[tim palmer]

What makes grit special?

British exceptionalism and a desperation to think we live somewhere less shit than it is?

In light of the objections, I'll rephrase my earlier statement to

"Things on grit that are actually fun to climb"

Yes

[tim palmer]

Back on topic I thought like a hurricane had some fun quite sustained climbing on it. 

[Will Hunt]

Do you think you find it harder because it isn't significantly easier if you are over 5'10"? 

I'll bow out now as it's all a bit off-topic but suffice to say that I suspect you think my grade views are more extreme than they actually are. Don't believe the hype - there really aren't many problems that I think are drastically easier than the given grade where there hasn't been a significant beta change or cleaning etc. In most cases there are others who are of the same opinion (Nez, Nathan Lee, and probably others in the case of HiyH).

Also, I'd love to see that list of problems that are significantly easier if you are over 5'10". All I ask is that we compile a list of all the problems that are harder if you're over 5'10" (i.e. every other boulder problem in existence).

[Bonjoy]

Well now, i've heard these all time classics fit the bill quite well:
Leathered 7b+ - Roaches
Broke Beak Mountain 7c+ - Howshaw
Rubble Rouser 7c+ - Eastweed
Trill Seeker 8a - Bradley (and all the other stuff on the face)

[teestub]

Was gonna say after watching a few vids that your Bradley opus seemed to fit the ‘bill’. Watched Molly’s vid on pinch punch that looked particularly sustained

[Bradders]

Trying to steer away from discussion of grades; what we're after are those problems that don't fit the "one / two conditions dependent moves". I think technical problems are actually okay as long as it's a sustained series of technical moves, e.g. Duel would 100% fit the bill. In that sense I can see where Will is coming from with HIYH, whereas Lay By Arete is very much a one-mover. But neither of them are really what I was thinking about.

At a more amenable grade; Crusis at the Cliff would fit. No really hard moves but quite a few of them back to back.

Trill Seeker looks amazing Jon, can't wait to try that when we're allowed to travel again.

[jamesturnbull97]

Thinking of the harder side of things, the only one I am guessing might fit besides The Boss is Lanny Bassham, based on what people have told me about it.

Yes, the meat of Lanny is 5 or so hard moves in a row

Back on topic I thought like a hurricane had some fun quite sustained climbing on it. 

I'll second that, both Hurricane and Omega are pretty sustained and psychical (i.e You're actually pulling on holds) the whole way through.

[remus]

 

Rubble Rouser 7c+ - Eastweed

I've only had a session on it and haven't done it, but isn't there a big juggy knee on this before you start the hard climbing at the end?

[TobyD]

Westworld?

[teestub]

Were you thinking of Western Eyes?

[Bonjoy]

Rubble Rouser 7c+ - Eastweed

I've only had a session on it and haven't done it, but isn't there a big juggy knee on this before you start the hard climbing at the end?

True. Two pitches of sustained climbing with a camp out on a knee in the middle

[BrutusTheBear]

Does Inertia Reel Traverse fit the bill?  Loads of conditions dependent moves, rather than 1 or 2 conditions dependent moves.  It's certainly very sustained.

[TobyD]

Were you thinking of Western Eyes?

Yes, I was!

[Bradders]

From another thread I was reminded of Tetris. No specific crux moves really but quite a few of a similar difficulty stacked together.

At the same crag The Darkest Cloud looks very sustained.

[mrjonathanr]

eatswood traverse
Green Traverse at the Plantation
Many things preceding the word ‘traverse’ frankly

[Will Hunt]

Shall we just ignore traverses? Just seems like stating the obvious.

[Bradders]

Yes I reckon so. Although something like Keelhaul would still fit.

[nai]

Shall we just ignore traverses? Just seems like stating the obvious.

Although eatswood traverse doesn't totally climb like a traverse, meat of it is steep stuff out of the cave and roof climbing along the lip, it's not just falling sideways.

[Fiend]

What makes grit special?

British exceptionalism and a desperation to think we live somewhere less shit than it is?

Well that's pure bollox and belongs to the same UKC debate as "grit is amazing because foreigners can't climb it". OTOH, this is partly true:

Having to sand down your finger tips after every go, getting scrittle in your eye, dramatic grade changes whenever a cloud appears or disappears.

But seriously. Amazing lines, beautiful aesthetics, pure features, pure friction climbing, slopers, smears, pebbles, climbing that is improbable until you have the faith, climbing that is comparably brilliant from the very easiest to the very hardest grades. Sure it's not the only amazing climbing in the world and maybe not the most amazing (Font?) but it is genuinely good and special - and I'd suggest that 90% of the "problems" with gritstone are actually just problems with British weather (barrows is of course right that that IS shit).

Sometimes I take a weird, detached mental step back and look at the gritstone edges and boulders through an outsider's eye, inadvertently imagining I'm new to the area or indeed new to the country, and it really strikes me how brilliant it can be.

Disclaimer and caveat: Natural grit is not my personal favourite rock for bouldering nor routes.
 

Back on topic - good topic. I concur with Will that traverses are maybe the least interesting suggestions, and with Bradders that problems that are not solely pumpy, but perhaps just very continuous and consistent are also worthy candidates. Would something like Ulysses as a highball fit the bill?? At a lower height, lower grade, but sticking with the "Bonjoy Matlock Area Hidden Gems" theme, I found Peaches and Crust pretty continuous, no one hard move but several hardish ones in a row.

[teestub]

Have you been to Switzerland Fiend? It had pretty much everything you’ve listed, except the pebbles.

[haydn jones]

From another thread I was reminded of Tetris. No specific crux moves really but quite a few of a similar difficulty stacked together.

At the same crag The Darkest Cloud looks very sustained.

My Boulder, Daedalus 7C , nearby to Tetris is powerful sustained roof climbing, don't think its had a repeat yet.

[Fiend]

Have you been to Switzerland Fiend? It had pretty much everything you’ve listed, except the pebbles.

No I haven't, I've seen plenty of footage tho and it does look good, although not quite as distinctive from what I've seen (then again that might be due to higher difficulty footage of basically Swiss versions of The Boss / this entire thread, rather than version of Crescent Arete and Spring Slab). I'd be keen to go, I might miss the pebbles tho.

[mrjonathanr]

From another thread I was reminded of Tetris. No specific crux moves really but quite a few of a similar difficulty stacked together.

At the same crag The Darkest Cloud looks very sustained.

My Boulder, Daedalus 7C , nearby to Tetris is powerful sustained roof climbing, don't think its had a repeat yet.

Where is this Haydn?

[Bonjoy]

It's the cave/roof start to Icarus Allsorts, which is on the rhs of the Apaloosa Sunset wall. Looks really good to me.

[mrjonathanr]

Right you are, thanks Bonjoy. IA is on the ticklist anyway, suitably chosen name by Haydn.