UKBouldering.com

[Somerset][Sand Point][7A+/7C]Litany Against Fear/Arrakis (Read 3856 times)

monkoffunk

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 758
  • Karma: +61/-0
  • sponsored by 90% lindt and vitamin D
A couple of new problems in Somerset at Sand Point.

These were actually climbed by Ian Cooper back in June 2017, but attempts to return for better video footage were hampered by bad conditions and moving on to new things.

They are pretty excellent though, so seemed a shame to leave them unreported!

They are found with difficulty on a little pebble beach about half a mile to the west of 'Middle Hope Cove'. Further beyond a couple of old James Squire problems (Zero Degrees/Frostbite) is a recess in the cliff a bit like a mini Huntsman's Leap, with what appears to be a 45 degree board made out of rock at the back.

The left hand start using the arete is Litany Against Fear 7A+. The right is Arrakis 7C which joins Litany at the top but excludes the left arete. Both excellent, if often wet problems.



« Last Edit: August 13, 2018, 02:08:35 pm by monkoffunk »

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2943
  • Karma: +151/-1
Woah they look cool! I did miss the old somerset esoterica.

i_a_coops

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 522
  • Karma: +51/-2
    • Ian Cooper
Think they're pretty top notch by Somerset standards :D

There's potential for a well hard thing going straight up from the Arrakis start too, going direct from the under cut pockets to the sloper rail. Would be slightly squeezed in but I think it's an obvious challenge. Maybe Font 8A/+? Probably too hard for me anyway....

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5825
  • Karma: +237/-5
nice work gents, might try and have a look next week. Are these doable on your own?

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29384
  • Karma: +638/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
Wish I'd looked harder when I lived there, look cool.

i_a_coops

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 522
  • Karma: +51/-2
    • Ian Cooper
nice work gents, might try and have a look next week. Are these doable on your own?

I think the 7A+ would be fine on your own with 3 pads, would be a little bit scary. 4 pads would be nicer, the landing is a bit rocky.

I really wouldn't want to fall off the foot cam move on the 7C without someone spotting me though, I think you'd land on your head. There may be alternative beta but I didn't find it!

monkoffunk

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 758
  • Karma: +61/-0
  • sponsored by 90% lindt and vitamin D
Not that that didn’t stop you doing it for the footage!

monkoffunk

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 758
  • Karma: +61/-0
  • sponsored by 90% lindt and vitamin D
Would also be quite a pain carrying 4 pads in yourself, walk in is a bit muddy. I think I’d like a spot on the 7A+.

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2666
  • Karma: +173/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
Big ups for the Dune names! I must not fear, fear is the mind killer.

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
Are any of the problems spicy enough to expand consciousness?

monkoffunk

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 758
  • Karma: +61/-0
  • sponsored by 90% lindt and vitamin D
I would say almost certainly

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal