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Poll

What is a highball

A problem thats just high enough to be scary but is still reasonably safe
24 (72.7%)
A problem that is high, scary and can only be soled.
4 (12.1%)
Any single pitch route that is climbed in a bouldering ethic with a mat.
5 (15.2%)

Total Members Voted: 32

Voting closed: September 28, 2004, 07:34:01 am

Yorkshire Highballs? (Read 22328 times)

Big Frank

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#125 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 08, 2004, 07:31:44 am
Quote from: "AndyR"
Quote from: "Nigel"

"Not another Peak-centric article"  :wink:


I can hardly wait! Perhaps a special issue on North vs South Burbage? Put me down for a subscription :roll:


Or for Sloper and east Vs West article;

 by - sloper  on - 11:42 Thu
"In reply to Blue Water White Death: Indeed, I have seen well known climber with a big mouth using (not I, I hasten to add) a pof at Burbage West."

From CT.

Sloper

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#126 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 08, 2004, 09:19:26 am
What's your point fat boy?

What about an esoteric highball article?  There's enough things at places like chatsworth, baslow, frogatt woods, below cratcliffe crag etc etc for a decent article.

Although since I don't buy the mags I'm no really that bothered.

AndiT

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#127 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 08, 2004, 09:28:09 am
Simon: I am precious and sometimes delicate, my mother told me so!

Stu: After the next ones published, I'll be able to afford my own jet to come and visit you. A trip is on the cards unless you fancy meeting halfway? Me and Jo could well be in the states next Autumn.

webbo

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#128 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 08, 2004, 10:18:04 am
Quote from: "AndiT"
[comparing the Churnet to Eavestones would this really be more appealing? What do you want to read about?


i'm up for this. as a past devotee of evestones and a recent convert to the wet weather delights of churnet. now ya talking. :lol:

AndyR

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#129 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 08, 2004, 10:20:40 am
Quote from: "AndiT"
Quote
I can hardly wait! Perhaps a special issue on North vs South Burbage? Put me down for a subscription


What's with the attitude?If there's something you don't like in life, do something about it, whether it's the political party in power or the contents of you climbing rag. If you're not interested, buy something else or write something someone is interested in, don't just moan about how crap it all is!

What about if something was written comparing Sardinia to Costa Blanca or the Churnet to Eavestones would this really be more appealing? What do you want to read about?

My apologies in advance if you were being serious in the suggestion but there is a sense of sarcasm?


You're correct, I was being sarcastic.

What can I say, I've seen probably several hundred articles on climbing in the peak over the 18 years I've been climbing (and I wrote one of them in cahoots with yorkshiregrit) and it's safe to say that I won't get very excited about seeing another one.  Although saying that,  you may surprise me and pull some fantastic hidden gems out of the bag that I've never heard of?

Personally, I like well researched, articulately written, beautifully photographed and inspiring articles to places I've never been, or have only been a handful of times - as you're no doubt aware, these are extremely thin on the ground in UK climbing magazines.  The reasons for this are many and have been gone into several times on here and on CT.  I seriously hope that the reorganisation of the magazines that is taking place will have a beneficial effect on their content - unfortunately, I kind of doubt that given who the new editor of the combined mag will be - the phrase you can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear springs to mind.

Should I put up or shut up? - you're right, it's easy to complain and it's something we all do well, but I think it's kind of justified in this case.  

Unfortunately, I'm too shit a climber, and don't have time to travel to nice new places for long periods of time to write anything interesting.  I could write something about bouldering inIreland, but Glen Dale and CJD have done a better job than I ever could.

Oh and pantontino, I actually quite like your column (oo err missus :oops: ).

webbo

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#130 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 08, 2004, 10:23:36 am
Quote from: "hongkongstuey"
Goblins Roof at Almscliff by any chance?? never had the balls to tackle it 'highball' style myself but know a few who have (and lived to tell the tale)


i lived to tell the tale but the broken heel's and broken elbow slowed me down for a month or three.this was in atime before mats but i did land in a puddle which atype of cushioning i suppose. :cry:

hongkongstuey

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#131 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 08, 2004, 10:51:39 am
Quote from: "AndiT"
A trip is on the cards unless you fancy meeting halfway? Me and Jo could well be in the states next Autumn.


have got a few days leave spair this year if you fancy a font trip or the likes (could be tempted bolt clipping in Spain or something too, but i can do that in Thailand and its far less hassle to get there for me) - next autumn is penciled in for a trip to New Zealand

when you've got your own jet you can just stop by and pick me anyhows........

Quote from: "Webbo"
i lived to tell the tale but the broken heel's and broken elbow slowed me down for a month or three.this was in atime before mats but i did land in a puddle which atype of cushioning i suppos.


Ouch.... I went up and down quite a few times but was never brave (or should that be daft?) enough to really commit to it

dave

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#132 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 08, 2004, 10:58:25 am
Quote from: "AndyR"
I've seen probably several hundred articles on climbing in the peak over the 18 years I've been climbing


well afterall it is the busiest, most accessable and consistently most popular climbing area in the UK. what do you expect!?  :shock:

Bonjoy

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#133 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 08, 2004, 11:01:05 am
You forgot to mention it's also the BEST area in the UK dave :wink:

grimer

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#134 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 08, 2004, 11:03:48 am
Hi Andi,

don't get offended by the comments on this. You've not really looked at this much before, but this isn't Rocktalk. It's a computer version of the Wilkes Head. People on here kinda know each other, and it's not really anonymous slagging.

As you said yourself, there were constraints on what you could do, which prevented you from being able to cover the Derbyshire equivalents of things like Crystal Voyager, which is what some people were looking for. That's all people were saying.

Having said that, if I were in your shoes and came along and read this post from a lot of people i didn't know, I would feel ten times worse than you appear to feel. Writing something becomes precious to you, and to have it dissected in any way feels a bit much. Over years of writing in mags, i have come to have no interest in people's opinions of what I write, which is probably why I was able to keep doing it.

Having said all that, I enjoyed the article. I would have enjoyed it more if i didn't know the area, so I am really looking forward to the Yorkshire one. Keep it up.

Gunther

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#135 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 08, 2004, 11:05:29 am
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
You forgot to mention it's also the BEST area in the UK dave :wink:


fuckin A, good point - how could we forget bestie:


cofe

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#136 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 08, 2004, 11:07:37 am
lovejoy you rat! you changed your post so my george gag now has  less steez!

weasel.

Big Frank

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#137 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 08, 2004, 11:30:40 am
Quote from: "dave"
Quote from: "AndyR"
I've seen probably several hundred articles on climbing in the peak over the 18 years I've been climbing


well afterall it is the busiest, most accessable and consistently most popular climbing area in the UK. what do you expect!?  :shock:


And long may it be!

personaly I haven't climbed in the Peaks for 8 years, I'm still exploring Yorkshire. :ninja:

AndyR

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#138 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 08, 2004, 11:33:20 am
Quote from: "dave"
Quote from: "AndyR"
I've seen probably several hundred articles on climbing in the peak over the 18 years I've been climbing


well afterall it is the busiest, most accessable and consistently most popular climbing area in the UK. what do you expect!?  :shock:


A bit of imagination, some inspiration and a hopeful look beyond the hopeless 'localism' that seems to proliferate is what I'd like.

More articles about the peak is what I actually expect :roll:

Big Frank

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#139 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 08, 2004, 11:34:16 am
Robinson,
I will be writing a piece on Guys Cliffe just for you, I suspect it wont get published so I'll post it to you.

Bet You can't wait!

AndyR

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#140 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 08, 2004, 11:37:13 am
Quote from: "Big Frank"
Robinson,
I will be writing a piece on Guys Cliffe just for you, I suspect it wont get published so I'll post it to you.

Bet You can't wait!


It'd be nice if it wasn't written by someone who thought The Sun was a challenging read, but I guess we have to start somewhere.

Would actually be quite interested - have only biked across the top of it and never dared to delve into the jungle below......

Big Frank

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#141 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 08, 2004, 11:44:26 am
Quote from: "AndyR"
Quote from: "Big Frank"
Robinson,
I will be writing a piece on Guys Cliffe just for you, I suspect it wont get published so I'll post it to you.

Bet You can't wait!


It'd be nice if it wasn't written by someone who thought The Sun was a challenging read, but I guess we have to start somewhere.

Would actually be quite interested - have only biked across the top of it and never dared to delve into the jungle below......


I read Metro because it's Free, Mother reads the Telegraph though which I light my fire with, she sends Momens Own for the wife.

Biking across the top is ileagal as it's a public footpath, you should know better.
Next time you int dale I'll take you for a forage in the jungle.

Big Frank

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#142 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 08, 2004, 11:48:04 am
PS I heard on the jungle telegraph that Mr.Crome is intrested in doing more there.

Theres a nice looking sit start to a sloping ramp to the top thats covered in Moss to be had.

jonP

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#143 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 08, 2004, 11:48:13 am
Quote
she sends Momens Own for the wife.


Mormon's Own?  Didn't know your wife was into that kind of thing.

Big Frank

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#144 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 08, 2004, 11:56:36 am
Quote from: "jonP"
Quote
she sends Momens Own for the wife.


Mormon's Own?  Didn't know your wife was into that kind of thing.


think I got me W upside down. Any way I read them in Bed with a box of tissues.

Nigel

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#145 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 12, 2004, 08:41:55 am
Managed to flick through this article in WHSmith t'other day. Similar to Bonjoy, its not how I would have done it, but that isn't a criticism of the article. Considering its for OTE its probably better aimed at the "beginner/clueless" breed of highballer, and I reckon it does this pretty well. Lets face it most people don't "use" their mats for this type of thing i.e. the foamy bit, its just something to wipe their feet on! So it will probably help some people. I'm also getting the Oedipus thing a bit more now - it is highball in approach, in that you'd rather do it above a mat than not. Even if you fell from the break, where it might not make a difference, you would rather have a mat eh!

In the spirit of criticising something, how is Renegade Master V13?

All told, I quite liked it. Better than the usual shite in there. Good effort Andi.

a dense loner

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#146 Yorkshire Highballs?
October 16, 2004, 09:59:06 am
has anyone done fuckin sole power?

 

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