Always good to know the quality of the gold you're trading - and I think the significance of any ascent works that way. I just don't think I'd claim an ascent using a pad,
Quote from: DAVETHOMAS90 on October 15, 2020, 07:54:57 pmAlways good to know the quality of the gold you're trading - and I think the significance of any ascent works that way. I just don't think I'd claim an ascent using a pad, is that a joke?! You don't see anyone climbing in Spain now who isn't rubbered up like the gimp in Pulp Fiction.I would be absolutely astonished if he hadn't done it with a pad, they are a standard bit of climbing equipment at the Tor I'd have thought. Fair enough if you personally wouldn't claim it but you have to accept you're the soldier out of step on that one I think.
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on October 15, 2020, 09:00:00 pmQuote from: DAVETHOMAS90 on October 15, 2020, 07:54:57 pmAlways good to know the quality of the gold you're trading - and I think the significance of any ascent works that way. I just don't think I'd claim an ascent using a pad, is that a joke?! You don't see anyone climbing in Spain now who isn't rubbered up like the gimp in Pulp Fiction.I would be absolutely astonished if he hadn't done it with a pad, they are a standard bit of climbing equipment at the Tor I'd have thought. Fair enough if you personally wouldn't claim it but you have to accept you're the soldier out of step on that one I think.Of course it’s not a joke. Fuck Spain and their identikit routes. Mat asked me about what I thought about using a kneepad on Hubble? Haha. I said it would be a shame. I told him I thought Sean McColl was a dick on the Mammut repeating the classics whining afterwards that he didn’t have the right type of kneepad. I don’t know why he bothered asking as he went and strapped his pad on anyway. So much for respecting the history of the route. Anyway the next generation of influencers have decided so it’s hunky dory now. Like using a kneepad on Mecca is acceptable now or Bens Roof for that matter before someone jumps down my gullet or the happy people claiming the Green Traverse without dropping down to the crimps. Like I said it’s a shame but now it’s the way to do it.
Of course it’s not a joke. Fuck Spain and their identikit routes. Mat asked me about what I thought about using a kneepad on Hubble? Haha. I said it would be a shame. I told him I thought Sean McColl was a dick on the Mammut repeating the classics whining afterwards that he didn’t have the right type of kneepad. I don’t know why he bothered asking as he went and strapped his pad on anyway. So much for respecting the history of the route. Anyway the next generation of influencers have decided so it’s hunky dory now. Like using a kneepad on Mecca is acceptable now or Bens Roof for that matter before someone jumps down my gullet or the happy people claiming the Green Traverse without dropping down to the crimps. Like I said it’s a shame but now it’s the way to do it.
It’s not an argument it’s a fait accompli
With a side of judgement and you're trying to argue Dave's point that he shouldn't take the route.
I just don't think I'd claim an ascent using a pad,
We deal with the technology and circumstance that we have, and if we are being forthright then we disclose everything and go with it. He's not hiding anything. He's being honest and that's good enough for me.
It would have been an impressive statement and shown ethical leadership if Mat and Buster with that knowledge had not used it.
Fuck Spain and their identikit routes.
I think it's possible to think its a shame without thinking it disrespects the routes history though.
Off topic, but Spanish/european routes have loads of history, it's just different to ours [...] We don't have a monopoly on climbing history in the UK. British climbing exceptionalism perhaps?
The only saving grace is that Barrow’s 6 metre limb won’t fit under there.
It would have been an impressive statement and shown ethical leadership if Mat and Buster with that knowledge had not used it. The temptation was too great. I get that too. They made their choices. The precedent has now been set. Another chapter in the route’s history.
#biggradesforbadbetaI honestly don't know how anybody can maintain that logic and not say the same thing about anybody climbing a Puttrell route in rock shoes. Or somebody climbing one of the old ice routes on the Ben without cutting steps. Or doing classic VSs at Stanage with cams. Or even using a fingerboard to train for climbing.
Maybe the BMC need to pull together the BMC RED (Regional Ethics Database) so that you can put in a crag/route and check what's "in" - how many pads, acceptable shoe models, are heels/knees allowed, alternate sequences that have been approved by the crag guardians, etc.. Woe betide anyone who posts on Instagram without checking the approvals list to ensure their ascent is valid.
"I used a home-made kneepad at the time, not everyone was a moron in the 90s, you know".
Obviously nobody really cares at the lower grades way below the cutting edge
Quote from: JohnM on October 16, 2020, 10:24:58 amObviously nobody really cares at the lower grades way below the cutting edge8c+ or 9a isn't cutting edge now though