Tim Palmer opined that were it off the deck, the bat route bulge would be 7a+. Opinions?
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on December 03, 2018, 09:09:18 amTim Palmer opined that were it off the deck, the bat route bulge would be 7a+. Opinions?He's probably just being nice and he actually thinks it's more like 6C
virgin post here. Having a newborn at home makes touching rock nowadays near impossible.
With Nick’s prompting decided on Saturday to take 10 days off – possibly more. This feels like a big step. The longest break I’ve had all year was 5 days off at the end of June after I had two teeth extracted. Other than that my longest rests have been 3 days (x4). Apart from the physical side I’ve taken a bit of mental battering doing badly on the Oak in the Autumn and my strategy of juggling several other secondary projects in the lead up to it (Bens Roof, Anger Management, Roof Warrior, Moffatrocity, Soul Crusher) backfired badly as I ended up in succeeding on none of them. Hopefully taking some time out should help regain some perspective and positivity.
This sounds like a good plan.Historically Simon, have your notable successes on problems or routes come from the above approach or from single minded sieging? I've always thought that given none of us are full time 'athletes,' given we're juggling work and life as well as climbing, the most efficient way to get something done should logically be specifically training for that and only that. Thats certainly what has worked for me thus far, but I am yet to burn out on something (it'll happen!) so understand how one could end up thinking the opposite. Interested to hear how people have managed this in general actually.
Single minded seiging has always been my thing. Mixing it up this year with several projects was an attempt to introduce a bit more variety and volume. Also I am to all intents a full time athlete now since resigning from the BMC - my wife describes me as a 'professional climber who doesn't get paid'. My business activities are organised deliberately to be minimally time-consuming and living in Sheffield means it is easy to get out. I'd love to just go outside climbing all the time but I recognise that wont get me up the Oak. I had 24 sessions on the Oak this year. Next Spring if I don't get through past the horn in 3 or 4 sessions then my winter training objective will have failed. I'm aiming that the indoor training will be 100% geared towards the Oak. In fact I'd be quite keen at some stage to have a session with you on the Oak replica at the Depot you mentioned and your welcome to have a go at my replica problems on my home board provided you don't leave your draws in them.
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on November 22, 1974, 08:42:59 pmI'd be quite keen at some stage to have a session with you on the Oak replica at the Depot you mentioned and your welcome to have a go at my replica problems on my home board provided you don't leave your draws in them.You're more than welcome to make the effort to go and try Austrian Mock but I don't think it's the best representation of it being crimps on a 50 degree board. But then again I haven't done either this or the real think so what do I know.
I'd be quite keen at some stage to have a session with you on the Oak replica at the Depot you mentioned and your welcome to have a go at my replica problems on my home board provided you don't leave your draws in them.
I've noticed your window for trying it is quite short; ie spring and autumn. Is that because the Oak takes a bit longer to dry than other routes and/or that it becomes unclimbable in warmer conditions?
I've made big gains in the past trying things in considerably less than mint conditions which has perhaps meant I've made quicker progress when they improved. Equally those two things may not be linked. Also, does the section to the horn actually get wet? Is it plausible to keep your eye in on it on a sunny day over the winter to make any necessary adjustments?
You're more than welcome to make the effort to go and try Austrian Mock but I don't think it's the best representation of it being crimps on a 50 degree board. But then again I haven't done either this or the real think so what do I know.
Quote from: jamesturnbull97 on December 03, 2018, 04:46:02 pmYou're more than welcome to make the effort to go and try Austrian Mock but I don't think it's the best representation of it being crimps on a 50 degree board. But then again I haven't done either this or the real think so what do I know.To be fair, the move that I can see as being halfway representative is that cross through with the left hand to an undercut. The rest of it, god knows.
It's barely board 7B
So it’s not an Oak replica - it just happens to have an Oak like move
Quote from: tomtom on December 02, 2018, 08:42:10 pmI'm going to structure my week a little differently....PositivesM: Went to Craig Y Longridge - got spanked by Big Marine even more so than usual - but did Fertile Delta lots of times - apart from the final move(s) - the ones after the luuuurvely sidepull. So, I didnt do it etc.."the ones after the luuuurvely sidepull"... isn't there just one move after the sikka'd sidepull? Get the sikka'd hold as a sidepull (or a gaston if you are an eliminate loving traditionalist)... smear-up and hit the top?
I'm going to structure my week a little differently....PositivesM: Went to Craig Y Longridge - got spanked by Big Marine even more so than usual - but did Fertile Delta lots of times - apart from the final move(s) - the ones after the luuuurvely sidepull. So, I didnt do it etc..
Last week slab_happy described blocfit thus:Quote from: slab_happy on November 12, 2018, 02:54:44 pmIt's tiny and scrappy and can only be found by venturing down an underground tunnel filled with garages; I felt like I probably lost years off my life from the petrol fumes. What you see in the photo on the website is most of the wall -- there's a balcony which (IIRC) has TRX stuff, and a weights area under it, and that's it. I liked it a lot!The Board de Lune is 40 degrees so don't know if that's a dealbreaker for you. It's all very short so would be ankle-friendly.It would be absolute rubbish if you want to boulder and have lots of nice new problems each time, but would be very good for doing focused training because it doesn't give you any other options.Forgot to say, nice atmosphere -- based on one visit, it seemed friendly but non-intrusive and not snobby. Obvious assumption that if you're there you're there to train and have your own plans for what you want to do, but no sense that anyone who's not doing 1-5-9 is out of place.That’s an excellent summary. I thought it was great and totally what I’m after. I imagine it will appeal to more than a few Power Clubbers. They also had a crack machine (a little expando.at present) and King Tubby on the Hi Fi, both of which made an old man very happy! Plan: more of the same.
It's tiny and scrappy and can only be found by venturing down an underground tunnel filled with garages; I felt like I probably lost years off my life from the petrol fumes. What you see in the photo on the website is most of the wall -- there's a balcony which (IIRC) has TRX stuff, and a weights area under it, and that's it. I liked it a lot!The Board de Lune is 40 degrees so don't know if that's a dealbreaker for you. It's all very short so would be ankle-friendly.It would be absolute rubbish if you want to boulder and have lots of nice new problems each time, but would be very good for doing focused training because it doesn't give you any other options.Forgot to say, nice atmosphere -- based on one visit, it seemed friendly but non-intrusive and not snobby. Obvious assumption that if you're there you're there to train and have your own plans for what you want to do, but no sense that anyone who's not doing 1-5-9 is out of place.
Quote from: shark on December 03, 2018, 07:50:20 pmSo it’s not an Oak replica - it just happens to have an Oak like moveOut of interest Simon. What are your best links on the Oak and when did they occur?I remember seeing you do quite a good one a few years ago from not many moves in to the top. You were so casual that when I started shouting encouragement you were able to reply "this is not a redpoint!".