[Bubba]

Some people shouldn't  be allowed to use photoshop

[Fiend]

Oh dear me  :roll:

Has to have a bee in there doesn't it  :roll:

[Stubbs]

However do seem to remember the goosecreature telling me that it was originally done going right hand keel then left hand chip. I guess its fairly usual for easier sequences to be found as time goes on...

yeah the beta article said that the first ascent was done like that, then swinging out and one arming to the pocket - would be most impressed to see a repeat in this manner!

[Bonjoy]

Has to have a bee in there doesn't it  :roll:

 Of course it does, it's a member of the Beegeese  :roll:   :freak:

[Johnny Brown]

For God's sake man, get a grip!

[Bonjoy]

Will this one do??
















 I'll get my coat. :roll:

[dave]

Dave is right on the money with that beta. Everyone I've seen does it that way. What you do after matching the chip can vary though - I go right to the bulb hold, then bring the feet out, then slap the pocket.

However do seem to remember the goosecreature telling me that it was originally done going right hand keel then left hand chip. I guess its fairly usual for easier sequences to be found as time goes on...

since blubba has just updated the new gallery section, thought i'd plug some old photos, back in the days of free t-shirts, stingers and matching adidas.





word

[Fingers of a Martyr]

is it just me or do u have odd shoes on there dave?

[dave]

yep

[Johnny Brown]

You mean you haven't progressed to using odd shoes for such boot-specific probs? Amateur :roll:

[dave]

TOP BETA ALERT! more than odd boots, when i actually did it i had no boot on the right foot, cos it makes that right toe in the slot totally bomber (you can really crimp the toes and hold the slot like a whipsnade monkey holds car aerials). i popped the stinger on for the topout (unnecessary in retrospect) and thus still had it on for the photos.

[cofe]

i actiually slipped the glass slipper onto the count's foot for the topout, which some might construe as being a point of aid...

[dave]

i didn't inhale, so its clean.

[webbo]

don't you need a chalk bag on each ankle in order to chalk up. :?:

[dave]

no, only one ankle.

[AndyR]

i actiually slipped the glass slipper onto the count's foot for the topout, which some might construe as being a point of aid...

Shurely, to use boldrin.com vernacular, *DAB*

[Pantontino]

My top tip for stumpies who face repeated failure on the final slap to the pocket, is to clamp yer feet either side of the hanging lump of rock between yer legs. This gives you a valuable couple inches of height as you go for the move, of course yer feet pop, but it doesn't matter because by then you should be home and dry.

Just out of curiosity, what is the consensus modern grade for this? Presumably it has dropped to something ridiculous like V7 in these revisionist times.

[Nigel]

I think that realistically it is V8/7b.

[dave]

i'd say 7b - its certianly easier than the benchmark 7b+s like blind date, WSS etc, but harder that a lot of V7s (not mallory crack i might add).

[Johnny Brown]

Personally I find it at least as hard as blind date, so I'd go fo sept be plus

[jonP]

How do short people manage on this problem?  I can't even reach the chip.  Well, I can reach it when standing on the ground - I'm not that short - but I can't reach it with my feet on the back wall & hand on the keel.

[Johnny Brown]

Get the lip, put the toe-hook in, then udge again to the chip? Tryin to remember if you need to match the lip or not first (not as bad as it sounds)
Before abandoning original method, try getting your left foot as high as possible on the arete when reaching.

[Ru]

Stump method (pretty obvious really):

Share break, right hand pocket, left hand keel, feet half way up arete, go right hand to lip below the chip, shuffle feet as high as possible on the back wall go again to the chip, right foot jam in pocket, match chip, take your right hand off, lock off chip, turn and wave at the crowd, one arm slowly to the pocket, one last wave, top it out.

[Pantontino]

[Johnny Brown]

I see being short makes that last move much easier.
I suppose you can cut loose without having to pull you legs up eh?