[Jim]

Seen this on quality bouldering pictures and was trying this prob last week while on whistle stop tour of country. only had jingo-wobbly shit guide to get me from place to place and it don't got da problem in it. Is it called stinging neetle per chance (going off image tag) If not whats it called and what number we talking? and also how do you do the last move? the lower moves are quality but couldn't get the top

[T Nagler]

yes it is called stinging nettle, and I belive it gers fb7a+ (not 100% though). I tryed it ages ago when I was 12 (before the first accent) so I cant remember any beta other than use the mono! I hasten to point out that I didn't do the problem when I was 12 but I was fairly close.

[ian h]

ok hear goes:

you can do this problem via the mono, but it is harder this way!! it requires the move upto the mono to be done very static, where as if you use the left hold in the picture, this can be caught dynamic

from the exact position andy is in, in the photo just bounce your right hand up again to the top roundish jug where the chalk stain is. game over!!

there are many versions to stinging nettle all the same grade, but the two most common are. the usual method starts on the right hand side bouncing straight upto the left hold pictured, and the other comes across from the left hand side, right hand on crimp, crossing over with left to the hold pictured. ( both methods avoid the mono)

grade font 7a

[ian h]

also there is no guide which covers the bouldering on southern sandstone, the jingo guide only really has a bit of eliminate stuff at fandango bowles and also matterhorn at high.

the best stuff is held in the knowledge of the locals. :wink:

pm me if you are coming down again , will be glad to show you the better problems of the area

[neil@canaryclimbs]

did this problem a couple of years ago, After ian told me about it. I gave it 7a+ bouncing the right hand all the way up

[ian h]

Neil what are your thought on using the mono?

i personally think totally useless!! although this is how it was done by ian s on the first ascent!!!!!

[Jim]

bearing in mind it was proper hot when I was trying it, it felt like it was going to be a lot harder than 7a (but I've only climbed on s'thern sandstone once before) could get to position in photo no probs but was trying everything to do last move to no avail. My method:
start on big holds to right, big slap up for left hold, heel on, drop into crimp on arete, slap patheticaly no way near the top and land on mat
using that mono would be sickening
also, whats the problem to the left that uses the same hold?

[neil@canaryclimbs]

Neil what are your thought on using the mono?

i personally think totally useless!! although this is how it was done by ian s on the first ascent!!!!!

yes, I could get to the mono no probs, little bit harder, but my problem was that my fingers are to Fat to fit in it, I could only get my little finger in to one diget. I think its a much nicer problem without the mono.



reply to Jim.

must have tried to slap the top right handed about 20 times. Just be patient, you are doing the rest of the problem the right way, I managed the final move by doing a big lunge.

The problem to the left is an easier variation I think about 6b+/6c from a sitter, there are hundreds of varients there. Next time you are down drop me aline I will be more than happy to show you aload of problems there.

[Jim]

cheers for your replies chaps,
next time I'm down I'll be definately dropping you'se a line
(probably won't be for a while tho)
Also when I was down there had a quick hour or 2 at harrisons rocks on the lone boulder at the start. couple of quality problem on there

[a dense loner]

jim you said southern sandstone was shit

[Jim]

well it is but I like to sample different stuff. The majority of it is sandy fragile rock but there are some good problems there and if I go down that way again I will still climb on it again.
I recon anybody would have a good time down here if shown about by a local with the knowledge

[ian h]

well it is but I like to sample different stuff. The majority of it is sandy fragile rock but there are some good problems there and if I go down that way again I will still climb on it again.
I recon anybody would have a good time down here if shown about by a local with the knowledge

Word

the quality is there alright, if you got the knowledge :D

[ian h]

cheers for your replies chaps,
next time I'm down I'll be definately dropping you'se a line
(probably won't be for a while tho)
Also when I was down there had a quick hour or 2 at harrisons rocks on the lone boulder at the start. couple of quality problem on there

you got the jingo guide , right?
did you try finger flow on the north boulder at harrisons, the best problem on the bloc in my opinion, although the top out holds are a little sandy!!

did you not make it to high or eridge rocks? undubtedly the best bouldering crags on sandstone?