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Devon bouldering (Read 4560 times)

ben

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#25 Re: Devon bouldering
September 27, 2020, 08:59:46 pm
Sounds good, lost horizons is ace eh.  Was up at hound tor today, beautiful day, I can concur on Alan smith stand, surely its 7a ?  What's honey traverse ?

dunnyg

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#26 Re: Devon bouldering
September 27, 2020, 09:08:42 pm
Proper good! Sorry I meant cream traverse. No idea where I came up with honey traverse from. Long day driving I guess!
Alan smith was the last thing I got on, 7A makes more sense, and hard at that! I was sure I was missing something, but might have just run out of beans (and skin). The sit looks up my street, but probably one for if I lived locally.

I bet today was awesome, I was up yesterday, so sunny and breezy, baltic in the wind and shade but tshirt weather in the sun and sheltered areas.


SA Chris

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#27 Re: Devon bouldering
September 27, 2020, 09:24:38 pm
Did you do Skin Graft? I think I still have scars from doing it in shorts.

Love baggy, memories of so many good days there.

dunnyg

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#28 Re: Devon bouldering
September 27, 2020, 09:31:14 pm
Ha. I tried. I managed the 6C traverse on the same boulder. I tried skin graft 3 times. Felt sick on the 3rd, so decided to leave it.... Shorts is a bold move!

SA Chris

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#29 Re: Devon bouldering
September 27, 2020, 09:43:29 pm
Dave Henderson pointed us at it, he was pissing himself watching.

We'd done Aviation and Interrogation and I'd just done Suspension Flake (see old Simmonite Book) and I was ragged by that point, but I think I ground my way up it.

dunnyg

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#30 Re: Devon bouldering
September 27, 2020, 10:03:03 pm
My partner was both encouraging and laughing at me. I love problems like that, just pure effort (if you don't have technique) , like offwidths.... Suspension flake is a belter. I stood under 'Toltec two step' or whatever the direct on suspension flake is, and it didnt look impossible, just like unpleasant falls, Dartmoor does have some good looking stuff! Aviation is on the one day list. Too many routes in too many places!
I got on with the granite much more this trip than previously, which was nice!

BrutusTheBear

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#31 Re: Devon bouldering
September 27, 2020, 10:55:18 pm
Sounds like you had a good one DunnyG.
Conditions got really good this weekend,  I managed to sneak down down to Bovey Woods super early Saturday morning.
Alan Smith is notoriously hard for a 7c and the stand is a massive sandbag too, classic Dartmoor grades :lol: Going again with the left hand is the easiest method but it's knacky and powerful.
If you enjoy the likes of Skin Graft, next time you're down have a go at the Death Jug Mantle over at Smallacombe rocks.

SA Chris

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#32 Re: Devon bouldering
September 27, 2020, 11:44:17 pm
DJM is super knacky, but great when you do it.

dunnyg

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#33 Re: Devon bouldering
September 28, 2020, 09:32:12 am
Thats a great name for a problem (djm). I thoigh i might lose my face nif i went left again!

BrutusTheBear

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#34 Re: Devon bouldering
September 28, 2020, 11:22:22 am
 :lol: feels unlikely but it goes even if you don't have a massive span.  Hardest 6 on the Moor!

 

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