W. Warm up go on Oak. First redpoint climbed it perfectly. Didn’t get horn in exactly the right place but should have been able to hold it and adjust but didnt. Mental block no doubt.
The comment about the mental block confirms my armchair coaching comment that one of the more significant barriers to success for you is now mental (hardly surprising after so much time vested in the route). What Pete said about training failure struck a chord. A winter doing 'up' problems on the grit and reading Jerry's book is my prescription.
Blocfit (Brixton) looks a good option, anyone been?
It's tiny and scrappy and can only be found by venturing down an underground tunnel filled with garages; I felt like I probably lost years off my life from the petrol fumes. What you see in the photo on the website is most of the wall -- there's a balcony which (IIRC) has TRX stuff, and a weights area under it, and that's it. I liked it a lot!The Board de Lune is 40 degrees so don't know if that's a dealbreaker for you. It's all very short so would be ankle-friendly.It would be absolute rubbish if you want to boulder and have lots of nice new problems each time, but would be very good for doing focused training because it doesn't give you any other options.
Sort of wish I hadn't got so close as then I could knock it on the head for the winter with no 'what ifs' in the back of my head!...
Quick questions before I try it out tonight:For increasing "finger endurance" (i.e. the feeling of fingers having no strength left after a number of fingery moves - felt this while trying Hannibal in the summer), would repeaters be the best exercise? Assuming 7 on 3 off for 6 or 8 reps, 3 sets is the protocol. Which size holds should I be using for half-crimp?
Great to have that motivation brewing over the winter though, fuel to the fire.
Quote from: Coops_13 on November 12, 2018, 05:02:41 pmQuick questions before I try it out tonight:For increasing "finger endurance" (i.e. the feeling of fingers having no strength left after a number of fingery moves - felt this while trying Hannibal in the summer), would repeaters be the best exercise? Assuming 7 on 3 off for 6 or 8 reps, 3 sets is the protocol. Which size holds should I be using for half-crimp?Thats what I've been doing Ross. I used a combination of a lattice/campus rung, bottom outside on the 2000 and the deep slot on the 2000. When I was going well on it a few weeks back I did slot x 2, lattice rung x3, slot x2. The holds are large because I had a 10kg vest on, although I took that off when doing a set on the bottom outside! 7 secs on, 5 off (allows time to chalk up), x 7. Hope that helps.
Almost surely neural. Inspiring logs btw, thanks for posting these
Assume your progress on the Furnace route could just be getting back to your "base level" again through actually doing some climbing, plus a bit of recruitment?
Purgatory.Motherlode.
S- Stoke AW evening session - handed in the “history of bouldering” timeline poster that boy and I had fun making for NIBAS 3 - bulk mid grade problems; climbing better than earlier in the weak and did a couple of V7s quickly..