[tomtom]

Mon: Core exercises

Tues: Anston – decided to cast my net a little further from bullet/wave/Ebola areas and checked out Apprentice wall. What a great spot – and superb rock. Apprentice wall is ace – and then spent the next hour flailing around on the SS for the prow. The top half was fairly straightforward (and great) but that first move is both long and quite hard. Typically, I felt like it was there as I powered out.

We: Core exercises

Th: Nada

Fri: Looked like rain coming in from the west – so headed east and decided to go to Griffs at Blackwell Dale. Been a while (couple of years?) since I tried stuff there and had forgotten what was what. Good to meet and chat to Hugh there (hello!) and he showed me what went where. Aims were Bovine and got stuck into that. Seemed fairly straightforward, though tough – especially the first move on the sit. True to form managed to get the start right at the end of the session when I was powered out. Good to see some other folk there too…

Sa:

Sun: Up early and back at Griffs for 8:30. So, start for Bovine went straight away (yay!) and managed the final move(s) too. Then spend about an hour on unsuccessful redpoints/links. Bah. Now have the start wired (no need for intermediate – straight up to the good hold – heel lock helped) but then just couldn’t do the move up right to the ear/sidepull. Eventually worked out the right body position (for me) for this move – and did it a few times in a row (when tired) but not enough beans (or luck) to do the whole thing. Next time etc…. Hello to the chap trying Ru’s there…

All in all a good week (frustrated by sit starts!) and despite nothing new, nearly got a Peak Lime 7B in 2 sessions… which for me is good (or its due a downgrade :D)

[Murph]

Afternoon Tom. What a strange coincidence!? (You’ll see...)

Goal:Advanced Training
Path: enjoyment, get finger strength back, profit.

M-kettlebells and stretches.
T-works pinkles (easy) circuit and fingerboard up to +40kg for 8s which is better than last week.
W-kettlebells and stretches.
T-works pinkles (easy) circuit and fingerboard up to +40kgs for the regulation 10s. Benchmark is being able to do 3 sets of that. Some playtime on the daughterboard.
F-kettlebells and stretches.
S-morning Griffs session. Just me and a local wad. That dead badger in the carpark is a bit grim, eh?

Spent longer than I planned working Bovine but after a bit of digging deep I got that special feeling we all crave. This is how I eat mine:



S-kettlebells and stretches. The kettlebell routine is coming on. Of the 10 get ups, 4 of them are with 24kgs now. When that’s all 10 I’ll invest in a bigger bell. It’s fun but my shoulders are so weak I really need to put the time into working that deficiency.

[nai]

nice one Murph

M Cornice. Flashed Egyption Bizarre then had 4 unsuccessful RPs at Zippy's Direct . Pretty much did it first go but my foot slithered off the slime mid last move.

managed to avoid climbing since as planned, been mostly eating cheese, peanut butter and flapjack and starting to feel a bit less creaky.

Restart training sometime this week,

[tomtom]

Effort Murph. Looked like you were right on the limit there!

I’ll post up some footage when I get it done - we do things subtly quite differently!!

[Murph]

Thanks Nai - and good for you sticking to your plan of rest. Easier said than done.

Cheers Tom - yeah man it felt quite hard. I should have got it the first time I got to the slot but my form fell apart. From a stand start I was going up to the RH pinch with both feet on, but when climbing into it I went RF only and it was just enough of a difference to put me off. Would have been annoyed if I hadn’t got it finished.

Good luck next time you’re there look forward to the victory vid.

[shark]

Weight 11.1-2  Average 156.3 down 0.2lbs

M.

T. AM Cornice with Nick. Dogged up Cry of Despair. Felt terrible then fudge pointed it first go changing my sequence as I went on the lower crux. First tick in 8 months although I did do it 23 years ago. Went on Jug Jockey as far as third bolt. Desperate move. Haydn pointed out that I should go for the undercut with my right and it came together - almost. 

W.AM Cornice again with Kristian. 5 tie ins jugging up to top lip of JJ to try top crux. Almost did it.

T. PM Afternoon. Angsty after arguing with a bank. Something else had pissed me off the previous day too - cant remember what now. Went to Foundry to have a play on new set. Mark Shea turned up. Did some level 2’s and close on wasp left of centre on steep section after I changed how I used a hold on the crux. Had hoped to do a fingerboard benchmark session but legal shizzle got in the way.

F.

S.Xbrook with Ed G-S. Warmed up trying top section of JR. Conditions not great. One decent burn on Moffatrocity getting into JR but too much of a struggle in the conditions. Decamped to Tor. Better conditions but still not great. Worked on Bens. Best links from kneebar to coming off high edge on THFML and start to almost getting into kneebar. Mark Richardson and Zippy there and arranged a week trip to Shipwreck Cove in 10 days. Something to look forward to. Also climbed on Bens with a chirpy Italian who didn't like kneepads - Mimi

S.AM Anston with Ben for Sunday Soul Crusher sess. Forgot the fan battery. Did first two moves - eventually. Then found a way of changing my hip and leg orientation so the third move changed from low% to high%. Did the move a few times this way including linking through to the top. Quite a long session so sacked off idea of doing a stamina 20/10 session.

Rest day tomorrow then back down the Cornice on tuesday. Hopefully the cruxes on JJ will be more manageable. Still turning up. Still grumpy

[Andy F]

Sorry, not posted for a few weeks.

2 weeks today - Moat buttress, did the 6c+ and 7b+ in the middle. Usual training sequence.
Last week - Craig y Biceps - did the 7a+ in the middle, tried the 7c to the right, got shut down.  That crux is nails. 2 sessions in the cave at the Hangar.
Today: Put the clips in Unleashing. First go fell off the last move. Second go foot pinged in the middle. Third go, upto the the last move, dithered on the sidepull, threw for the flatty, held it, belay clipped. Seasons aim achieved. Get fucking in.

[duncan]

Nice one Murph. Interesting to see the different body positions between the different tries. It all in the hips.

[Teaboy]

Third go, upto the the last move, dithered on the sidepull, threw for the flatty, held it, belay clipped. Seasons aim achieved. Get fucking in.

Nice one Andy

[tommytwotone]

Goal: Font 7anything


M: Gym session on lunch, physio stretches, TRX physio then BW deadlifts, then felt suddenly cooked. Weight 69.3, up from 68.4 on 28/06.
T: Nowt. Work got in way of gym on lunch.
W: 40th birthday! In-laws babysat so got to go for a few cocktails and meal with Mrs 3T.
T: Nowt, pub on lunch and then out in Leeds after work with mates. Rolled in at gone 1am.
F: 
S: Nowt, family birthday shizz, only exercise was nieces trying (unsuccessfully) to teach me how to floss.
S: Solid day of housework in sweaty connies.


Always knew this week would be a heavy one, major cake and beer mileage clocked up. Off to the gym on lunch today, fully expecting to be 70kg+ for first time in my life.

Haven't climbed at all in about a month as can't bear this heat, but going to force myself to get back into it this week. Easy mileage, if nothing more it'll help me sweat my way back to fitness.

[T_B]

Effort Murph. Looked like you were right on the limit there!

I’ll post up some footage when I get it done - we do things subtly quite differently!!

If you're tall, you don't have to use the awkward pinch out right. I used a slopey edge with my left, with right hand in the break/seam and then went straight to the jug with my right. I doubt it's 7B this way though

[spidermonkey09]

Felt like a long week at work with the post holiday blues.

M- rest

T - rest

W - rest - giving skin and body some time off after two weeks of abuse!

T - Kilnsey after work. Tried Mandela again and felt astonishingly shit on it. Basically decided to sack it off as its not my style at all and I'm not really enjoying it. Might swing around up there if I end up at Kilnsey but keener on other things. Crux is hard; such a shame the jugs don't continue as it would be such a good 7c if they did!

F -  rest. Few beers in the evening.

S - Malham. First time back in a while. Thought conditions would be shit but were actually not too bad. Belayed a friend as he finally put Appetite to bed and tried Predator. First go up putting the draws in was a shambles; did about 5 moves as I couldn't see the wood for the trees. Next two goes much better and started working the moves out. Very hard (obviously) but suits me and can see how it would come together. Couldn't touch the boulder problem at the bottom if anyone has any beta. Psyched to get stuck in to this.

S - Gordale. Decided to put the hard yards in on Supercool. Worked out a much better sequence for the cruxy section below the block jug and started piecing together the crux again before conditions got simply too shit and sacked it. Clipping the bolt is going to be the sticking point for me on this as I have no idea where I'm going to clip from. Will focus on this next time I'm there. Attempted Gallows Humour as a warm down and got spanked; filthy, hard, snappy and run out. Grim. Noted lots of new bolts; I gather Cave Route Right is now fully bolted, as is Hangman. Thanks to whoever did the work.

Good week in terms of deciding where my priorities are. Psyched on crimpy face climbing which isn't ideal in the heat but if I do the hard yards in these conditions it will feel easy when it cools down! All and any beta appreciated.

[tomtom]

Effort Murph. Looked like you were right on the limit there!

I’ll post up some footage when I get it done - we do things subtly quite differently!!

If you're tall, you don't have to use the awkward pinch out right. I used a slopey edge with my left, with right hand in the break/seam and then went straight to the jug with my right. I doubt it's 7B this way though

So I go for the pinch (which is good enough when I get it correctly) with my RH, but instead of bringing my RF up to the highish hold (as Murph uses), I put the outside of my RF on the left end of the rail below and twist up flagging with my LF. If I get my body position right (as I forgot to on all my redpoints (grr..) then its a static reach up..

If it works I'll post a vid

[shark]

When you going on it next TT?

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - boxing bag.
Tue - rest.
Wed - rest.
Thu - rest.
Fri - weights. 
Sat - weights.
Sun - rest.

[Murph]

Escaping Norfolk sort of has it using T_Bs method. Looks like levitating at 50:30 in this link:



Can be done with a left heel hook too, apparently. I might try doing it some different ways.

[Nibile]

Nice one Murph!
On a side note, that "Escaping Norfolk" video is nice, but all the cuts and editing between various cameras are a bit unpleasant for me. They miss the climbing, it seems that you're watching a slideshow.

[tomtom]

Escaping Norfolk sort of has it using T_Bs method. Looks like levitating at 50:30 in this link:



Can be done with a left heel hook too, apparently. I might try doing it some different ways.

That’s just a big old dyno non?

Shark: maybe weds AM. Not sure atm - seem to have some virus/cold/tonsils thing... was supposed to train tonight. Edit: or Tuesday late afternoon/early eve...

[dunnyg]

Every time I see this thread title this goes off in my head:




Office looks like a disaster zone now.

[Coops_13]

Not a lot of climbing for me this week.

M: (see last week PC) Kilnsey ticked a couple of routes up to 7b+
T:
W: Yoga
T: Arch. Hot, under-powered session. Warmed up, repeated some comp wall problems, did some work on the 50 including a new problem, sent a v soft (and badly set) green (V6 -
F: Drive to Cornwall
S: Some walks
S: Sky diving - simply amazing. If I didn't already have a time-consuming hobby to do outdoors at the weekends, i would 100% get qualified and take this up. Nothing like it.