[r-man]

Is it just me, or is the left side of the arete (given B7) actually easier than the right side (given B5)? Flashed the left hand but the right hurt my feet and I gave up (I've been told since not to climb it like a crack).

..I take it you are allowed to use the crack in both versions (I guess without the crack it would be a lot harder, but then it would be an eliminate and surely not worthy of it's 3 star status).

[account_inactive]

me thinks that someone is not using their feet properly :roll:

[r-man]

..fair comment. I'd just previously been persuaded to put on a rope and second some crack - so I was in full frog legs mode, which clearly isn't the way to climb technical master! Bit daft of me really.

...But the left side still felt a bit easy for B7. I mean, what are the other classics of that grade? Gorilla Warfare, Green Traverse (to name the only two I know quite well!)- both miles harder.

Come to think of it, Stretch Armstrong was another B7 that seemed like a complete walkover compared to the B7 oppposite the path on the spring boulders (took me ages, and destroyed both my tips and my shoes). Maybe B7 is just a funny grade. Or maybe the Peak bouldering guide is just a funny book!

[Jim]

Peak bouldering guide is just a funny book!

word to that....
although I can't knock it that much as I've had a lot of use out of mine

[r-man]

although I can't knock it that much as I've had a lot of use out of mine

Yeah me too. Was it the first guide to have tickboxes? Fantastic idea. There's a satsifying resolution to putting pen to paper upon completion of a problem. Even if there's a shit looking B0, the temptation to get the tick wins me over every time. And the fact that it's in the book means there is a challenge there, no matter how small, whereas I would probably never climb some bits of rock if they weren't pointed out to me.

Yeah the grading is often a bit out, but it is pretty comprehensive, and it must have guided so many people to so much fun over the years. Think I'm coming over all teary like.  :crying:

[dave]

the trick i found to go from not being about to touch tech masta to doing it in a couple of goes was to almost try ti one handed. i found bringing right hand over to arete low down soemhow fucked me up, so don't tough the arete with Right hand until just before you go for the top jug. instead just put right hand on a crack hold for balance, and work left hadn up the arete as if you were doing it one-handed.

[webbo]

no wonder you find green traverse hard for b7 it's graded b8 in the cocfax.

[Johnny Brown]

Wowzer. Listen to dave- he speak technical truths. It's almost easier one-handed. The clue is in the name.
The lefthand side is harder than the right, but probly not B7. Technically simpler but much mo powerfo.

[r-man]

Yeah the one handed version does sound much easier. Was there a coupla weeks ago and would have tried it again but my left arm is injured. However a friend of mine did do most of it with his left arm on the rock and his right hand on his nose, in the classic so there! gesture...

As for the green traverse, I was referring to the short version, not the sitstart from the slopers (I know there has been some disagreement about names so I thought I'd keep it simple. Alas, still confusion..)

Anyway, I'll try it one handed next time, cheers for that..

[dave]

the short green traverse is B7 in the juidebook.

[webbo]

short green traverse in t'book is called dope on etc.iwas ouoting grades as written not reality. :wink:

[dave]

aye, but whatever its called the short is B7 (logically, or it'd be harder than the extension  :roll: )

[Mr.Fontainebleau!]

Whats the top of technical master defined as? Do u have to go up the ramp to get off (and if so where do u get off?), or is it job done when you've got the finishing hold at the top of the arete?
cheers

[Gad]

I was always told i had to top it out, so i did. There are two ways, i believe:
1) get the jug on the arete with right hand and swing round the arete before rocking over for the top
2) get jug with LH do some wierd shit and finish direct.
i know some people have done version 1 then reversed that B3 thing but that just seems like myther!

Thats my knowledge anyway, some one will probably come along and tell you i'm wrong, but what the hey :wink:

[Fiend]

Whats the top of technical master defined as? Do u have to go up the ramp to get off (and if so where do u get off?), or is it job done when you've got the finishing hold at the top of the arete?
cheers

 :shock:  :roll:  

[r-man]

I didn't go to the top, and I was happy to tick it. The problem (as in, the difficult bit) is over once you reach the big handhold, though it just depends what sort of glory you're after... :wink:

[dave]

when i did it, i got to the jug, then worked up left to the top of the layback, then downclimbed that. i had no spotter though and mat was round other side of arete.

[sharkey]

Do you really need to plant a flag on the summit, after all it's a boulder problem, i bailed out at the jug too- thinking it all over.

[Nigel]

Its only a tick if you top out.

Then solo Blind Bat.

Then down solo Great Arete.

Then jump off Edge Lane.

[hongkongstuey]

Do you really need to plant a flag on the summit, after all it's a boulder problem, i bailed out at the jug too- thinking it all over.

the simple answer: yes - ok, the moves after the jug are nowhere near as technical as before but they're still part of the problem (and the scramble to the top after and back round the side isn't really that much hassle in order to tick one the Peaks most classic problems is it?)

stopping at the jug is akin to just doing the first move of Not To Be Taken Away - the rest is a path after all.......

[Mr.Fontainebleau!]

Cheers, thats kind of what I figured, you really need to top out for the proper tick, jus turns it into a bit of a mini highball.

Oh and 'Fiend' :roll: