Quote from: nai on October 16, 2018, 10:18:22 amKidneystone and SOTG are about core and compression more than anything, certainly for the shorter climber anyway.They're about your ability to climb I would say. Doing exercises far removed from actual climbing (i.e. Kettle Bells) is not a way to dig yourself out of a performance hole IMO.
Kidneystone and SOTG are about core and compression more than anything, certainly for the shorter climber anyway.
Climbing is one of the most complex disciplines, if not the most, imaginable. It requires a perfect blend of strength, power, technique, equilibrium, conditions, good skin, good mindset, good atmosphere, good tools, not to mention the various intricacies of finger strength, pulling and pushing strength, body tension, flexibility, etc. A blend that is specific for every type of rock and climb!
(oh, but if someone does have the knowledge about how to go from here to Tsunami let's talk! I would gladly give everything else up for that)
If you can't do Pinches Wall problems you can't blame that on technique so do you have some flaw in shoulders or core strength?
Thanks guys!Nibs - made me laugh. Why try indeed?
Thanks guys! Trouble with putting your imperfect routine under the microscope is it looks very imperfect indeed. Hi Will - just seen your reply, yes I am that bloke wot done Advance Training.... but I am really really shit at climbing. Alright, that's probably enough over sharing. I'll try to climb more and get those things on my list done. And I'll limit the fingerboard or a bit. Thanks everyone for your help.
my weak shoulders
This would only highlight the futitility of my "training" - far too little of it to actually see any improvements, more just trying to mark time until such a time as I can try and improve.
1. Please stop talking cock about your shoulders - I know a specialist told you, so it must be true, but basically Murph is buff with shirt-filling deltoids ; Advanced training crux is a solid 7C gaston lock - weak shoulders don’t lap it statically about 40 times (then falling off a 6A finish).
4. I’ll join you whenever Griff’s is wet..
A couple of years ago I was lucky enough to have a coaching session with monkey boy. He pointed me to the wall and asked me how I would climb a certain problem. I pointed to the holds and said what I would do. This is pretty standard stuff. I was so wrong. Not only the wrong bit of my foot (apparently you are supposed to stand on your toes, not the inside pad) but I was also pointing to the wrong hold. Which was nowhere near the right hold. And that was just pulling on! This kind of thing happens all the time. Sometimes I feel like that kid in The Royal Tenenbaums who Bill Murray is studying - the one who can’t copy shapes anything like he’s supposed to. I think this movement dyslexia is why I tend to go out and repeat the same things or only climb things I’ve seen videos of. Learning new moves is disproportionately difficult and when I go to a new problem I have to learn it all again. That resonate with anyone or does it tend to just be the execution?