[shark]

I’ll hope my existing strengths will come back fairly quickly - but can use the tedium and monotony of a fingerboard to work on weaknesses.

Yes - in general those things that you’ve worked the most over the years are the things that tend to come back quicker

[duncan]

Duncan - was interesting listening to a spiel by Steve Bechtel with regard to circumstances facing all of us from 9.13

https://www.facebook.com/climbstrong/videos/233504881171865/

A key point is that instead of trying to inadequately trying to hang on to our general all round climbing performance and endurance that a better response is to instead focus and prioritise on boosting performance of a few narrower things that we have perhaps put off for years.

Thanks for this, it's a good point. Luckily my biggest weaknesses are my basic finger and shoulder strength (and power) and tendency to get injured. All these are quite easily trained with a fingerboard, pull-up bar, rings, and some bodyweight work. I'm now doing what the rest of the world has done for 20 years!

Long endurance was an icing on the cake option, I never envisaged more than once a week. Short endurance can just wait; when it's all over I look forward to getting pumped after three moves!

[Will Hunt]

While doing the core exercises vid yesterday it became very obvious that I'm quite inflexible. The most apparent thing was leg inflexibility, so I started using the rest periods between exercises to do some very simple "try and touch your toes" stretches, but wondered if there was any easy-to-digest resource out there that could recommend some useful stretches for climbers?

[HarryBD]

While doing the core exercises vid yesterday it became very obvious that I'm quite inflexible. The most apparent thing was leg inflexibility, so I started using the rest periods between exercises to do some very simple "try and touch your toes" stretches, but wondered if there was any easy-to-digest resource out there that could recommend some useful stretches for climbers?

https://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/neds-flexy-madness

[jwi]

A bunch of exercises from Romain Desgrange for people looking for variety/fun stuff to do for warmup etc. In french, but whatever, body french should be understandable: just copy the movements.

[mrjonathanr]

Question is Will, what do you want to be flexible? I struggle to touch my toes but it doesn’t impede my climbing. Hip flexibility is massively useful though. Ditto shoulders, so you don’t cause chronic damage.

[reeve]

While doing the core exercises vid yesterday it became very obvious that I'm quite inflexible. The most apparent thing was leg inflexibility, so I started using the rest periods between exercises to do some very simple "try and touch your toes" stretches, but wondered if there was any easy-to-digest resource out there that could recommend some useful stretches for climbers?

The last few months I've used this: and several others on his channel, which I've really got along with.

[Will Hunt]

Session #1
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-K7uRmDAqI/?igshid=k3sairmsqu3j

Stay psyched, everyone.

[Bradders]

That's a very clean looking board Will, nice.

[SA Chris]

I've strung up some old rock rungs in a tree outside to get  bit of fresh air and a change from beastmakering

Anything i do on them I seem to naturally turn them back to back, both hangs and pull ups. Should i try to resist this, or doesn't it matter? Be better moving them further apart?

[spidermonkey09]

Well, I did the BD Beta core workout. After the first exercise I thought, "oh, this piss". Then the next exercises came along. I'm now an empty shell.

Interesting, did it last night and found it pretty steady, sort of like a yoga/core crossover. Clearly more reps required. Girlfriend suggested men might find it harder than women as there is loads of hip/pelvic stuff in there which women might be better at/train more.

Still worth doing for those that are keen.

[Will Hunt]

I think you finding it easier than me is probably more related to the fact that I NEVER do any isolated exercises of any description, EVER. So what little core strength I have is what I have accrued by simply going climbing. Likewise finger-strength etc.
I did 30 mins on the fingerboard yesterday and, it might be that I wasn't warmed up, or it might be that I wasn't fully trying hard enough, but fucking hell. Using the big deep two finger pockets with middle two and no added weight was virtually a max hang. Using the two smallest crimp rungs (BM2K) was also virtually a max hang! 

Soooooooo weak!

[Camo]

I've strung up some old rock rungs in a tree outside to get  bit of fresh air and a change from beastmakering

Anything i do on them I seem to naturally turn them back to back, both hangs and pull ups. Should i try to resist this, or doesn't it matter? Be better moving them further apart?

I have always done exactly this. I have never known if it was just my poor form or wether that was the way to use them. I’ve been using my beastmaker a lot lot more and haven’t touched the rock rings for ages.

[spidermonkey09]

I think you finding it easier than me is probably more related to the fact that I NEVER do any isolated exercises of any description, EVER. So what little core strength I have is what I have accrued by simply going climbing. Likewise finger-strength etc.
I did 30 mins on the fingerboard yesterday and, it might be that I wasn't warmed up, or it might be that I wasn't fully trying hard enough, but fucking hell. Using the big deep two finger pockets with middle two and no added weight was virtually a max hang. Using the two smallest crimp rungs (BM2K) was also virtually a max hang! 

Soooooooo weak!

That bottom outside edge is a bastard. At least you'll improve quickly now you actually have to do some training.

Get on the abripperx train. I remember doing some core with the general leeds lot a few years ago in depot back room and them actively laughing at me and my pitiful core. Being a competitive dick I've focused on it a lot more since 

No excuses now!

[abarro81]

Bottom outside edges are also a load easier as a half crimp than a full crimp

[spidermonkey09]

Bottom outside edges are also a load easier as a half crimp than a full crimp

Full crimp on a fingerboard?

[Will Hunt]

Bottom outside edges are also a load easier as a half crimp than a full crimp

That's what I was doing 

[abarro81]

Bottom outside edges are also a load easier as a half crimp than a full crimp

That's what I was doing 

  I just thought you might have messed up the beta when you called them crimp rungs

[teestub]

Full crimp on a fingerboard?

100% especially when if you don’t have a board so you’re not doing it anywhere else right now. Although I note that Will half crimped everything on his board, which may explain why he was falling off

[tomtom]

Dont forget to keep those thumbs across the palms on the half crimps!

[Bradders]

Dont forget to keep those thumbs across the palms on the half crimps!

Is that important? I've always half crimped with thumbs just sort of pointing upwards.

[Bradders]

Session #1
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-K7uRmDAqI/?igshid=k3sairmsqu3j

Stay psyched, everyone.

What are the dimensions of your board Will? And what hold spacing do you have between T nuts?

[tomtom]

Dont forget to keep those thumbs across the palms on the half crimps!

Is that important? I've always half crimped with thumbs just sort of pointing upwards.

It’s certainly different. Jack at the Hull wall gave me a good reason why we should all do half crimps like that - that I’ve forgotten!!

Have a try - I quite like it now. I think it might isolate just the four fingers or something like that.

[fatneck]

Never been one for training but even managed to get the wife on the fingerboard yesterday!! I said we'll do this 2 or 3 times a week - she was disgusted and thought we should be doing 30 minutes every day 

[nai]

Well, I did the BD Beta core workout. After the first exercise I thought, "oh, this piss". Then the next exercises came along. I'm now an empty shell.

Interesting, did it last night and found it pretty steady, sort of like a yoga/core crossover. Clearly more reps required. Girlfriend suggested men might find it harder than women as there is loads of hip/pelvic stuff in there which women might be better at/train more.

Still worth doing for those that are keen.

I find them all ok except the Teaser/V sit.  But oddly I find the variations even harder.  Without my legs up in the air or almost straight out in front, kind of acting as a counter balance there's no way I can lift the torso (effectively do a situp) without a bit of momentum.  If anyone knows what weakness in the chain that exposes, I'd love to know