
Quote from: rjtrials on September 22, 2021, 04:33:03 pmI did an 8b I had tried for a couple of different seasons, never really that close, in two sessions. V6 off the deck, resistant mid 12 section to a good rest. v7 in a roof, ok rest, resistant 12+ section, strenuous rest, v7 redpoint crux.This sounds like a fucking nails 8b to me! Is my grading calculator wrong?
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on September 22, 2021, 04:44:39 pmQuote from: rjtrials on September 22, 2021, 04:33:03 pmI did an 8b I had tried for a couple of different seasons, never really that close, in two sessions. V6 off the deck, resistant mid 12 section to a good rest. v7 in a roof, ok rest, resistant 12+ section, strenuous rest, v7 redpoint crux.This sounds like a fucking nails 8b to me! Is my grading calculator wrong?+2. Sounds like 8b without the v7 rp crux at then end? v7, that is hard Font 7a+ right?
513??also what SM09 said!!
Quote from: shark on September 22, 2021, 02:28:57 pmAre you saying that you managed or got close to managing 44 x V4-6 Moonboard board problems on the minute? I've done this a few times over the last year or so in different phases, mainly on set boulders at the Depot but also on a board. Definitely helped my overall capacity, and my route fitness went from totally non-existent to just poor. Grade used will obviously be what's appropriate for the climber but needs to be around onsight level, not failing at all but not far off.
Quote from: Bradders on September 22, 2021, 07:22:57 pmQuote from: shark on September 22, 2021, 02:28:57 pmAre you saying that you managed or got close to managing 44 x V4-6 Moonboard board problems on the minute? I've done this a few times over the last year or so in different phases, mainly on set boulders at the Depot but also on a board. Definitely helped my overall capacity, and my route fitness went from totally non-existent to just poor. Grade used will obviously be what's appropriate for the climber but needs to be around onsight level, not failing at all but not far off.This Boulder Every Minute on the Minute sounds really appealing.Anyone got an opinion on what energy system it's training?
Quote from: Rocksteady on October 01, 2021, 11:07:08 amQuote from: Bradders on September 22, 2021, 07:22:57 pmQuote from: shark on September 22, 2021, 02:28:57 pmAre you saying that you managed or got close to managing 44 x V4-6 Moonboard board problems on the minute? I've done this a few times over the last year or so in different phases, mainly on set boulders at the Depot but also on a board. Definitely helped my overall capacity, and my route fitness went from totally non-existent to just poor. Grade used will obviously be what's appropriate for the climber but needs to be around onsight level, not failing at all but not far off.This Boulder Every Minute on the Minute sounds really appealing.Anyone got an opinion on what energy system it's training?If the boulders are 'hard enough' they should deplete a fair amount of ATP in the system which then is replenished by the aerobic system. This is trying to bypass the glycolytic system and has been dubbed 'anti-glycolytic training.'You should never be pumped but should be fighting the 'powered out' feeling.