Sacking it off for the year? Come on shark, show some commitment to the route
yoss, have you tried Seven Months Later on the wave at Cheddar? seems like the sort of thing you'd do ok at.
What's the beta for tech 9, it should be my bag but can't touch it! Last time it was from connies though
It's worth bearing in mind that the second bolt (which Shark has done the route from as a "training link") is at about shoulder height...
Olly Grounsell did Liquid Ambar from the first bolt a few years ago and never finished it.
Cheers! Next time I'll sit under it. Not got a fan yet so will have to be a windy day
Quote from: Will Hunt on September 09, 2019, 05:52:08 pmIt's worth bearing in mind that the second bolt (which Shark has done the route from as a "training link") is at about shoulder height...Not quite but you can touch the left foothold I use from the ground
What’s your high point?
Is it legit to have the third bolt preclipped?
Quote from: SA Chris on September 09, 2019, 05:34:33 pmSacking it off for the year? Come on shark, show some commitment to the route Tally so far is 9 sessions Feb-April 2 random sessions in June and then 7 sessions since middle of August.
S - Malham in the afternoon for a redpoint. Through bulge and high on headwall with relative ease. Felt good in undercut rest so went for it but gassed on crimps almost immediately and came off at the same old place. So annoying as the rest of it is fine. Not sure how much more I can do this season; will try again next weekend but that might be it if no luck. Felt like bad conditions again; not a breath of wind. That said, Jerome pissed it so maybe I need to stop moaning!Pissed off with lack of tick for all the effort put in. Looking forward to going to Spain!
Quote from: monkoffunk on September 10, 2019, 01:06:37 amWhat’s your high point?One reach from easier climbing. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tc0rBjvYknQ&feature=youtu.be
Not read properly for a while...did you do any tapering for a peak?In my (limited) experience, if I keep falling off at the same place then that bit needs a little rethink. Could be a beta change, or perhaps on the sharp-end you're failing to execute your beta properly, is there a clip you could skip, is the rest before this section being used effectively (I've founding counting breaths useful for when mental stress is sending me off rather than climbing ability...have a think maybe.Your last comment makes it sound like the effort you've put should make you entitled to the tick. Is that a fair assessment?Other than that keep trying!
Apologies for the long self indulgent ramble!
but the central problem is that I am too pumped/fatigued to close a crimp regardless of the sequence I use to get there. Closing this crimp quickly and feeling strong on the hold is the key; if I do this on a link go I almost always go to the top.
Quote from: shark on September 09, 2019, 05:40:32 pmQuote from: SA Chris on September 09, 2019, 05:34:33 pmSacking it off for the year? Come on shark, show some commitment to the route Tally so far is 9 sessions Feb-April 2 random sessions in June and then 7 sessions since middle of August.Surprised you're talking about sacking it off, have conditions even got good yet this autumn?Try to enjoy the process and keep trying, would be my advice that you didn't ask for and don't want!