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Black Tufa - Anston
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Black Tufa - Anston
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rsp123
newbie
Posts: 7
Karma: +0/-0
Black Tufa - Anston
March 13, 2021, 07:35:20 pm
Does anyone have any beta or videos for this? Really can't work out the start at all.
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submaximal gains
player
Posts: 108
Karma: +9/-0
#1 Re: Black Tufa - Anston
March 13, 2021, 07:40:44 pm
See the previous thread
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23955.msg442406
.
I've looked at it and been baffled. The only video seems to be this, in which it is done incorrectly as the plinth is definitely out
https://youtu.be/uarjFzatPmo?t=75
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r-man
forum hero
Glory lurks beneath the moss
Posts: 5030
Karma: +193/-3
#2 Re: Black Tufa - Anston
March 13, 2021, 08:31:23 pm
I don't know this problem, but Dolph told me...put the pad on the ledge/plinth. Sit with the left foot on the back wall, right on an edge up and right. Pull up, drop a knee and dyno to the jug.
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Bradders
forum hero
Posts: 2820
Karma: +136/-3
#3 Re: Black Tufa - Anston
March 13, 2021, 08:43:27 pm
I fall off the end of the link into Dark Art in this vid:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BUDBBIiBGmX/?igshid=1aefvmrmeyeng
Different angle:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BR1WAZCBzMO/?igshid=rmefmfp0tyb2
r-man is right, pad on the plinth, sit on it, take the black tufa pinch hold as an undercut with your right hand, left on some nothingness a little higher. Left toe on the start hold of Dark Art, right smearing down on some choss. Pull on, pull up and slap. Imagine it'll be a big old move if you're short!
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Wood FT
forum hero
Posts: 2957
Karma: +162/-8
#4 Re: Black Tufa - Anston
March 13, 2021, 08:49:49 pm
A mate did the link out of it last night and used the tufa for the left hand and a slopey crimp (reservation foothold) for the right hand. left foot low and a big old slap to cut-loose. Absolutely desperate if you’re short. it looks like a bus ride away getting out to the lip when you’re sat down. I’ll try Bradders beta next time
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abarro81
forum hero
Posts: 4328
Karma: +349/-26
#5 Re: Black Tufa - Anston
March 13, 2021, 10:31:58 pm
I do it as Guy says - big jump over with rh. Feels very hard after a season of fingerboard and very easy after a season of flicky board climbing!
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rsp123
newbie
Posts: 7
Karma: +0/-0
#6 Re: Black Tufa - Anston
March 14, 2021, 11:47:32 am
Thanks for the replies. I will try those methods next time
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