T: Free bar all night. Messy. F: Dying of hangover. S: started feeling really weird. Hot, shaky, bit nauseous.
Out of interest Simon. What are your best links on the Oak and when did they occur?I remember seeing you do quite a good one a few years ago from not many moves in to the top. You were so casual that when I started shouting encouragement you were able to reply "this is not a redpoint!".
I still get tense watching that video Simon
Have any questions been raised yet about having the 3rd bolt pre-clipped?
Welcome to the 2 day hangover. Definitely a middle age thing.
From this armchair, it doesn't look like you were fighting to stay on there. It looks like you initiate the move and then just give up.
Quote from: highrepute on December 04, 2018, 06:30:05 amOut of interest Simon. What are your best links on the Oak and when did they occur?I remember seeing you do quite a good one a few years ago from not many moves in to the top. You were so casual that when I started shouting encouragement you were able to reply "this is not a redpoint!".Hi James - yes I think that was one of the times I went from the second bolt (which is 4 moves in) to the top. I'd have to check but I think I did that link for the first time in 2015 and then a couple of times since. The Autumn of 2015 was my best season on it when I managed to get through the horn move 3x in a session and got my all-time highpoint which is in the video below:
What do you think has stopped you sending?
They have a crack machine now? That's new since I was last there; can't wait to get back there and check it out. Anyway, I'm delighted it lived up to the billing!
Great video that Simon. How many moves from salvation are you there? I think Tanya fell off around there over the summer from what I've been told.
Do you have a video of that link from 4 moves in? Based on that performance you must know you can do it, right? At least physically you have it within you? What do you think has stopped you sending?
In an ideal world there would be a rattly fingers crack (~1”) too but I’m not complaining. I love how they surely know it won’t get much use but built it anyway because a serious training facility should have one.
Currently features tight hands, bomber hands and baggy hands. In an ideal world there would be a rattly fingers crack (~1”) too but I’m not complaining.