I will be interested to see the results of this. I can see your theory in terms of joint angle etc. but I'm curious about the transferability of having the fingers separated like this, when on a majority of holds on rock climbs your first three fingers (at least) are working together on relatively planar surfaces.
I suppose you could make it adjustable for the most common variation of finger length. I'd imagine pinky - ring being the greatest variation?
Does the Anderson fingerboard not already do the 'ergonomic' thing, by splitting the board and angling each part inwards?
Quote from: teestub on March 18, 2019, 12:31:14 pmI will be interested to see the results of this. I can see your theory in terms of joint angle etc. but I'm curious about the transferability of having the fingers separated like this, when on a majority of holds on rock climbs your first three fingers (at least) are working together on relatively planar surfaces.I agree and needs to be complemented with regular grip types. For my warm up I start with drag, half crimp, strict half crimp and full crimp on a regular edge.
As for the above question, in my opinion it's a matter, as usual, of potential. That is, stronger fingers will perform better on different holds, than weaker fingers, ceteris paribus.
Yetix- maybe Dupetrens contracture? (Spelling prob wrong)
Quote from: tomtom on March 18, 2019, 01:50:08 pmYetix- maybe Dupetrens contracture? (Spelling prob wrong)I wondered that, but I'm quite young to have it (turned 27 today) and most suggest it happens in the later 30s onwards?
Quote from: tomtom on March 18, 2019, 01:50:08 pmYetix- maybe Dupetrens contracture? (Spelling prob wrong)I wondered that, but I'm quite young to have it (turned 27 today) and most suggest it happens in the later 30s onwards? If it is that, does it tend to impact climbing too much?
Work is just super depressing at the moment with redundancies and uncertainty about the future.
If normal fingerboarding leaves behind the ring and pinky, unfulfilling their strength potential, something gets lost.
Quote from: Nibile on March 18, 2019, 01:39:42 pmAs for the above question, in my opinion it's a matter, as usual, of potential. That is, stronger fingers will perform better on different holds, than weaker fingers, ceteris paribus. How about “digitos paribus” as a catchy slogan.
T - Rest. Elbow rehab.
Thanks Nick and thanks others for responses.Nice to know it doesn't impact most people's climbing on here (if that's what it is)
Quote from: Nibile on March 18, 2019, 01:39:42 pm If normal fingerboarding leaves behind the ring and pinky, unfulfilling their strength potential, something gets lost. If you’re concerned about your little finger and ring finger not getting the required workout why not isolate them as recommended by the beastmaker chaps about a decade ago?
Quote from: AMorris on March 18, 2019, 02:57:31 pmT - Rest. Elbow rehab.Hi A, what elbow rehab do you do? I've recently got sore elbows again so would be interested to hear of your tips?Thanks, Coops
Quote from: yetix on March 18, 2019, 02:30:22 pmThanks Nick and thanks others for responses.Nice to know it doesn't impact most people's climbing on here (if that's what it is)Bear in mid it can get worse though, Bonjoy had surgery, as has PoD. Apparently Glucosamine Sulphate can make it worse.
Quote from: Coops_13 on March 18, 2019, 03:14:55 pmQuote from: AMorris on March 18, 2019, 02:57:31 pmT - Rest. Elbow rehab.Hi A, what elbow rehab do you do? I've recently got sore elbows again so would be interested to hear of your tips?Thanks, CoopsWhat kind of elbow pain? I would say the most common in climbers is some kind of tendonitis or tendonosis of the medial epicondyle (unfortunately I have the latter). There are a few other types, each which require a different set of exercises, but the philosophy is the same.