[abarro81]

when i do two armed shrugs it feels like there’s much more motion - I’ve no mirror though so just going on what it feels like though.

I think this is normal - it's the same for me

[tomtom]

when i do two armed shrugs it feels like there’s much more motion - I’ve no mirror though so just going on what it feels like though.

I think this is normal - it's the same for me

Cool. Cheers Alex.

[Yossarian]

2 weeks

M -Th: Tail end of gluttony, excessive wine consumption. A couple of walks.
F: Beach walk with the kids
S: FB benchmarking. Hadn't done any proper hanging since overzealous first sessions back at the wall early Dec. At a porky 103kg my BM middle slot 1/2 crimp has climbed to 93.5kg total, and 88.5kg on 3 finger drag. Also did some timing of longest 2 hand 1/2 crimp, etc.
S: Muddy walk with kids, plus yoga, core and stretching

M: 7km run / assisted 1 arms, various other pull-ups, weights, rings, assisted levers, and 10:5 repeaters
T: Long muddy walk / had intended stretching and core but felt worn out. A few goes on 45deeg slopers which I've never been able to hang at home. Need to replicate multiple sweaty / greasy hands that the wall ones receive.
W: 8km run / max hangs / aero repeaters (misjudged the assistance at the start and paid with a lot more pump than I'd intended)
T: Seafront walk / yoga / stretch and core
F: 8km run / assisted 1 arm / various other weights inc Z-press (thought these were great), assisted levers, ring stuff, core inc ab roller
S: Seafront walk / various press-ups and other bodyweight stuff, bit of core, etc
S: Long walk (3.5hrs), yoga, core / ab roll, and stretching

Lost about 3kg so far. I love this time of year - it's so easy to stay motivated, partly because I know from bitter experience that, if I don't drop the kgs now / maintain some abstinence, etc it's much less likely to happen later in the year.

[Nibile]

Power Club
Mon - weights.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board. Heavy, bad skin, had fun. Power is good, but volume is very bad. Lu raises, full body squat.
Thu - snatch rack pulls, TB DL x5 + farmer's up to 1', x5, 1' rests.
Fri - rest.
Sat - wheel 4', loaded carries 4', lunges, x3.
Sun - boxing bag 6 rounds. Hill sprints.

[Bradders]

Pretty classic "everyone tell Shark why he's wrong about training" thread this. Everyone has played their parts well, and two for the price of one as well!! 8/10, would recommend.

Just to add my tuppence regarding "max" hangs. One of the key principles of strength training is progressive overload, gradually increasing intensity to stimulate a neurological or muscular response. If you're constantly trying to train at your 1 rep max, how would you ever achieve this? You've no room to progress it week to week.

Regarding shoulder stuff; general shoulder strength and health is just obviously important for climbing longevity, let alone performance, you only need to look at the number of climbers who've had very serious shoulder injuries to see that!

[shark]

Checked my records and in just over 12 months I’ve gone from a half crimp max hang of +22.5kg to +32.5kg for 6 secs (can hold more full crimp and drag) on the 16mm ergo edge  which represents an increase of my overall finger strength by 12.6% which I reckon for a mid 50’s climber who has continually pushed themselves for 37 years yet always struggled to make strength gains is pretty good going.

[Will Hunt]

Checked my records and in just over 12 months I’ve gone from a half crimp max hang of +22.5kg to +32.5kg for 6 secs (can hold more full crimp and drag) on the 16mm ergo edge  which represents an increase of my overall finger strength by 12.6% which I reckon for a mid 50’s climber who has continually pushed themselves for 37 years yet always struggled to make strength gains is pretty good going.

I know Power Club is more about improving training stats than getting better at climbing outside, but how would you say this has transferred to rock? That's a massive % increase. Do you feel stronger on things like Ben's than you did before?

(Genuine question. Not a hidden dig.)

[shark]

I know Power Club is more about improving training stats than getting better at climbing outside, but how would you say this has transferred to rock? That's a massive % increase. Do you feel stronger on things like Ben's than you did before?

(Genuine question. Not a hidden dig.)

Yes. Much stronger even though I’m weighing heavy. Especially noticeable on the hardest move holding the crimp

[Duma]

Checked my records and in just over 12 months I’ve gone from a half crimp max hang of +22.5kg to +32.5kg for 6 secs (can hold more full crimp and drag) on the 16mm ergo edge  which represents an increase of my overall finger strength by 12.6% which I reckon for a mid 50’s climber who has continually pushed themselves for 37 years yet always struggled to make strength gains is pretty good going.

This is a great effort- knew you were at pb recently but hadn't realised by how much! As you say, all the more impressive as one gets older.

[36chambers]

Cheers everyone for the Is, Ys, and Ts, chat. I finally got round to setting up my rings this evening and have just had a great session doing them

[tomtom]

Cheers everyone for the Is, Ys, and Ts, chat. I finally got round to setting up my rings this evening and have just had a great session doing them

I did the same. I am feeble though. Managed 5 reps facing each way - at Probably a fairly easy angle. Ts easy facing up, well hard facing down. I’s the other way around.

Cheers for the advice and offline messages.

Really hard to stop arching my back though...

[shark]

This is a great effort- knew you were at pb recently but hadn't realised by how much! As you say, all the more impressive as one gets older.

Thanks Duma. Hope it helps me tick some of my growing list of outstanding projects this year. Pretty hacked off that I didn’t get any ticks last year despite feeling stronger than ever.

[AMorris]

Ts easy facing up, well hard facing down.

That's interesting. What angles were you at? I find T's facing down far easier than up, I can bash out 5 sets of 5, nose 6 inches off the deck facing down fairly happily, but facing up I am basically stood bolt upright T posing at the top of the movement! I find them way harder and can't start anything close to low on them. My rear delts need some work.

[teestub]

I did the same. I am feeble though. Managed 5 reps facing each way - at Probably a fairly easy angle. Ts easy facing up, well hard facing down. I’s the other way around.

With T’s facing up it’s key to keep your elbows completely locked, as soon as you use some bicep it becomes way easier but is no longer targeting what you want in the shoulders.

[Nibile]

Manage to do 3x12 abs roller reps off my feet,

I'm interested in this: 3x12 is a lot off the feet, jow do you do them?
Slight posterior tilt, ok, but locked spine and move off the shoulders or the opposite?
And, how deep do you go to the ground?

[gollum]

Manage to do 3x12 abs roller reps off my feet,

I'm interested in this: 3x12 is a lot off the feet, jow do you do them?
Slight posterior tilt, ok, but locked spine and move off the shoulders or the opposite?
And, how deep do you go to the ground?

I’ve just had to do this to see what I am doing. Feet are about 18-24 inches apart and roll out so that forearms and forehead touch the ground. There is a very slight tilt at the bottom of the rep and seems to be that shoulders are locked throughout.

[Nibile]

Brilliant stuff.
 

[spidermonkey09]

I can bash out 5 sets of 5, nose 6 inches off the deck facing down fairly happily

Fuck me, is this normal?! I have never got remotely close to this. I can't extend the length of the TRX without a lot of faff though so have never really changed the length of the rope - I just shuffle my feet to adjust the angle instead. Is this wrong?

Given that I constructed my "TRX" from rolled up copies of the British Medical Journal and old rope in the first lockdown I'm willing to cut myself some slack but would be good to know what the actual correct protocol is.

[nai]

Couldn't do it at the moment but when I'm able to train properly I'd expect to be about there.
Ts and Ys that is, not quite as strong on Is.
Nothing like that facing up though, actually started doing some with bands as well as on the TRX I'm almost stood up at top of the movement so hardly any resistance at that point.

[User deactivated.]

I can bash out 5 sets of 5, nose 6 inches off the deck facing down fairly happily

Fuck me, is this normal?! I have never got remotely close to this. I can't extend the length of the TRX without a lot of faff though so have never really changed the length of the rope - I just shuffle my feet to adjust the angle instead. Is this wrong?

Given that I constructed my "TRX" from rolled up copies of the British Medical Journal and old rope in the first lockdown I'm willing to cut myself some slack but would be good to know what the actual correct protocol is.

Raise your feet (e.g. on a chair) as an alternative. This also creates space to add weight off a belt once parallel is ok.

[Bradders]

I can bash out 5 sets of 5, nose 6 inches off the deck facing down fairly happily

Fuck me, is this normal?!

On Ts that's about my 1 rep max atm, I.e. in a fully horizontal position at the bottom of the rep, nose getting close to ground. Bashing out lots of reps like that is pretty hardcore, would expect most 8th grade boulderers would be able to do it though.

Much harder on Is but again I've previously got to that level a few times. Absolutely nails my core.

[AMorris]

I can bash out 5 sets of 5, nose 6 inches off the deck facing down fairly happily

Fuck me, is this normal?! I have never got remotely close to this. I can't extend the length of the TRX without a lot of faff though so have never really changed the length of the rope - I just shuffle my feet to adjust the angle instead. Is this wrong?

Given that I constructed my "TRX" from rolled up copies of the British Medical Journal and old rope in the first lockdown I'm willing to cut myself some slack but would be good to know what the actual correct protocol is.

  I presumed it would be for people doing a lot of shoulders. Wadded for the blue peter TRX 

Much harder on Is but again I've previously got to that level a few times. Absolutely nails my core.

I stopped doing I's a while back because I have one of those door rig systems on mine, and found I's very awkward to do. I felt like I was doing them wrong and stopped for fear of injuring myself. Also I am a lazy bugger and micro managing straps on my TRX every session annoyed me, so I just do bar stuff for core really. Do you feel I's target anything that ab rolling doesn't?

[Bradders]

Never tried ab rolling so I don't know, although I would guess that doing Is on a TRX / rings is slightly more full body engagement and stability based?

[Plattsy]

For ab wheel variation add a slight turn left and right when rolling out.

[sdm]

I always found Is the easiest on rings, then Ts, with Ys being by far the hardest. My Ys are limited by poor shoulder mobility in that position.

I stopped doing I's a while back because I have one of those door rig systems on mine, and found I's very awkward to do. I felt like I was doing them wrong and stopped for fear of injuring myself. Also I am a lazy bugger and micro managing straps on my TRX every session annoyed me, so I just do bar stuff for core really. Do you feel I's target anything that ab rolling doesn't?

On TRX, I can't get the intensity high enough for Is because the two handles are too close together so you don't get the extra instability. Friction with the floor becomes my limiting factor when I'm still at an RPE of about 3/10, even after I put some rubber matting down to increase the friction.

So I bought some rings instead. I haven't got anywhere that I can attach rings at home, so I take them with me when I go running and attach them to a crossbar at the park or a tree branch.

I use the TRX for Ts and Ys (I still prefer the rings for the higher intensity) and for rows, pull throughs, warmups etc.

Rings are much better for high intensity work. I think the biggest advantage of TRX is being able to mount it in hotel doorways if you travel for work.