Nevermind guys, the first five or six years of training on one's own are a bit hard, then you get used to it and after fifteen or twenty years it feels like a piece of cake.
Quote from: 36chambers on March 31, 2020, 09:20:12 pmQuote from: Will Hunt on March 31, 2020, 08:43:22 pmI always struggle to do any training because it's too easy to get sidetracked by real climbing, which I always prioritise over going indoors. So all summer I'm out on the grit in the evenings doing trad plodding or whatever, which means I never get round to training. With that out of the window I've thrown myself into this. In reality I'm just doing what everyone on here has been doing for years. Core in front of the telly; fingerboarding; board sessions etc. I'm quite hopeful that I'll end up in better shape by the end of it.+1This seems to be the sentiment of pretty much everyone, from my experience of the Leeds depot I rarely see anyone else climbing on the board so I don't necessarily think everyone is already training like fury (but I do tend to climb at quiet times). Since having kids (and breaking my ankle in a minor but functionally significant fashion) my normal routine pretty much solely comprises fingerboarding and board climbing. I think I am significantly stronger now than I was 4 years ago and when I have climbed outdoors (rarely) I have climbed a few things I haven't been able to in the past. I am curious to see how this goes, maybe no 8b in Yorkshire will safe from the downgrading but it is pretty boring.
Quote from: Will Hunt on March 31, 2020, 08:43:22 pmI always struggle to do any training because it's too easy to get sidetracked by real climbing, which I always prioritise over going indoors. So all summer I'm out on the grit in the evenings doing trad plodding or whatever, which means I never get round to training. With that out of the window I've thrown myself into this. In reality I'm just doing what everyone on here has been doing for years. Core in front of the telly; fingerboarding; board sessions etc. I'm quite hopeful that I'll end up in better shape by the end of it.+1
I always struggle to do any training because it's too easy to get sidetracked by real climbing, which I always prioritise over going indoors. So all summer I'm out on the grit in the evenings doing trad plodding or whatever, which means I never get round to training. With that out of the window I've thrown myself into this. In reality I'm just doing what everyone on here has been doing for years. Core in front of the telly; fingerboarding; board sessions etc. I'm quite hopeful that I'll end up in better shape by the end of it.
You're an inspiration nibs. I'm glad you are still quietly smashing it.
Quote from: Nibile on April 01, 2020, 01:49:33 pmNevermind guys, the first five or six years of training on one's own are a bit hard, then you get used to it and after fifteen or twenty years it feels like a piece of cake. Out of curiosity, have you seen improvements outdoors and did they plateau?
If you don't have a board I think you just have to accept that at the end of this period you'll be strong-but-shit for a little while. In my experience you can get away with this most on bouldering, slightly less on redpoint routes or longer bouldering, and least on onsighting routes...