I found in a lot of older videos I would readjust my grip position quite often, bouncing around on holds, which just wasted time and energy.
Good question.Advice I had years ago on this, to give a ballpark idea of your weakness, was - 'why, specifically, did you fail?' You can pigeonhole why you failed into broad categories for the purpose of identifying weakness.I couldn't do the move(s) because I was too pumped.I couldn't do the move(s) because I wasn't strong enough in my fingers/shoulders/biceps.I couldn't do the move(s) because my core/tension/chain couldn't hold my foot/hip/shoulder in the most efficient position required.I couldn't do the move(s) because I wasn't flexible enough.I couldn't do the move(s) because I was too nervous of committing due to fear (of falling, of failure, of injury)Those are the most common five reasons for failing on any climb/boulder. Obvs there are different reasons within the categories, for e.g. you might be 'too pumped', but the reason might not actually be fitness it might be you're gripping too tightly and learning relaxation on every hold results in less pump. Or you might be weak in a chain of tension due to injury. Not flexible enough due to scar tissue build-up. Etc.My biggest weakness is laziness.
I think that does make sense, but I do also think it's relatively tricky to actually know why you couldn't do the climb. Or rather; to correctly identify why, rather than misidentify. Are your fingers too weak? Or are you just bad at getting your weight on your toes? One may feel like the other. I think that's the hard part. Correctly working out what you are crap at.
Quote from: Wellsy on July 15, 2021, 06:53:18 pmI think that does make sense, but I do also think it's relatively tricky to actually know why you couldn't do the climb. Or rather; to correctly identify why, rather than misidentify. Are your fingers too weak? Or are you just bad at getting your weight on your toes? One may feel like the other. I think that's the hard part. Correctly working out what you are crap at.In that example, the solution doesn't really require knowing which one is the weakness. Climb lots of stuff with small holds and it will train both.
Quote from: Liamhutch89 on July 15, 2021, 08:39:15 pmQuote from: Wellsy on July 15, 2021, 06:53:18 pmI think that does make sense, but I do also think it's relatively tricky to actually know why you couldn't do the climb. Or rather; to correctly identify why, rather than misidentify. Are your fingers too weak? Or are you just bad at getting your weight on your toes? One may feel like the other. I think that's the hard part. Correctly working out what you are crap at.In that example, the solution doesn't really require knowing which one is the weakness. Climb lots of stuff with small holds and it will train both.Sure, but fingerboarding won't, for example. I just think it seems tricky to do in my (limited) experience, is all.
Actually, fingerboarding might get you there anyway - i'm sure this will be an unpopular opinion, but as time goes on I further subscribe to the belief that hard bouldering is 90% finger strength and then the rest can share the remaining 10%... The correlation between my max hang score and max redpoint grade has been spookily strong over the last few years!
Quote from: Liamhutch89 on July 15, 2021, 11:07:09 pmActually, fingerboarding might get you there anyway - i'm sure this will be an unpopular opinion, but as time goes on I further subscribe to the belief that hard bouldering is 90% finger strength and then the rest can share the remaining 10%... The correlation between my max hang score and max redpoint grade has been spookily strong over the last few years!This is your n=1 caused by (as iI understand) starting from a position of having a strong body and relatively weak fingers innit, your example of identifying your limiting factor. You can easily imagine an alternative where someone’s starting position was strong fingers but weak arms, and their correlation between weighted pull up score and grade might become quite good!
Quote from: teestub on July 16, 2021, 07:01:16 amQuote from: Liamhutch89 on July 15, 2021, 11:07:09 pmActually, fingerboarding might get you there anyway - i'm sure this will be an unpopular opinion, but as time goes on I further subscribe to the belief that hard bouldering is 90% finger strength and then the rest can share the remaining 10%... The correlation between my max hang score and max redpoint grade has been spookily strong over the last few years!This is your n=1 caused by (as iI understand) starting from a position of having a strong body and relatively weak fingers innit, your example of identifying your limiting factor. You can easily imagine an alternative where someone’s starting position was strong fingers but weak arms, and their correlation between weighted pull up score and grade might become quite good!You're spot on for my case, but I think it holds true more often than not. Sure, there will be exceptions (in terms of individuals and specific boulder problems), but generally, finger strength appears to be the limiting factor, at least for climbers who I know. Those with stronger fingers than me usually climb harder, and those with weaker fingers usually climb less hard.At the top level there's Giuliano Cameroni who bouldered 8C+ before he could do a one arm pullup. I bet every 8C+ ascensionist could hang an edge with one arm though! Consider an imaginary person who has never climbed before, and they have average athleticism, coordination, etc., but for some reason they can 1 arm a Lattice rung. I bet they could climb 8A within a year! Maybe i'm way off on all this but i'm just saying what I see! Note: i'm purposely sticking to bouldering here as I don't know anything about the territory that comes after 10 moves!
You're spot on for my case, but I think it holds true more often than not. Sure, there will be exceptions (in terms of individuals and specific boulder problems), but generally, finger strength appears to be the limiting factor, at least for climbers who I know. Those with stronger fingers than me usually climb harder, and those with weaker fingers usually climb less hard.
Conversely, there are a lot of people who can hang tiny edges with big weights, yet they can only get up mid 7s
You can provide lattice with your data here: https://latticetraining.com/my-fingers/Apparently I am much weaker than expected to be climbing 7b or V4 with my 116% bodyweight finger strength. Discussion amongst friends (not all grey power candidates) suggests this is a common report. I think the lattice sample population must be biased towards inexperienced training fanatics who are over-strong for their grade. Or peak lime denizens. Or perhaps it is commercially useful to overestimate the finger strength required as writing an "individualised" fingerboarding programme to address this weakness must take about 3 seconds! ( )
18kgs added weight on a 10mm edge for ten seconds
If what you say is true then what i'm saying is clearly wrong, but i'm yet to see anyone 1 arm a lattice rung and then max out at 7B on rock. Are there really lots of people who can do this?