[spidermonkey09]

Nice one Simon, psyched!

Rotation of one day at piscineta, one day in Mascun continues. Highlight this week was doing an amazing 7c+ at Piscineta called der des ders (translates as last of the last, a French ww1 thing). Incredible bouldery climbing between kneebars on pristine rough tufas on 35 degree overhanging wall. I have been really spoiled by climbing here as the rest of Rodellar feels incredibly polished by comparison. It's still great, but I definitely feel that a) it is probably a better area for those knocking out steep 8s quickly, which I am not with my current levels of bouldering power and b) it's best days may be behind it in the 7s at least. Have also tried No Limit at Surgencia but got shut down: first 10m is incredibly hard to compensate for the 10m of 6a climbing that follows.

Had two sessions on Adios Pepito, the classic Piscineta 8a. Much more my style being 40m of pure endurance without any bouldery sections. Felt impossible and very run out to start with but made some good links today and know where the knees are now so am hopeful of getting that done in the next 10 days, after which I'm off to Siurana for a bit. If not, never mind!

[andy_e]

Can we ban Jim from posting until he gets back from his trip?

[abarro81]

Given that you just did bat route, "boulder power" per se seems unlikely to be a limiting factor in onsighting 8a in rodellar, let alone doing them fast. More likely to be a stylistic issue - comfort on the terrain, being strong at thug etc as it sounds like your experience of harder sport is v malham focused?

May just be semantics but I just found it too weird to read to resist commenting!

[shark]

I got completely shut down in Rodellar and took refuge in trying one of the few vert-ish routes there

[gollum]

I never liked the feet-follows-hands rule in the past but have accepted it's a style I'm not good at but will be good for me if I sick at it. Definite improvements after just a few sessions but I'd find it hard to use the moonboard and not the woodies at the depot.

Yep, that about sums it up for me

[tomtom]

(disclaimer - I've never been or seen a moonboard)

I was gently trying to persuade a local wall owner to invest in a MB and one of the reasons he wasnt so keen was that it was short... (as in few moves).

(true? Shrugs)

[abarro81]

No more or less true than any other board of the same height and angle!

[tomtom]

No more or less true than any other board of the same height and angle!

Really?? wow!

[abarro81]

Like magic innit..

[teestub]

Moon boards are essentially ‘normal’ board size but have been dwarfed in recent years by the massive Beastmaker style boards like the depot examples.

[highrepute]

Nice one Simon. Shame the weather is so crap that you can't carry your success onto the oak. If you don't manage to get it done how about some oak style bouldering over the winter? I guess anything steep and powerful will do. I guess you've done gorilla warfare etc.

Friday
couple of hours at the works. some how got RR to sleep in the buggy in the climbing wall. bit out of shape and cold coming on meant really ached the next day. concentrated of roofy stuff.

Summary
ribs feeling much better. But staying off one armed stuff for a little bit.

[cheque]

ribs feeling much better.

 

[shark]

Nice one Simon. Shame the weather is so crap that you can't carry your success onto the oak. If you don't manage to get it done how about some oak style bouldering over the winter?

Thanks James - yes that’s the vague plan

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - some system stuff, tired. Weights.
Tue - rest.
Wed - fingers, BM pockets very strong. Weights.
Thu - PE low +8 kg 30" x10, tired but did it. Weights.
Fri - weights.
Sat - rest.
Sun - weights.

[SA Chris]

M - nowt
T - nowt
W - no bouldering, 5 k run and quick relook at some boulders I've not been to for a while. Surrounded by gorse now, had to choose between nettles and gorse to get out, opted for nettles.
T - lunch hill reps. I hate hill reps. Necessary evil though.
F - nothing
S - climbing wall with kids in afternoon, grabbed a couple of probs between belay duties. Shoulder feeling OK, until i tried to do an awkward press problem in a corner.
S - long run in afternoon - 21 km. felt OK, only needed a brief interlude in bushes after Wagamamma curry took sudden effect....

[Mr E S Capegoat]

So with Doylo’s backing I wanted to introduce a new form of sports performance psychology nearly exclusively to power club members. It was devised only today while eating a cheese toastie accompanied by a bag of salt n shake crisps. The approach is called ‘Gumpisms’. It basically uses wisdom extracted from the script of the film Forest Gump to help break plateaus in performance and provide a more wholistic vision of our pursuit. The assessment phase is free and then it will cost £10 per gumpism used. The assessment process will be carried out by our specialist team of ‘gumpspurts’ based at multiple centres in the Sheffield area. It will involve deep profiling of stuck states with a free initial gumpism provided at the end to get you started. One of my favourites so far, and might I add one that seems to break the deadlock is ‘Stupid is as stupid does, my mammy used to say’

[shark]

(Rich says hi).

Heard his cv was doing the rounds a while back and “looked to be good to be true” (non climber comment) 

Presume he’s blagged his way into corporate land. He’ll go far

[duncan]

Simon, what do you think nudged you over the line? Why October 2019 and not before?

STG: continue rehab. Try some vertical 7as.
MTG: 7b+ by the end of the year.
LTG: tbc

M - 7km slow jog. Shoulder strength: one arm planks, side planks, IsYsTs (one arm at a time, so more like I k r).
T - Fingerboard, 18mm edge: pick-ups and one arm assisted hangs.
W - Fingerboard, 18mm edge
T - Hip stretches
F - Westway bouldering to ’V2’. Sore elbow and shoulder.
S - Shoulder strength: planks, side planks, IsYsTs. Hip and knee strength.
S - Shoulder strength  7km slow jog.

Shoulder much better, elbow taking time but going in the right direction. Siurana in two weeks: I’ve done two days of easy sport and no route training at all in the last 9 months. Onsighting will not be pretty! Hope this will encourage me to embrace redpointing more fully.

[Ballsofcottonwool]

M: nothing, normally its turbo trainer night,  but bike was in pieces waiting for a new chainset.
T: nothing
W: Avertical World bouldering, 35deg board Black x3 Green x3 attempts, Moonboard Benchmarks 2x6A+ flashed, 2x6A+ 2nd go,  2 attempts each on another 5 other 6A+ benchmarks, 1x attempt each on first 7x6B benchmarks
T:nothing
F: Supposed to be at Transition Extreme climbing with the kids in the evening, but house was total carnage after 1st day of tattie holidays, so spent the evening and most of Saturday morning tidying up instead
S: nothing
S: Aviemore with the family to support wife doing the 10k race. Walked the kids all the way across town 1.5miles and back to the Route7 café for a great breakfast. 3.5mile walk around Loch Morlich with the whole family in the afternoon to stop Jay's legs seizing up. 6.5mile total farthest I've walked all year, legs still aching on Tuesday.

STG(November) Moonboard 6C

MTG(spring clean) clear the shite out of the garage so I have somewhere to train at home again.

LTG    Moonboard 7A,   f8a route

[shark]

Simon, what do you think nudged you over the line? Why October 2019 and not before?

Nudging over the line is about right as I was close several times before but I was always trying whereas last Friday I was all over it.

Not really sure but factors that may have helped
- Being 2kg+ lighter
- The recent campus training making the penultimate lunge move easier and with slightly better contact strength and control
- Better stamina from going on Mescalito and AeroCap systems board work

My core was also stronger releasing the first kneebar for the kick move but I’m not sure why - lack of lard? practicing for and doing the Oak throw move?

[SA Chris]

Heard his cv was doing the rounds a while back and “looked to be good to be true” (non climber comment) 

Presume he’s blagged his way into corporate land. He’ll go far

LOL. Like to see that - fictional work.

[Yossarian]

M - Wall. Decent board session. Finally despatched main project that has proved remarkably stubborn. Got one move further on the next one, before finger split. Ticked a couple of problems downstairs that had resisted previous attempts.
T - Weighted pull-ups / assisted 1-arms. Will add / remove weight next time.
W - Yoga and stretching.
T - Wall. Quiet afternoon session. Similar to Monday, but with a bit less oomph. Ended up downstairs doing 3 sets of 6x problems in descending difficulty with v short rests. Quite hard work, though in retrospect I could prob do with getting pumped a bit more often as I’m a bit worried about route fitness slipping away.
F
S - Wall. Good board session again and then 6x6 of Thursday’s protocol. Knackered by the end.
S - Insanely tired and snoozed lots.

RH index finger PIP has been getting swollen and making weird clicking noises. Fingers in generally feel quite tweaky, so prob best to have an easier week.

Desperate to get out on some rock. Everything local is soaked. Had hoped to get out on the Friday, but forecast for the SW was abysmal. Aiming to escape coming Friday (i.e. tomorrow - originally plan was to head to Cheddar to shunt some stuff on the wave but I think it’s going to be raining. Contemplating diverting to Churnet or Peak instead, which is a major mission for a day trip without an early start, but desperate times, etc...