[Blintflint]

Anyone have any tips for actually sending shit and not falling off the top of a project a thousand times? I'm so often physically capable of doing the climb but the actual send takes so long it gets frustrating. Even with being solid at doing it in two over-laping sections. I think it's more mental than anything else, getting gripped because I'm almost at the end. Any advice to avoid this would be much appreciated?

[tomtom]

I take a very analytical view of it. I find out where my weakest point (which may be mental weakness or strength) is on the problem then work it until it goes fairly straightforwardly. Sometimes this may even be the top out or rehearsing what to do once the crux is done. Of course there are percentage moves and sometimes you have to just accept that - but you can lower the percentage of failure for all the bits around it.

I am a very incremnetal climber though - if I accidentally climb a crux I've not done before I'll often drop off instead of trying to stick it out to the top :D

Other things I have done is chant to myself under my breath - smooth and fast - smooth and fast - smooth and fast. Which can keep me focussed. When I was learning to snowboard and had real problems linking my turns I used to chant speed is my friend, speed is my friend, speed is my friend (to myself) all the way down... But I don't do that very often :D

[Blintflint]

Thanks mate.
Definitely dialling down the end moves/topout does help. Sometimes though I find I'm at the end and I know what to do and feel fine but just get so gripped I fluff it.
 Smooth and fast chanting sounds interesting. Anything that can get me out of that overthinking/fear of failure headspace and into the elusive zone is worth a try.

[36chambers]

I just try to think of every attempt as a casual working go. I climb significantly worse if I get too focused and psyched for something.

[Blintflint]

Yeah I get you. Its all about tricking the mind sometimes I reckon; a 'quick evening session' with less focus can often produce better results. I need to keep that in mind more thanks.

[shark]

Its a big subject and you'll benefit from reading Lanny Bashum's 'With Winning in Mind' and Jerry's 'Mastermind'. A lot revolves around mental rehearsal.   

[Blintflint]

Haven't read Bashum so will give that a go thanks. Read Mastermind a couple times but maybe time for a refresher. Yeah its a big subject and difficult to analyse what's going wrong.

[tomtom]

Pre climb I visualise Shark failing on the last/penultimate move and me smoothly pulling through to the top next.. 😂😃😱

[Blintflint]

THIS is the type of visualisation I need    Other peeps falling off brings that psyche

[Fiend]

Good topic, good question.

I don't know much about long term projecting as it bores me, so take this with a pinch of salt.

Getting value from the process can be really useful to avoid the detriments of too much attachment to the end result, and summit fever. It can take that mental pressure of if the act of working the problem feels really enjoyable, beneficial, progressive, etc. If so, you've already getting something good on each attempt, and that can stop you over-focusing on trying to get the "end-result" good of success.

Also, in the moment, it could help to keep trying to focus on what you're actually doing at that moment, i.e. climbing, pulling on holds, etc. If you can maintain that focus towards the end, even distilling it down to the feel of the holds, the texture, the pressure through your toes, the timing as you move dynamically, that could keep the summit fever clutter out.

Further, to go along with the above and what tomtom suggested - make sure you totally refine the latter sections of a problem, including what it will feel like when you're tired, what errors could creep in and how manageable they are. Having a very clear, very positive sequence will make focusing purely on the moves easier, as you won't be second guessing and you'll be guided by a clear plan to follow.

Hth.
Fiend.
UBLLX Flow Ambassador

[Blintflint]

Nice one guys. Sounds like concentrating on performance and not getting overly psyched for the send is the way to go. Seems obvious when I write it out its just putting it into practice...

[shark]

Nice one guys. Sounds like concentrating on performance and not getting overly psyched for the send is the way to go. Seems obvious when I write it out its just putting it into practice...

Depends - some people need to psyche up for the send and others to calm down. You need to apply it to your own strengths and weaknesses.

Anything that gets in the way of limiting your performance (mentally and physically) you should be looking to minimise or eliminate one way or another.

[Oldmanmatt]

Nice one guys. Sounds like concentrating on performance and not getting overly psyched for the send is the way to go. Seems obvious when I write it out its just putting it into practice...

Depends - some people need to psyche up for the send and others to calm down. You need to apply it to your own strengths and weaknesses.

Anything that gets in the way of limiting your performance (mentally and physically) you should be looking to minimise or eliminate one way or another.

Can I add the word “Identify” in, before “minimise or eliminate”?

That also links into the current Power Club thread.

[shark]

In terms of advice of ‘Not giving a shit’ I think there is a kernel of truth in the that as in giving and not giving a shit at the same time.

Steve Davis once talked about snooker pressure pots where he said that potting the ball required a mental state where it meant everything and nothing.

In rugby they talk about TCUP - thinking correctly under pressure

[spidermonkey09]

Anyone have any tips for actually sending shit and not falling off the top of a project a thousand times? I'm so often physically capable of doing the climb but the actual send takes so long it gets frustrating. Even with being solid at doing it in two over-laping sections. I think it's more mental than anything else, getting gripped because I'm almost at the end. Any advice to avoid this would be much appreciated?

As Shark says, massive topic. Its amazing how much of redpointing/project climbing is in the mind.

A couple of things I have learned is to always try and take a positive from every session, even if it feels hard at the time as you're driving home pissed off. If you think about it there is normally something you can spin into a positive; stronger on one specific move even if you felt weaker on all the others, a new foot sequence, some other tiny bit of beta. I also try and avoid the 'white line fever' that can cause one to drop something at the top due to nerves by having the top sections of routes absolutely dialled to the point of climbing them under hypnosis! This has paid off numerous times when really stressed at final rests before the comparatively 'easy' last few metres of climbing; often I have started doing moves on autopilot before my brain has processed it.

[shark]

Made a few changes on the thread. PM me if you feel you need to.

Carry on...

[user deactivated]

Ah cool, that’s great. I’ll post up a sensible reply and then I think I’m off the site. As I said to Simon in a pm it’s hard to balance the sort of irreverent questioning of the current state of climbing with a moderately offensive fanzine and a genuine care about people, mental health and the impact of performance ideals created by the culture and society at large. It gives me a bit of anxiety about my job, which is sensitive. So think it’s time to stop. My advice if it’s worth a penny is move towards dropping performance related goals or at least placing them at the bottom of the pile of reasons for being out (I’m sure you do this anyway) Peace out, and time for me to go.

[Blintflint]

Climbing badly makes the drive home hell however short. Need more positive thought in life in general so something to work on for sure. Absolutely dialling the top I think will be the way forward for the moment. Hopefully that will help me send more and in turn help with confidence for future projects

[Blintflint]

Dan-- Hope this thread hasn't made you want to leave the site. As stated your comments whilst confusing were not offensive so no worries there. Thanks for the serious advice anyway, a more casual frame of mind would be a good thing, just easier said than done.

[Blintflint]

Shark--  yeah I agree. Its that personal balance between psyche and staying calm. Just need to find the sweet spot

[abarro81]

Just watch the Sharma Dosage 1 clips of Biographie before every redpoint, that should do it.

[jwi]

I am probably the last person who could/should give advice.

Anyway.

I find that on routes that takes more than a handful of goes it help to focus on some important facet of the performance. E.g. if it is important to climb fast on the last bit, put spare focus on trying to climb it as fast as possible, or if it is fiddly/techy focus on the feeling of balance. Et cetera.

[SA Chris]

Depends - some people need to psyche up for the send and others to calm down.

Psyche up but don't psyche out. A lot of self deceit helps. Telling yourself you are just going for a burn on it, but deep down wanting it at the same time.

[Blintflint]

Just watch the Sharma Dosage 1 clips of Biographie before every redpoint, that should do it.

Liked the philosophical quote 'Just wasn't the right time you know'. Perservering is key I guess

[grimer]

Two significant growts in my mental performance came from top climbers. One was talking to Marc LeMenestrel the time he came and did the second ascent of Brad Pit in three tries or something right off the plane (Then UK's highest-graded boulder problem I think - what is it with those LeMenestrels?), the first flash - i think - of Deliverance and Jerry's Traverse.

He talked about enjoying the process in a way that really sank in. Of enjoying every move on every attempt, and learning from every experience of it. It really sank home, turning every experience into a success.

The other was writing the Jerry Moffatt book (available for 9.99 from all good bookshops), and what I took from that was how much he enjoyed giving 100%. I took this in. I sometimes find myself sessioning a problem with some friends and then going, Right, watch this, and firing off the problem, Jerry style. So it was about not seeing trying your hardest as some sort of chore, but as having the best time of your life.

So the core of both these is enjoyment.