UKBouldering.com

Tokyo Olympics Sport Climbing schedule (Read 68318 times)

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8171
  • Karma: +661/-121
    • Unknown Stones
If Ondra wins lead, Duffy/Schubert come 2nd/3rd and Gines-Lopez comes 4th, then Ondra would get gold.......IT COULD STILL HAPPEN FOLKS.

 :lol:

I too have just been sat here with a spreadsheet trying to work out what convoluted sequence of events could conspire to catapult Ondra to his rightful place atop the podium.


While I was at it I thought I'd check in on speed "climbing". I'm delighted to report that the event was won by the climber with the 5th fastest fastest time.

   [th]Climber[/th]
   [th]Rank (head 2 head)[/th]
   [th]Rank (fastest time)[/th]
Gines Lopez15
Narasaki21
Mawem34
Ondra47
Duffy53
Coleman62
Schubert76



Edit: No idea how to use BBcode tables. First number is the rank given by head-to-head, second number is ranks by who logged the fastest time over their runs.

Stu Littlefair

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1861
  • Karma: +287/-2
    • http://www.darkpeakimages.co.uk
Highlights why using the score multipliers in combination with a head to head format in speed is a bad idea.

Either by themselves is arguably ok, but the combination is too distorting. Nathaniel would be a nailed on gold if it were done by time, and Ondra’s bye would have caused no issues.

joel182

Online
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 348
  • Karma: +49/-1
Highlights why using the score multipliers in combination with a head to head format in speed is a bad idea.

Either by themselves is arguably ok, but the combination is too distorting. Nathaniel would be a nailed on gold if it were done by time, and Ondra’s bye would have caused no issues.

Don't know about that - Nathaniel would have 2 x 1 and Tomoa would have 1 x 3, leaving plenty to play for in the Lead.

Absolutely agree in general though. The multiplier with the head to head does not work at all and has led to some pretty unfair feeling results.

GraemeA

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1885
  • Karma: +80/-6
  • FTM
    • The Works, it's the Bollocks
1 x 1 x 1 = 3 according to Eurosport. Likewise 5 x 6 = 35

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29579
  • Karma: +643/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
If my understanding is correct, looks like Ondra can get now got silver or bronze at best? Best possible scenario is if him and the  competitors above him place in reverse order in the lead, he gets 24 x 1 = 24, Duffy gets 20 x 2 = 40, Lopez gets 7 x 3 = 21, Coleman gets 6 x 4 = 24 Narasaki gets 6 x 5 = 30?

What happens in the even of tied scores? Whoever gets highest place in 1 event?
 


GraemeA

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1885
  • Karma: +80/-6
  • FTM
    • The Works, it's the Bollocks
What happens in the even of tied scores? Whoever gets highest place in 1 event?

There's a million and one methods to break ties with the ultimate one being the seeding.

crimpinainteasy

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 123
  • Karma: +2/-0
I hope Nathaniel or Alberto win!

User deactivated.

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1262
  • Karma: +87/-1
What happens in the even of tied scores? Whoever gets highest place in 1 event?

There's a million and one methods to break ties with the ultimate one being the seeding.

Hardest outdoor redpoint

Catcheemonkey

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 127
  • Karma: +10/-0
For those without Eurosport, the Bouldering is currently (13:26) being shown on the BBC red button.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29579
  • Karma: +643/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
What happens in the even of tied scores? Whoever gets highest place in 1 event?

There's a million and one methods to break ties with the ultimate one being the seeding.

So how high up they qualified?

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29579
  • Karma: +643/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
What happens in the even of tied scores? Whoever gets highest place in 1 event?

There's a million and one methods to break ties with the ultimate one being the seeding.

Hardest outdoor redpoint

Number of hardest routes in the world climbed seems fair.

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1589
  • Karma: +124/-11
Fucking get in Alberto my son

crimpinainteasy

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 123
  • Karma: +2/-0
It's all on Jakob!!!!!!!!!!

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1589
  • Karma: +124/-11
I'm sure Coleman will be so pleased with his teammate Duffy knocking him down a lead spot into third hahaha

RobK

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 305
  • Karma: +14/-0
If Ondra wins lead, Duffy/Schubert come 2nd/3rd and Gines-Lopez comes 4th, then Ondra would get gold.......IT COULD STILL HAPPEN FOLKS.

This could actually happen! Allez Jakob.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8171
  • Karma: +661/-121
    • Unknown Stones
Jesus. If Schubert beats everyone but Ondra, Ondra will get Gold. I can't cope.
Sorry if someone has already said this.

I'm an absolute bag of nerves.

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1589
  • Karma: +124/-11
This is actually dead exciting tbh!

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1589
  • Karma: +124/-11
Crikey

GraemeA

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1885
  • Karma: +80/-6
  • FTM
    • The Works, it's the Bollocks
That was exciting

RobK

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 305
  • Karma: +14/-0
If Ondra wins lead, Duffy/Schubert come 2nd/3rd and Gines-Lopez comes 4th, then Ondra would get gold.......IT COULD STILL HAPPEN FOLKS.

This could actually happen! Allez Jakob.

Too much allez.

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3105
  • Karma: +173/-4
Ondra from first to 6th in about 5 seconds. Poor bastard!

galpinos

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2183
  • Karma: +88/-1
Wow! That was brilliant.

(Turns out Ondra's bye wasn't enough of an advantage  :worms:)

Stu Littlefair

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1861
  • Karma: +287/-2
    • http://www.darkpeakimages.co.uk
Well, that escalated quickly. Amazing finish!

Somebody's Fool

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1053
  • Karma: +124/-6
Schubert pissed that! Brilliant finale.

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8171
  • Karma: +661/-121
    • Unknown Stones
The gold medal has gone to the 5th fastest speed climber, the worst boulderer, and the 4th best lead climber.

Take a bow, Sport Climbing!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal