[User deactivated.]

I'm hoping the route setters will go rogue and provide a full set of old school crimp ladders for the finals on disgusting razor edges.

[Durbs]

I'm hoping the route setters will go rogue and provide a full set of old school crimp ladders for the finals on disgusting razor edges.

They've already stuck in a hand-jam which was excellent to see - and no run-and-jumps either.

[fatneck]

Discovery+ app saying it doesn't start for another 30 minutes?

[remus]

Also, Ondra's used up his hand jam problem get-out-of-jail-free-card. Seems unlikely that there will be another crack in the final and more likely that there will be a crowd-pleaser paddle dyno or parkour thing that will favour Tomoa.

You never know, maybe this is the year they turn it up a notch and whip out some nasty thin hands through a roof to start off the lead route 

[teestub]

I thought that lots of the climbers seemed quite nervy yesterday. Notably, Ondra and Tomoa didn't look to be moving well, especially in the lead.

Totally, there was a quote from Tomoa saying he was feeling the pressure of climbing at home and wanting to make climbing more popular in Japan. Really felt for him when he badly fluffed that clip.

I’m not sure whether some of the poor looking movement is also down to the heat and humidity combined with all the massive slopey holds on the lead, must be hard to move confidently with that combo!

[Duma]

Do we have confirmation of whether Ondra or Tomoa will get a bye for the first speed round? Could well decide the gold.

Also am I right in thinking there's only 3 problems for the bouldering in finals?

[ali k]

Someone needs to tell them they were getting Tomoa Narasaki’s name wrong (back to front) before the final…

And how many times are we gonna hear that the shoes are “two sizes too small” over the next three days? That’s why it needs to be climbers commentating instead of just any old loudmouth who’s learned a bit of trivia about the sport. There’s only so many times you can repeat what’s written in front of you over the course of about 20hrs of commentary.

[galpinos]

FYI slightly different commentating team today for the womens'. Still Jonny Bryan but different co-commentator and I think they have received some "feedback" so should change today.

[Duma]

UKC report says Ondra will get a bye, so at worst 4th in speed

[James Malloch]

Are there other Boulder/lead combined competitions? If so how do they score them?

If you used the same multiplying method, but removed the speed results, then you end up only switching Megos and Bassa in the top 8, the rest would be the same.

[Wellsy]

UKC report says Ondra will get a bye, so at worst 4th in speed

That bye is going to get him on the podium

Megos will not be happy I imagine. Or maybe he will, cos now he gets to go bouldering.

[36chambers]

UKC report says Ondra will get a bye, so at worst 4th in speed

This is such a joke.

I wonder if Ondra would actually feel unfulfilled if he wins but only due to this speed circumstance. 

[SA Chris]

Forget to add: Nice route-setting? No tops in lead, good split in bouldering - thought they'd overcooked M2 but it saw some action (although we didn't get to see it...)

Bouldering - every prob got topped, no-one topped everything, looks like it was a good set. Likewise lead - a few people got close to the top, but none topped out, and most people fell in different places. Setting in speed looked a bit strange though, lots of holds not used

Ondra must have been grateful for the time he put in at Indian Creek.

[fatneck]

Shauna 16th after Speed. Based on the men's scores, it looks like she's going to need a top 3 finish to stand a chance going in to the finals?

[36chambers]

UKC report says Ondra will get a bye, so at worst 4th in speed

This is such a joke.

I wonder if Ondra would actually feel unfulfilled if he wins but only due to this speed circumstance. 

The obvious solution is to tear everyone's left bicep and let them compete as usual.

[gme]

UKC report says Ondra will get a bye, so at worst 4th in speed

This is such a joke.

I wonder if Ondra would actually feel unfulfilled if he wins but only due to this speed circumstance.

Its exactly how it works in every other event in the olympics, and most sports in all events.

[galpinos]

Its exactly how it works in every other event in the olympics, and most sports in all events.

I think it feels "wrong" as he got injured in competition so normally would "beaten" by the uninjured athlete in qualifying but in this case, due to the scoring system, he'd already qualified. Normally, the bye comes from people pulling out "between rounds".

I think it's a shame as it does give AO a massive advantage but I can understand the decision.

[SA Chris]

Bassa is on IG with his arm in a sling, almost certainly out.

[fatneck]

If W1 was the hardest problem, this is going to a walk over for the better competitors!

[galpinos]

Great to see Miho on form in speed. Is W1 the hardest? I think W2 in the heat might be tricky, hard to know till some of the better boulders come out....

Exciting!

[galpinos]

I think W2 in the heat might be tricky.....

Or maybe not!

[Hoseyb]

Turned off the commentary, had a giggle when I realised that they were playing "enjoy the silence" in the background

[spidermonkey09]

UKC report says Ondra will get a bye, so at worst 4th in speed

This is such a joke.

I wonder if Ondra would actually feel unfulfilled if he wins but only due to this speed circumstance.

Its exactly how it works in every other event in the olympics, and most sports in all events.

Exactly. The draw has been made and you don't redo the whole draw when someone pulls out at Wimbledon, whether they are injured before the tournament starts or halfway through. It's just luck, which is a key element of all competitive sport.

[fatneck]

Meshkova super impressive on W4!! Which incidentally looks like the hardest problem by far...

[Somebody's Fool]

UKC report says Ondra will get a bye, so at worst 4th in speed

This is such a joke.

I wonder if Ondra would actually feel unfulfilled if he wins but only due to this speed circumstance.

Its exactly how it works in every other event in the olympics, and most sports in all events.

Exactly. The draw has been made and you don't redo the whole draw when someone pulls out at Wimbledon, whether they are injured before the tournament starts or halfway through. It's just luck, which is a key element of all competitive sport.

Apart from having a bit more rest, a bye in Wimbledon becomes pretty much irrelevant once the next match starts. Not really the case here though is it? Especially with Ondra’s speed pedigree.

Isn’t this in a different league of jamminess compared to byes in other sports?