[Ged]

Given my newfound post-baby path as a boulderer, and given the fact that we seem to be going down to see friends near St Ives fairly regularly, I'm after tips from those in the know.

Any recommendations for good stuff 7A upwards. I've done a fair bit at Godrevy (temp passe LH and RH, pisspot, that slopey traverse thing), Carn Galver arete, a bit at aire point years ago, bloodsport and boomerang at clodgy, and that's it. Ideally nothing requiring tons of pads and spotters, but not averse to some height.

The stuff near Carn goose looks good, forget the names but a 7B and a highball e6/7A thing. Anything else worthy at godrevy? And other hidden gems on the tors or coast?

Thanks in advance to those in the know

Ged

[kingholmesy]

Hi Ged.

The place you’re thinking of near Carn Gloose is called Priests Cove. The Dreamboat (7A+/7Bish) is good. 2 pads recommended cos it goes sideways, but not too high. The arête is called Bad Breath. I backed off it so can’t say for certain, but it’s probably a bit soft for E6. A strong line & doable on your own with a couple of pads if you’re feeling brave. Overall it’s a good boulder, but can be a bit slow to dry. There’s a topo on UKC.

The other obvious suggestion is Carn Brea. No topos online, but there’s some info in Boulder Britain. Plenty to do around the 7A mark.

Hopefully Danny of this parish will be along shortly as he’s got much better knowledge.

[kingholmesy]

Ps Priests Cove isn’t really suitable for young kids IMO, but Carn Brea would be ok with little people if that’s a factor.

There’s also a handful of solos around the Messenger From The Furnace area of Sennen where the hard bit on each of them is at boulder / highball height, but they wouldn’t be my first choice (not least cos it’s a pain in the ass getting pads down there).

BTW - anyone know if Messenger has been repeated?

[Andy W]

If you’re near or in St ives, there is moorland Zennor and the zennor fool down at coast level. Godrevy has some harder problems than the ones you mention, Clodgy as well, the Australia boulder has plenty of variations/linkups harder than 7A if you want a quick fix. Around St Just you have priests cove as mentioned and a few good problems at Boswalis (probably spelt wrong). Also the wave at North Cliffs.

[tomtom]

Good tips all - down Sennen/St Ives way for 10 days in late June...

[petekitso]

Another vote for Carn Brea. It’s a beautiful spot with lots of smaller boulders for kids to play on (although a couple of hidden drops to watch out for) and 360 views. Cold if it’s windy.

There are a couple of fairly stiff (at least for me) 7As, bloodstone Arete and crystalline entity. They are in boulder Britain I think and there is a video somewhere of Barney Carver (?) pathing both of them.

Not that close to Sennen but a good stop off

[SA Chris]

Carn Brea is great, especially if you can collar a knowledgeable local.

Assume you have downloaded this http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/Stives/BoulderingInStIves2007.pdf

Bit out of date, but good for referencing location of harder new stuff.

[Andy W]

TBH I wouldn't recommend granite moorland bouldering in the summer, unless its windy and chilly, which of course is not unusual in Cornwall summertime.

[Ged]

If you’re near or in St ives, there is moorland Zennor and the zennor fool down at coast level. Godrevy has some harder problems than the ones you mention, Clodgy as well, the Australia boulder has plenty of variations/linkups harder than 7A if you want a quick fix. Around St Just you have priests cove as mentioned and a few good problems at Boswalis (probably spelt wrong). Also the wave at North Cliffs.

What's the pick of the harder Godrevy and Clodgy stuff Andy? I tried Crackpot and couldn't for the life of me figure out how to start it.

Also, The Wave at North Cliffs, where's this?

Cheers

[Danny]

Godrevy:

Blacking out the Friction (7C) and Backing RH (7B) have probably the nicest holds in all of Cornwall. Virginia (7A) and Trigonometry (7A)/Evening Light (7A+) worth a bash (you'll need a shovel to fill in the rockpool).

Brea:

Worth it, so long as you care for skin. 6 7s worth doing IMO: Pond Wall (7A), Bloodstone Arete (7A), Crystalline Entity (7A), Evening Song (7B+), Pickled Walnut SS (7A), Snoopy (7B). Patchy info on UKC.

Priest's Cove:

Deffo worth a visit (see UKC for topo). Also hard on the skin. In addition to what's there I added Dreamgoat (7A), a really nice highball next to Bad Breath, and Ewe-Boat (7B) which is good, steep climbing, starting below the jug flake and taking a line between Dreamboat and Axiomatic. I posted some stuff on the West Cornwall Training and Bouldering FB group about these a while back.

Najulian:

The Weapon (7B+) is a cool compression prow with some degree of blinkering required.

St Loy:

Tidal boulder below the main crag has a great 7A+ called Helter Skelter and other worthwhile stuff dotted along the coast.

Pendnvounder:

Lovely beach with stuff upto 7B (called Sam Bam, IIRC, search youtube). Worthwhile, but no clear info on problems as of yet.

Bashers Cove:

Also worth a visit, but only if it's been super dry (deets somewhere on the West Cornwall FB group).

Pentire:

Not super local, but a few good 7s to go at (in Boulder Britain).

Boscawen Point:

Nice venue, if a little remote. Young Blood (6C) is as good as it gets, and Pushguard (7C) is also meaty AF.

Should keep you entertained!

[Ged]

Thanks Danny, that's brilliant. Loads to go out. Will let you know what I find.

WRT to the godrevy stuff, where are those probs? I can never seem to find the online guide, and therefore always fail to find stuff. I know where crackpot and temp passe is, so any ref from them would be great!

[Andy W]

Thanks Danny, that's brilliant. Loads to go out. Will let you know what I find.

WRT to the godrevy stuff, where are those probs? I can never seem to find the online guide, and therefore always fail to find stuff. I know where crackpot and temp passe is, so any ref from them would be great!

Ged, if you are facing crackpot/pisspot, turn around and you will see blacking out the friction.

[Ged]

Thanks. What am I looking for?

[Andy W]

Thanks. What am I looking for?

I thought you were looking for blacking out the friction?

It's on this vid about 2 mins in     

[BuzyG]

Great little video.