W. AM Had a play on the fingerboard moving between the slots. Found it harder than campusing edges as you need to be more accurate getting your fingers in the slots. Also seemed harder when moving back down slots. Managed 5 moves (4 up, 1 down) a few times timing 3 secs per move. Surprisingly fun and much harder than I thought it would be. Works shoulders too. Seemed like a good exercise. T. Two goes up Tin Of with rests. Rock felt glassy and I felt awful. Felt knackered and glum about my woeful endurance. Third go with cloud cover redpointed it! WTF? Fourth go did with a few rests. Felt absolutely destroyed.
Then round to Unknown Wall for some gentle trad up Desecrator HVS which was fantastic, belaying in the sun looking out to Portishead was very good for the soul. Board session at home after, unsurprisingly bit tired but still managed to try hard.
I really like these little sequences on the fb, adds so much interest for me which is key for the motivation. And nice one busting out tin of from nowhere.
Great to get my nemesis project done finally
This time I managed to climb to the top despite a desperate hand adjustment on the last hard move. Good to finally put this to bed! This route has taken me more tries than any other 8a+.
S - AM: Warm up at home then back on the nemesis 8a+ project. Felt good on the moves again and the skin on my tips was holding up a bit better this time. Someone from the Austrian team was also trying the route which was the first time I had ever seen anyone else trying it. It was good to see that there wasn't some trick I was missing and that the route is just hard. Having seen this girl boulder indoors, she has power to burn but the route was also giving her a hard time. After falling on the last hard move and exchanging goes I had one final attempt which was more to get my draws out as my tips were already weeping. Somehow I got though the lower crux but I felt much fresher at the halfway point where the route leaves the 7c+ exit. This time I managed to climb to the top despite a desperate hand adjustment on the last hard move. Good to finally put this to bed! This route has taken me more tries than any other 8a+. The grading is strange as the hardest part is the lower wall which is shared with a 7c+ meaning it would have been the longest a 7c+ had ever taken me as well if I had taken that exit! It felt every bit at least 8b to me but nobody else seems to think so on 8a.nu so I guess the locals are just too strong! PM: NG PE session 3 sets (0.75 units).
W/C 22/2/21Work on locks. Start at full lock for 3x30 seconds wearing 10k vest and am really quite surprised to do it, although I am trying quite hard it’s safe to say. Go on to do the same at 90° and 120°, which get progressively less difficult at lower angles but remains pretty tough.
Well done! Do you think the company on the route that day gave you a bit of a boost? Either by way of friendly competition or just a validation that you had the 'right' sequence and so could focus your attention?
Th - Lamp sesh at St Ives. Had a go on Gritty Shaker but connies didn't feel great. Wouldn't mind seeing Liam's photo if the link can be made to work, though not sure I'll make the span if it's what I think it is. We bailed to the Amphitheatre and did the remainder of the obvious lines (bar the hard thing). Skin was pretty worse for wear by the end which was a shame.