[James Malloch]

There’s a few routes I’ve always wanted to do that are more about being in the mountains than desperate moves. That might help to mix it up and shift some focus on to  enjoying the landscape and environment as well as the climbing itself.

Sounds perfect. 

This is similar for me. I’m not un-motivated as such, but found myself not going outside climbing much for whatever reasons. So this year I’ve set myself a bunch of routes at some of my favourite crags. All which should be do-able within a day (except 1 or 2 which are a little harder).

The aim is to try and shift the focus to getting back out and visiting places which I keep meaning to re-visit where I know I’ll have a great day out.

The aims for me then become planning some nice trips and keeping up my current level of climbing without needing to improve much/at-all. I do want to try and do some training as well but hopefully this will just mean I can onsight the routes and then get on a few others whilst there.

The result is that I’m way more psyched about the spring/summer ahead as I know it will just be about going to some nice places and not having to push myself too hard either. It came about following a trip to Spain in December where, other than one route, I just had a nice time onsighting. This meant I didn’t have too much focus either. Sometimes I’d be happy just with the one route for the day, others I’d try and do as many as my body would allow.

Definitely a good way forward for me!

[JamieG]

Camo, not sure where you are based (or your typical grade). But I've always thought that things like trying to climb every bold star sub 7 in the peak bouldering guide seems liked a really good plan, for when you lose the psyche on hard projects. I think a couple posters on here have done it before (maybe highrepute?)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=503
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1277

Gets you to a variety of crags and nice problems without chasing the grade. Stops you overthinking it (which is a common problem in climbing (I think ))

[User deactivated.]

Aside from all the great alternatives to grade chasing that have been posted, I think it's good to note that some degree of grade chasing can be ok. You've probably tipped past the balance point a little and need to reset but getting properly involved with a project, being inspired in the beginning, making progress and getting psyched, set backs and hating it the next session, training and still struggling, feeling worthless, letting go and then eventually sending etc. is all part of the journey and can be worthwhile.

I'm going through this right now just because I want to tick X grade for the sake of it. I'm currently in a place of frustration but there's also a strange enjoyment that comes with it.

[Camo]

That’s very interesting shark. I get what you mean about it being easy and escapable but it’s very intriguing someone found it had adverse effects on lead head.

[Camo]

Hi James,

That sounds like a great way of approaching it. I can think of a few places that I’d love to go for a reasonably chilled day out and climb some quality routes. It’s a shame I’ve not been back to some places sooner! I had a fantastic day on the east butress a few years ago onsighting routes at my limit. I’ve improved a bit since then and I’ve been dying to get back and do some of the other routes there too.

[Camo]

Hi JamieG

Those look great! I would hope to flash most of those but I’m no grit guru! Every time I’ve traveled for some grit action I find some stuff very amenable and some sandbags! Would be a real nice day out to get lots of mileage and no stress either. The last time I did something simmilar was late last year in Font on the circuits there. Flashed some 6C’s and then got completely spanked on some sketchy 3 & 4 slabs!! All great fun and part of the day out!

[Camo]

Hi Liam,

I get your point of view totally and I can see why you like to do it that way.

For me though I think it has to be a bit more than just the number - even if the number played some part. I guess if I was to choose a project in the next month or so I’d go for something with an inspiring line, maybe some history and quality rock. That way I think the chance of burning out would be less (For me anyway). When I was grade chasing the desire wasn’t ‘genuine’ so I think I need to find things that motivate intrinsically.

[JamieG]

Hi Camo,

Sounds like you had the complete font experience then! Did some bleausard then appear out of nowhere in a pair of old boots, a little towel, pof and just float up the 3s & 4s? :-)

To be fair the footholds get ridiculously polished on the easy circuits.

[Camo]

Haha yes we did get thoroughly shown up by some locals! I weirdly found the climbing on the black circuits a bit easier than some of the polished ‘easier’ circuits partly because of polish and partly because I couldn’t one arm out of a slab!

The other weird font experience was loads of blokes driving round and round the car parks late on looking for a prostitute...the hookers has obviously had enough and gone home (it was cold)! But said dodgy blokes kept looking in my van to see if I had one with me in case they could have a go when I was done!

[JamieG]

Maybe they’d just seen your one armers and wanted some of the action . . .

[Camo]

By the looks of them they’d have taken any action they could get - which is saying something as facially I resemble shrek