When I read "Crimpd finger strength testing session" I assumed (maybe wrongly) that we were talking the Lattice edge.. in which case my PB is 2kg assist (for 5s hang) at a point when I weighted ~70kg; which means for me this is strong enough for (roughly) 8Bish...
I think they changed it because they found it correlated better if they forced 1/2 crimp - probably it kills some weird outliers like Ella (who is about 10kg stronger on a 3 finger drag than a 4 finger half crimp!)...
You're better off asking Lattice rather than me...
It’s a tricky one this shark as dragging brings skin surface tension more into play which I’m sure reduced the reliability of the results? Maybe Barrows can explain better? I tend to benchmark with my half crimp or chisel
Quote from: Dan Cheetham on May 16, 2019, 10:42:52 pmIt’s a tricky one this shark as dragging brings skin surface tension more into play which I’m sure reduced the reliability of the results? Maybe Barrows can explain better? I tend to benchmark with my half crimp or chiselGet that but not going to let a boy with a clipboard ‘drag’ my score and self-esteem down from 8a to 7b
The only comparative that i care about is improvement against my own scores.
... not going to let a boy with a clipboard ‘drag’ my score and self-esteem down from 8a to 7b
then the strongest one that you’d default to on the route.
Hanging one arm from the middle slot of a bm2k = 8B strength?For real??
Quote from: shark on May 17, 2019, 10:11:02 amThe only comparative that i care about is improvement against my own scores.Quote from: shark on May 17, 2019, 10:16:35 am... not going to let a boy with a clipboard ‘drag’ my score and self-esteem down from 8a to 7b
Quote from: Murph on May 15, 2019, 06:35:16 pmHanging one arm from the middle slot of a bm2k = 8B strength?For real??Am I wrong in thinking it doesn't mean you are 8b strong, it just means by this arbitrary measure you are comparable to people who have climbed 8b?
Which I must be a bit of an outlier as I've never hung bodyweight on a 20mm, and have done 8A+/8B...
But the strongest arms Coops
Dave Graham has climbed 8C+ and I know he’d be wank at these one arm tests. I’ve seen him try to hang off one arm. Then are ‘punters’-who measure 8B strength on the tests
The Lattice references work the other way round, that is not in a predictive way. They are the result of testing people that have climbed a certain grade and not of training people on the Edge until they reach a certain level on that and then letting them out on rock to see which grade they can climb.