I have a similar issue and am currently trying to resolve it by doing longer duration hangs on micros. For me this currently means 15s reps on the BM 8mm - hoping it will help build tolerance in the longer term!
Isn't this what antihydral is supposed to help with? Not tried it myself other than the similar Rhino Skin products. Otherwise as Micha says I think it's something you can condition, so same principle as anything else build up gradually.
Isn't this what antihydral is supposed to help with? Not tried it myself other than the similar Rhino Skin products.
I cannot speak for ducko but I get actual visible haematomata on my fingertips sometimes.
Quote from: jwi on September 06, 2021, 09:54:26 amI cannot speak for ducko but I get actual visible haematomata on my fingertips sometimes.Same, like the outer skin is stronger than the flesh underneath! I saw some Euros applying some sort of topical pain killer (maybe lidocaine?) to their tips in Switzerland, seemed like a bad idea on a few levels!
Quote from: teestub on September 06, 2021, 09:58:08 amQuote from: jwi on September 06, 2021, 09:54:26 amI cannot speak for ducko but I get actual visible haematomata on my fingertips sometimes.Same, like the outer skin is stronger than the flesh underneath! I saw some Euros applying some sort of topical pain killer (maybe lidocaine?) to their tips in Switzerland, seemed like a bad idea on a few levels!Seem to remember a video of Steph Davies where she talks about taking painkillers before going crack climbing to reduce the discomfort
When you say bruising, do you mean just pain, or actual visible bruises under the skin?
visible haematomata
Ola Gringos, I’ve got quiet chunky fingers and when clinbing on edges I get bruised pulp under my fingertips regular, it’s a pain in the hoop as my skin is fine but to climb is painful I was wondering if anyone has the same issue and has found any work around for this issue? Cheers fellas
Quote from: ducko on September 03, 2021, 11:20:05 pmOla Gringos, I’ve got quiet chunky fingers and when clinbing on edges I get bruised pulp under my fingertips regular, it’s a pain in the hoop as my skin is fine but to climb is painful I was wondering if anyone has the same issue and has found any work around for this issue? Cheers fellasOne way I got over this is by toughening and trying to desensitise the affected area.I found simply just massaging and pushing my thumb nail into the tip was a good starting point, gradually building up pain tolerance. This was a tip I was given when I started playing the guitar but it seems to apply to crimpers as well.Another thing I used was heat. After making my morning coffee in the moka pot I would put my tips on the hot base for a few seconds. This worked really well over time, just don't do it on serious climbing days if you are not used to it.You may already do these things but I thought it worth mentioning..
I think haematoma is the correct word, unless when jwi says Quote visible haematomata he means his fingers look like squashed tomatas
Hopefully still on topic, but does anyone notice a massive and seemingly disproportionate drop off in performance when a particular edge size is used?I find my performance drops off a cliff on the 6mm micros in comparison to the 8mm. E.g. I can add quite a bit of weight on the 8's and hang for over 10 seconds, but can barely complete a 5 second bodyweight hang on the 6's! Likewise the skin damage goes from none at all at 8mm (even weighted), to cutting into the skin on every tip at 6mm!