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Power Club 547 31st August - 6th September 2020 (Read 7088 times)

tomtom

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Power Club 547 31st August - 6th September 2020
September 06, 2020, 09:04:30 pm
Mon: 1 arm day. -18 down to -9 assist. This felt hard so did several repeats on -10

Tues: Board day. Really good session - not fluid, had to try hard but - er did everything! Including a new blobs pinch problem. Board is nicely set at the moment. Nothing feels easy and all the problems are quite droppable, but can be done.

Weds: Rubicon with the lad - and met up with Dolly who was up for some lowball shuffling with his wonky ankle. Always limited having the little one in tow, but had a fun session trying to figure out what the f*ck happens with Piranha traverse. had a couple of attempts on Kudos - and probably came closest I've been (tickling edge of final holds) but I didnt really have much snap or strength, so was having to fight all the way. Solid on the Press... it will go eventually... That eve still felt like I needed to work, so did a small assisted 1 arm set..

Thurs: Board day. Only had 45 min - but decent session.

Friday: Met up with Dolly and Plattsy at Made in Sheffield. Cool problem. Loved the shouldery moves out right. Couldn't really get comfortable with how to do the last move - felt I needed to be fresher to really suck that left heel on for the top. One of those moves where you have to fight to keep it on even though it should just stick. Plattsy did laps on it :)

Sat: Family day - the lad obfuscated with coming up to the bath - so I took advantage of the 30-40 min it took him to come upstairs to squeeze in a cheeky assisted one armer session. Down to -14 (but had my jeans and a jumper on  - so closer to -12/-12.5

Sun: The age old weekend mixed forecast conundrum. Supermarket - then giving MrsTT a lift to the park with the lad delayed things and in the end I thought I'd go and have a visit to Stronstrey Bank Lancs. Its a lovely spot - small crags overlooking a tiny hamlet with white painted cottages around a rural cricket ground (where they sell tea and cake  to the passing walkers). It was a good choice - no rain all day.

Went to the lone boulder (that I'd only looked at briefly before) to open my account on Noisy Cricket (a 7C lowball up a short crimpy wall). Managed the first hard move fairly quickly - but got a bit stuck on the second (holding a slopey edge to bring RH up). Then - er - pulled hard, came close, pulled harder and did it! First 7C in a session! (and only my 4th). The topout was really badly executed (having not really tried it) but I wasnt going to drop the f*cker :D Amazed!! Calmed down with a coffee and victory pastry and had one of those great "shit - what am I going to do now?" moments (that normally happen when you do something you've been projecting for months first go of the session) - so went off to one of the quarries on the edge and got stuck into another 7C (7B+ from the stand) Hellebore... Oh, I got very very close to getting a different version of the stand (prob 7B) but ran out of juice.

Guess all that training is paying off!

JamieG

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Nice work tomtom. Sounds like you are climbing really well at the moment!

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M: bowderstone, fell off the final move of grand a bunch of times.
T: rest
W: max hangs then board session. Repeated a few things. Got a couple of harder things in halves that I've not done before. Did a move on the board I've never done before too.
T: rest
F: short session on roof of a baby buddha. Managed to do from the 3rd move to the top and from the first move to falling off the 5th move a handful of times. Fairly happy with those links given I've not tried this since 2019. Confident if I linked the 5th move from the bottom I'd go to the top. Will try to go back soon. Probably once grand has been finished off.
S: rest
S: bowderstone, fell off the final move of grand a bunch of times again. Not the best conditions. Feels ridiculously close now. Just need to keep turning up and get it over the line. Managed to get the moves for picnic left hand sit dialed too so something else to get done at some point when a little fresher.

shark

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Effort TT

11.2-3 Average 157.1 (down 0.8lbs)

M.

T. Afternoon. Malham with Ewa. Drive up took ages. Crag by 3pm and climbed till started to get dark. Warm and mainly still. Routes dry but rock has turned to glass. Cons x 3. Felt terrible. Several tie ins on start of Oak. Every move felt desperate. Didn’t get beyond second bolt. Had a play seeing what clipping 3rd bolt was like. Attempted throw to top twice at end. Did throw straight off each time and got to undercut at start of traverse but spent. Lots of effort but little to show for it. Home after 10pm. Zonked following morning

W. Evening. Did some lengthy hangs on the Ergo Edge with a view to doing recruitment hangs and speed pulls after the online Peak meeting but at the end of it needed gin

T.

F. Slept badly. Malham with Steve and Ewa. Sunny when got there but cooled down with decent intermittent breeze blowing across. F&EE x 2 and Cons x1. First tie in on the Oak got to undercut by third bolt straight away ie better than any of Monday’s attempts. Concentrated on the bottom section without the third bolt pre-clipped. 4 goes up to it - twice clipping and twice grabbing the draw. The times I did once I clipped off high incut sidepull and the other off the undercut. Either is tough. Was hoping to try to link throw to top at end but too spent when got round to try it. Had a play on the clipping positions at the end and found a small but useful foothold for left foot and will clip with RH from now on with left hand in undercut pulling the elbow back to the hip.

S. Bens birthday and tradition dictates we go bouldering somewhere of his choosing. Went to Rowtor. The boys quickly despatched Blood Falls and a 7A to its left. Then we got to work on Yoghurt Hypnotist. The boys did the hard section but failed on the finish of Chip Shop Mantel. I managed Chip Shop Mantel but it woke up my golfers elbow which I thought had totally disappeared after a year of niggling

S.Noon. Did progressively lengthier bodyweight hangs half crimped on ergo up to 30 secs which was pretty good
PM Systems board. An Power. 3 sets. First set went well so upped the difficulty slightly for the next two sets

Concentrated on the lower section of the Oak this week and now slick on it again. The clip is tough though and is like an hard extra move. Critical factors all seem to heading the right way weight, weather etc so looking forward to seeing how upcoming sessions pan out
« Last Edit: September 13, 2020, 07:04:42 pm by shark »

Nibile

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Power Club

Mon - BM pockets + 2 kg x5. 30" rings I in between. Various loaded carries and glutes.
Tue - gym, legs, weights. Had a go at one armers after ages, my elbows didn't like them at all.
Wed - various loaded carries. Tired.
Thu - lots of farmer's walk.
Fri - boxing bag, quite on fire.
Sat - 20' of loaded carries.
Sun - rest.

Will Hunt

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M - Evening cycle for an hour and a half.

Th - Evening trip to Earl with Harry. Went down to Australia Roof to warm up and did it second go, but only just. Nails! Then up to Earl Buttress, which I've tried before but hung on the rope near the top. Went well but still a bit pumpy towards the top. It must be the best route at the grade on Yorkshire grit. Harry did Earl Crack which was mighty. Had wanted to have a go on Sour Grapes but we'd lost the light.

S - Took the sprog to the Harrogate Wall for her first attempt at roped climbing. She did really well at the going up part but didn't want to let go to come down. There may have been some small squeals of fear which made me feel like a very bad dad, especially as the main aim was to make it fun for her. But she was keen to do the climbing up bit so she did some laps going up to about my head height before practicing letting go of the wall and sitting in the harness to come down. She progressed a little higher but going above her previous high-point meant that the height got to her and she would forget how to come down.

S - Malham with Andy. Warmed up on Career with Prospects and Consenting. Upstairs for Obsession. Went up and put the clips in and conditions felt great and the moves felt steady. Decided there probably wasn't an easier sequence on the crux at the top. Practiced the middle sequence a little to try and get it to stick in my head. It's only a 20m long route but it feels like there's a lot to remember! Came down and belayed Andy. Then had a false start, slipping off the section before the first huge jug. The sun had come out and it was scorching. We watched the clouds and tried to gauge when there would be a long enough period of shade to get up it. In the end I declared that I was bored and got on anyway. Sun came out for the middle bit which went fairly shambolicly. Managed to shake out a little at the top rest and the sun went in. Just about managed to close the crimps on the crux at the top, but it was a very close run thing. Andy dispatched it with ease of course.
Then down to the catwalk to look for something else to do. Plumped for Personal Services. Dogged up and called for the stick at the nasty runout. Found the climbing through the runout difficult but Andy tamed it with a very long extender. Did first RP.

Punter question: if you've got a very long extender (multiple draws chained together) on something so you can clip a bolt early, but you also want to clip it again at a normal height, is it safe to just clip two quickdraws through the bolt - one being the extender and the other being the short draw? Does this put weird forces on the bolt? I can't imagine them being significant against what the bolt is designed to do. Can falling on the outer-clipped quickdraw do anything weird to the other quickdraw? I can imagine some circumstances where the two draws might overlap and squish each other, but probably nothing significant to the strength of the metal.

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Good effort TT, keep the faith Dan!

Another week...

M - rest

T - Max Hangs. Finally back down to 5kg assist. Didn't complete set but felt pretty solid for the most part so am basically back to previous PB. Warming up with some weighted two arm hangs felt nails but might have got me better recruited? Finished with some one arm 3FD hangs and basically got down to bodyweight on the left arm again; took my feet off the ground in the wrong place and the resulting swing kicked me off. Good to feel competent on these again.

W - rest.

T - Anderson Hangs. Added the 10mm micros into set and felt correspondingly fucked very quickly. Failed towards the end of every set thereafter; volume having an effect. Still find them quite satisfying so will do a few more weeks of them then maybe change a few holds; start to use the slopers again perhaps.

F - rest.

S - fancied less driving this weekend so went tradding at Stoney. Did Froth VS first up and really enjoyed the traverse. Sophie seconded clean which was a good effort with the weird thrutchy first pitch and steep groove at the end of the traverse. Did Fe Fi Fo Fum next which I thought was rubbish. Felt like I was climbing ok though so decided to have a go at Bitterfingers after giving the peg a test tug on the abseil off FFFF. Climed the low crux really well and laced it like a shoe as I felt like I had plenty in reserve. After resting and placing two bomber wires I typically nearly blew it crossing the overlap when I inexplicably stopped for 10 seconds mix crux to worry about the gear. Eventually I got on with it and finished it; great route. Finished doing Fingals Flue which was amazing; more like caving than climbing and a good option for a bit of an adventure.

S - ended up at Wrights Rock for a bit of bouldering. Psych inexplicably low but managed Fingers and Simple Simon Indirect. Felt weak on that steep bouldery style; need to go back on a board desperately as haven't been since March  :o when it started pissing it down we took that as the cue to bail.

Another week ticks by. The wall is finally opening again in a few days so might try and get a session in there. Entertaining myself this weekend so planning to head to Malham next weekend as conditions look excellent this far out.

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Mon: Second day on rock this year - another day on Portland on-sighting low 6s. Managed to keep forearm cramp at bay until clipping the the belay of the last route of the day. Just happy to be out moving on rock.

Tues-Wed: Rest.

Thurs: Garden board session. 10 warm up problems then attempts at a few harder things. So close on one of my projects, can get through the crux regularly but was then struggling with the move to the penultimate hold - felt like my skin was a bit glassy and slipping when attempting this move. Stretching and pullups.

Fri-Sat: Rest. Spent Friday building a small vertical board for our son.

Sun: Ancap-style session. 12 warm-up problems then 7 attempts at variations of 12-move problem (dropped last attempt as skin was shot). Stretching and pull-ups.

Ok week. Good to get out again.

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M shed but largely with the aim of seeing if my ankle could stand any weight on it
T All Crimpd antagonist workouts
W Rubicon with TT. Haven’t climbed there in years and I can now remember why :). Went there as I thought Piranha traverse might be ok being easy to step off. TT looking mighty ripped with bulging muscles. That’s board power :)
T Core with some kettlebells and weights but the bloody Waitrose delivery arrived half way through
F Houndkirk with TT and Plattsy to look at MIS but my ankle stopped any real progress
S shed to play on a mini reset
S

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Good stuff TT, sounds like good cranking.

Another week doing pretty much the same as last week which may or may not be particularly climbing focused but does keep me happy.

M - Back on it on a Bank Holiday Monday. Beautiful weather but we have plans for the day so no climbing.
Get to gym early. Deadlifts with 60k do 10 sets of 5 with maximum tension and form.
On to chest exercises. 4x8 bench press with 60k. Then do 5x5 floor presses, which I haven’t done for a really long time, but I do enjoy as it takes all the elasticity out of the movement and makes it a very static lift. Move on to 5x5 incline dumbbell presses and finish with incline flys with a long pause at the bottom and drop sets. Just some gentle floor exercises for core today.
 
T - Trip up to Caley in the morning. Great weather and good session doing easy stuff around the Flapjack and working some harder stuff. Stopped when the creatures started biting.
On the way home, I nip into City Bloc to feed my pathological training addiction. Start with tricep work. Close grip presses for 4x10 at a fairly light weight. Move on to 5x5 tricep rope extensions with the rope behind the head and the long head going to full extension. Then 3x8 leaning overhead extensions and 3x8 standing rope presses. Finish off with a few sets of dips.
Max hangs with 40k added for 5 seconds for six sets, which feel reasonably hard today.
Deadlift at the end of the day. Today is speed reps for 3x8 @ 60%. Seem to be getting good speed on all three reps these days, whereas first rep had felt slower previously.
Lever raises at home in the evening.

W - Good looking day, so head up to Almscliffe. Good session on DWR and around that area, with good temps, good breeze and a bit of sun to boot. Get DWR done again and think I have a sequence I can remember for future visits. Play with the direct finish and close but no cigar. I do have a lot of time to try it though. We bail when it starts to get a bit windier and cooler, having had a successful session.
Weights later in the day. Deadlifts are supposed to be heavy singles. Start with 140 for first three sets, then do a double and then a triple to get to  8 reps total, which feels okay. Last two sets are 145 which flys up and 150 which also goes up steadily. Think may need to do some recalculation of working weights. May be heaviest I’ve lifted this year, certainly heaviest since mid-January pec tear. Benchmark how much weight I need to take off for OAP and find it’s 5k on RH and 7.5 on LH, which is something to work on. Then do some very strict pull ups with pause at top and bottom for 3 sets. Machine pull downs for two arms and then single arms for three sets each. Plank for core to finish.

T - Social climbing comes early today. Meet up with friend at the Depot this morning, who hasn’t climbed for many months. Good session. Manage to flash all the blacks in the circuit and manage to get up what I think is my first yellow all year and then quickly get up another couple of the yellows, which is particularly pleasing as all three are very different in style.
Do today’s kettlebell swings in 100s through the rest of the day, which seems to help minimise the tedium and works on mobility and core strength.
Spend half an hour or so doing things to help stretch my glutes and my hamstrings, as stretching is definitely something I’ve neglected for a long time, plus I felt a twinge whilst heel hooking today, which is probably a sign that if you do a lot of deadlifts, it probably makes sense to stretch the posterior chain a bit.
Weights for the day are shoulders with press dominant work. Start with standing barbell press for 4 sets of 10. Move on to seated machine presses for 3 sets of 10. Then do half and halves on the machine with a lower weight. Kneeling Arnold presses for high number of reps with Dumbbell presses to finish.

F - Still a bit tweaky in glute and hamstring. Paused deadlifts with really low weight to help stretch it out and check that motion is pain free. Range of mobility exercises in between sets.
Main weights session is bicep orientated with abs work and stretching between sets. Start with 5x5 strict barbell curls. Move on to seated barbell curls and complement this with incline curls both for 3x8. Them Zottman curls with increasing weight and decreasing reps. Then concentration curls for 2-3 reps for 3 sets. Old school chin ups to finish.
Max hangs for fingers late afternoon. 5 second hangs on 14mm edges for 3 sets and then on 10mm edge for 3 sets, all sets with bodyweight plus 24k. 14mm is half crimp but 10mm is most definitely a full crimp. Back to repeaters next week.

S - Rest day.

S - Sunday is normally the day for lots of deadlift volume and weight but hamstring is still playing up so just use a much lighter weight and then go on to do my full range mobility exercises. Next week is deload, so far as deads are concerned, so hopefully it will have settled by the week after.

Some good days out and some good days in, so happy enough. End of six weeks so changing a few things next week, which will be interesting.

SA Chris

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Decided mission for September is at least an hour of exercising every day.

M - Run while son at Athletics. Nipped down to meet mate who's daughter is at gymnastics at the same time, and did a quick blast around Stonehaven, through the woods, up to the castle, back and then made it to back with minutes to spare. first 10 k  in under an hour in ages, which always feels like a benchmark for running form for me.
T - back on Yellow Crag project. Conditions shocking, but refinement of beta a couple of drops of moves where i shouldn't have, but they wind picked up, it got cooler, and it went down. Made up.
W - fingers blown and sore from yesterday - did a ton of curls and pushups.
T - Wall session. Fingers feeling better, nothing radical, just good volume of hardish probs.
F - bit of gardening at lunchtime. Football in the harden with kids.
S - Strange one. Went to a place I've not climbed at for a while. One section of the rock I had written off, as the landing was horrendous, huge weed covered ankle breaking boulders, and no place to top out, so would need to drop off. And no real chance of platforming, as sea would undo any work. However, after last month's torrential storm it looks like somehow the boulders have all been shifted, and left a perfectly paddable landing behind. Did 5 new probs before sea came in, all on fantastic rock, and got a few projects to go back to with a couple more pads and a spotter or two. So psyched. It's a great little suntrap too, just a shame it's tidal. Walk at Fowlsheugh in the afternoon, most of the birds have flown though. Saw a couple of seals, and gulls, crows and rock pigeons.
S - Gardening am, football and frisbee with friends in afternoon, kettlebells in the evening.

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Weight 10st7lbs

M - Shoulder recruitment exercises + core. Weighted pullups and hangs - short kick starter session after being on holiday for 2 weeks.

T - First half of the Innsbruck K110 Ultra. Decided to do a longer run, after averaging 20km for most of the summer, before the Innsbruck K110 Ultra in 10 days and check out the first half of the course. I was pleased with my pace and how I felt. Knee felt dodgy for a while but settled down. This section will be over night in the race so I guess my pace will be slower. 53km with 2600m elevation gain.

W - Shoulder recruitment exercises. Weighted pullups and max. pulls on Lattice edge. 5 x single pullups + 20kg.

T - Mountain bike ride. Up on the fire road and down the Hungerberg single track. 12km with 317m elevation gain.

F - Climbing at Kofnertal. Put the draws in an 8a. I could barely do the moves on the boulder problem at the top and lowered off drenched in sweat. Tried again an hour later after the sun had gone away and it was much fresher and I finished the route. Tried an 8b up an impressive black streak running up an overhanging arete/prow. Cool moves but I got to a point in the middle where there was a rock scar and apparently no usable holds so I escaped up another route. Lowered back down but this route seems impossible at 8b now which is a shame. Good session. Happy to finally finish a route harder than 7a after sweating off nearly everything all summer!

S - Checked out the final 20km of the Innsbruck K110. This is definitely the nicest part but some sections are brutally steep so it is going to be a killer after already running 84km. I was tired and in a grumpy mood for most of the run. Probably good mental training for what is to come!

S - Shoulder recruitment exercises + core. Pullups + assisted one armers. Assisted 1 arm hangs on Lattice rung (-12kg) + 2 arm hangs + 30kg (7secs x 5).   

A good week of training. I felt solid in my hangs and pullups but haven't really progressed in terms of adding or subtracting weight over the summer as my sessions are too sporadic. I felt more solid in the one arms hangs on the Lattice rung but I still need a lot of assistance to do a meaningful hang. Focus now is on the Innsbruck K110 Ultra starting at 2300 on Friday evening and then recovery after. Then it will be back to trying to quickly tune up my climbing PE and try and have a few sessions on Mercy Street (8c) at Shleier before the winter.

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M - Bodyweight stuff for shoulder strength: handstands etc.
T - Shoulders as above
W - Fingerboard: Aerobic Power session (repeaters at ~50% MVC) 2 mins. x 6 sets.
T - 5km run
F - Shoulders as above, drive to N Wales to a wet campsite. Met up with Hugo.
S - Snowdonia was under a cloud so headed for Rhoscolyn. Warmed up with Icarus (HVS) then Hugo led Mask of Red Death (E3).  Bumped into shark’s mate Dave and habrich’s mate Crispin. Talked about mutual friends, Cerro Torre and Marple Bridge; didn’t talk about the BMC. Headed over to the Big G. Great temperatures, all dry, tide was going out. Deserted other than a team finishing The Strand. What is the world coming to! Did Resolution Direct (E2), three brilliant pitches of Main Cliff goodness. Fish and chips in Hollyhead for the complete experience.
S - Back to Rhoscolyn and led El Dorado (E1) in the steps of big G and young lady who wasn’t introduced. Then followed Hugo up the excellent Bigger Girls (E5; ~F7a with some snappy rock and gear which is probably OK but you can’t be certain).  A great end to a great weekend.

First time ever at Rhoscolyn, 3rd new crag of 2020.  First trad. climbing for a year and first time at Gogarth since the 1990s (other than a day repeating Dream). All of which would be completely baffling to my 20 and 30 something version who counted Gogarth as his favourite cliff in the UK and where I climbed my biggest numbers. If this weekend is anything to go by, folk now prefer the more convenient mini-adventures offered by Rhoscolyn (or Pembroke): no getting late back for childcare duties or your bar job, no scrambling around collapsing grass ledges or thrashing through heather in downturned shoes, just abseil in and climb back up to your trainers. I loved every minute of it: the sea level traverse, carrying too much gear then placing nearly all of it in a pitch, sore thumbs from pinching fins, the sense of isolation. Felt quite cautious to start with and didn’t fancy performing in front of my peers but confidence grew as the weekend progressed. I’m not sure if I’ve still got a Gogarth E5 in me but it would be great to spend a bit more time there again.

shark

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  Bumped into shark’s mate Dave

Marsh?

Quote
didn’t talk about the BMC.

 :lol:

Quote
First trad. climbing for a year and first time at Gogarth since the 1990s (other than a day repeating Dream). All of which would be completely baffling to my 20 and 30 something version who counted Gogarth as his favourite cliff in the UK and where I climbed my biggest numbers. If this weekend is anything to go by, folk now prefer the more convenient mini-adventures offered by Rhoscolyn (or Pembroke): no getting late back for childcare duties or your bar job, no scrambling around collapsing grass ledges or thrashing through heather in downturned shoes, just abseil in and climb back up to your trainers. I loved every minute of it: the sea level traverse, carrying too much gear then placing nearly all of it in a pitch, sore thumbs from pinching fins, the sense of isolation.

Oooo nice description. Got me excited to go there again. I’m sure the feeling will pass in about 5 minutes

SA Chris

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lie down for a bit and it will.

Rob F

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Heard it here first: Shark invents a gunslinger move to get him up the Oak...


abarro81

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RE clipping one bolt multiple times there are two main ways I use:
1. As others have suggested - Clip a draw into the bolt. Put a sling through the top krab of this draw, with a biner hanging off the bottom of the sling. You can steal the little rubber thing off the draw you're getting the krabs from to stop the bottom krab moving (instead of having to use tape), and you can buy them online too (petzl make them). Be warned, slings are more faff to clip.
2. Use a 3x or 4x extended draw for the low clip, and clip a separate draw through the biner that's clipped to the bolt. This is my default if I want extended draws for redpoint but I want a short one to work sections off

Neil F

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If this weekend is anything to go by, folk now prefer the more convenient mini-adventures offered by Rhoscolyn (or Pembroke)

Not everyone Duncan. We did a big Gogarth route 4 days on the trot last weekend.  After that we had to go home for a rest...

 :-[

tomtom

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Heard it here first: Shark invents a gunslinger move to get him up the Oak...



Hair trigger I’d heard 😃

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M: Lots of loading and fingerboarding at physical therapist. Core. Lower Body Stretching

T: Density pickups, 20mm, R 50lb, L 40lb, 30s *4sets. Bench press up to +140lb. Incline shoulder press 40lb, bicep curl 40lb, shoulder press 40lb, lateral raise 20lb, front raise 20lb, all X6 *3sets

W: DBC. First time bouldering for a while. Did fingerboard to warm up as directed. Repeaters 20mm 5s on 3s off X5 *4sets (2sets BW, 2sets +10lb). Climbed for one hour up to M, flashed everything. Hard to trust wrist but finger feeling like it's holding me back more than wrist. Trying to climb as statically as possible. Finished up with Pull-ups EMOM X5 *10 = 50 pull-ups.

T: Density pickups, 20mm, R 50lb, L 40lb, 30s *4sets. Squats +90lb X10 *3sets. Knee durability exercises *1set

F: Density pickups, 20mm, R 50lb, L 40lb, 30s *4sets.

S: Mt Evans - Area A. Warmed up with laps  on The Ladder V2, best warm-up in the world. Tried Ben's Arete V6 - v sharp. Went over to Area B to check out a boulder that might be ok for me - death landing. Back to A and tried Ludder's Pinch V6++ Lots of goes on this then called it before I overdid it

Bonus Labor Day Monday entry: Emerald Lake. Warmed up repeating the Kind V5. Went over to Tiger Stripes V5 and sent that - sketch with one pad and no spot… Did the Cube V6, v v sharp. Went to try Kneebar V6 and did most of the moves except for final move of crux. Wrist feeling a bit tweaky and skin v thin so went home.

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  Bumped into shark’s mate Dave

Marsh?

Think higher up...


If this weekend is anything to go by, folk now prefer the more convenient mini-adventures offered by Rhoscolyn (or Pembroke)

Not everyone Duncan. We did a big Gogarth route 4 days on the trot last weekend.  After that we had to go home for a rest...

 :-[

Just the one per day Neil?  ;)

T_B

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..edit: forget it
« Last Edit: September 08, 2020, 11:59:52 am by T_B »

shark

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  Bumped into shark’s mate Dave

Marsh?
Quote
Think higher up...


Ah Turnbull. Hope we are still mates anyway. Understandable if not. My criticisms of him are solely professional

mr chaz

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M. Fingerboard - 2 arm max hangs
T.
W.
T. First session back at the climbing wall. As expected, felt awful. Fingers not too bad, but clearly not used to hard cranking. Arms were utterly useless and getting an instant pump. Fun though!
F.
S. Dinbren. Still had DOMS from Thursday, but felt alright once warmed up. Did the 6b warmup on the right and then repeated hot stuff 7a. Had a look at Fire 7a+ hoping to redpoint quickly but got burnt out. Tough and powerful for 7a+ I thought. I've done a handful of routes at Dinbren now between 6b and 7c and this was the first one I though felt tough for the grade.
S.

Just so great to be back on rock. More of this please.

Neil F

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  Bumped into shark’s mate Dave

Marsh?
Quote
Think higher up...


Ah Turnbull. Hope we are still mates anyway. Understandable if not. My criticisms of him are solely professional

Ah - if it was that Dave, I probably ignored you Duncan (given that I was climbing with Mr Turnbull on the Saturday).

Sorry about that... :'(

 

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