Just a shout out for this venue which I visited yesterday. It's been climbed on in the past but never properly documented. There was rejuvenated interest beginning back in 2014 and there is now a mini-guide (Dalehead and LSS are currently described in separate topos but I'll try and get them combined as it makes sense to visit both on the same day).
There's a bit of something for everyone up there. Easy stuff, trickier stuff (there might be harder stuff lurking there which just hasn't been done yet), steep stuff, slabby stuff. Landings are generally a bit tricky so it's best to visit as a pair and take a couple of pads each. Some of the higher stuff above the worst landings have been given notional trad grades as high as E5.
The easiest approach for LSS is probably to walk to Lord's Seat and drop down onto it. The easiest approach for Dalehead is to take the valley bottom approach for Simon's Seat. Linking the two crags is a bit of a heather bash, so consider going to the upper crag first (via Lord's) and dropping height through the day. Either way, take your strong legs with you.
The stand out boulders are the Wolfe boulder at LSS, which is very very reminiscent of Faerie's Chest, but steeper in places, higher, and more generously featured. The pictures on UKC don't do it justice. At Dalehead, the Twilight Block is just incredible. A pebble-spragging, smearfest that feels high but has perfect landings and is never too hard, but is always thought-provoking.
To finish off, here is a new one from yesterday:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BnOhyxljI2W/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_linkAnd a photo of the Twilight Block:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BnOuOoqj-YD/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
