[BenF]

I went out to Wimberry the other day and climbed a problem that does not appear in ye olde random grade rockfax guidebook to little lumps of rock.  Just wondering what it may be called (in my rather trainspotteresque way)and of course what it may be graded (in my similar number chasing way).

Its was on the downhill face of the Shell Shot boulder, straight up the middle of the green wall via some edges, a long reach and a shot hole at the top.  Actually a very, very good problem I thought, despite the encroaching green-ness.  The rock was all perfectly clean where it mattered and I was surprised that it wasn't documented in the guide or any other random topos that I have, since it wasn't that hard.

This problem gets my vote for most under-rated problem I've climbed for a while.  A classy problem that for some reason didn't deserve to make it into the guide.  Not that that makes it unique eh? :wink:

[grimer]

To be fair to the rockfax guide, it did cover all grit and limestone in all the peak, covering many things for the first time, and it did come along before everyone got into bouldering. What is more impressive than the amount of stuff that was missed out, is the amount of stuff that made it in.

[Johnny Brown]

i'm sure dense or jim will weigh in and offer the beyda for this, but in the meantime don't worry, a better guide is on the way...

[AndyR]

i'm sure dense or jim will weigh in and offer the beyda for this, but in the meantime don't worry, a better guide is on the way...

When is the fabled 'By boulderers, for boulderers' peak (grit?) guide coming out then?

[BenF]

Yeah, fair enough, I didn't mean to fully diss the guide, 'cos it is a very good guide to a whole host of areas, as Grimer says, and I'm still out using it all the time.  So apologies to Rockfax for the diss, but lets face it the grades are random...

But this still leaves my original question:  what is the problem?  Surely someone else has climbed it.  Its not that bad, the green slime doesn't affect the wonderful moves.  Honestly, it really is a great problem.  Go and climb it.

[Pantontino]

Andy, Ru's yer man for answering that.

Soon, I hope. :

[Ru]

Yeah, there's stacks of stuff at Wimberry that's not in the old guide. Check out all the totally classic problems on the Fish Boulder (above shell shot and not in the rockfax at all), and Miles' Slab (contour the hill righwards from shell shot to find an out-of sight slab). The first foothold is just about as big as you get, but I bet that you still take several attemps to stand on it.

The problem you mention is very good. It doesn't have a name, but it does have a grade... but I'm not gonna tell you what it is. Not many people do this problem so more consensus would be good.

What grade do you think it is? (or if you don't feel comfortable offering one, which other problems is it as difficult as?).

[BenF]

Erm, a grade eh?

I would reckon maybe V6, but it would probably feel a bit easier if you could get the high right hand sidepull without having to thumb sprag on the lower flake first.  I'm not tall enough to get the sidepull in one go, but this probably makes it a better and harder problem.

So go on, what grade do you reckon?  Of late I've been grading far too hard and need to bring my sights back down.

[Ru]

I actually had it in at font 6c - or V5, which would tally.

[BenF]

I actually had it in at font 6c - or V5, which would tally.

Yup, I'll settle for that, but definitely a very top end V5 to be honest.  A mate of mine who is tall and climbs very hard (like comp team hard) didn't manage it the other day.  I thought it was a fair chunk harder than Fish Arete from standing.  Like at least a grade harder.

Changing the subject for the sake of it...  I did Winsome the other week as well, what a phenomenally good problem that is huh?

[Nigel]

...but definitely a very top end V5 to be honest.  A mate of mine who is tall and climbs very hard (like comp team hard) didn't manage it the other day.

God help our comp team! Not in the paralympics is he?

[Fingers of a Martyr]

   

not very comforting news. i wouldn't have thought a v5, top end or not, would put up any fight against a comp team playa.

[Pantontino]

I know a few V5s that would stop all but the lucky or the strong, dead in their tracks.

With all this talk of V15s, people forget that V5 is actually a pretty respectable grade to boulder at. Certainly your average dedicated climber rarely operates above this level.

But I suppose if you're a team member, perhaps you should be able to deal with odd awkward Font 6c.

[BenF]

Following discussion down at the wall tonight, a suggestion of V7 was mooted for this problem (along with mirth at the now settled V5 grade), but we'll give my mate the benefit of doubt since it was well hot on the day he tried it. I'm obviously telling him that its soft at V5 now I've done it anyway!

But as Simon said above, V5 is a respectable grade and can still require a bit of work, even for someone who flashes V9 like my mate.  As now proven.  I need only point to numerous V5s in North Wales for some solid 5s.  But I'm not gonna start on about Loose Canon again, honest.

Ru, what are you giving Fish Arete from sitdown by the way?

[Jim]

Me thinks its getting sept B plus

[Fiend]

With all this talk of V15s, people forget that V5 is actually a pretty respectable grade to boulder at.

   :rocker2:  :wiggle:


Now if only I can do one of the fucking things in North Wales, it will all be sweet....

[Ru]

Just because I said 6c doesn't mean that it's gospel! In light of this thread I think that it should go up to at least 6c+, but I thought it easier than Fish Arete. Not that that means anything!

Fish Arete is currently in at 7a (V6) albeit soft 7a, and many tallies think 6c+, especially if you can keep your feet low on the big hold and get the top with your right rather than standing on the crap foothold on the arete and slapping over with your left.

The sitter to fish arete is in at 7b+ (V8 or V8+ if you like), but again bottom end. It would be a hard 7b or easy 7b+ so there's going to be disagreement whichever grade it gets. It's probably 7b+ for effort, but you could easily get it wired and make it feel easier.

[dave]

i think fish arete sitter is 7b+ for sure. and i should know what 7b+ is, since just about every 7c i've done is turning out to be 7b+ in Ru's guide....... :roll:

[Pantontino]

Threshold grade, 7b+, eh?

Funny that; all those overgraded V9s settling in their rightful place: just above V8. :

[dave]

you can come out of the closet and admit to beinig a font grade kinda guy Si, we won't think any less of you. we're very openminded here. :wink:

[a dense loner]

i was under the impression that fish arete sitter was 8a?    

[Pantontino]

Okay I admit it: 7a+, 7c, 8b, 6c+, 7b, 8a....aaaaaaaaaaaarrghhh!

God that felt good, what a release. I've been trying not to say those grades for years now.

[Jim]

i was under the impression that fish arete sitter was 8a?