Tremelo is a good 7c which is reputedly low in the grade and well bolted although I am yet to tick it so cannot confirm!
Sticky Wicket at Kilnsey- very good and I'm convinced this is 7b+.
Fatty Gee pulled the big hold off at the top of the groove last year making it a touch harder. If it's 7b+ then what's 50 for 5 (some things have to be top of the grade boundary)?
Sticky Wicket is 7b+
Will, everyone, with a very few exceptions for the truly mazed, is scared of falling, big run outs and lots of space beneath their feet. Embracing that feeling and still pulling down like f*** is what climbing is all about surely? Not just trying to avoid it. I'm not talking about really dangerous things just taking or being willing to take safe falls. Learn to (almost) love them!
One man's slump onto the bolt is another's big whip. I'll get there hopefully, but this is a progression. I fully expect that taking bigger falls is a learned skill which one can get better at - much in the same way that lobbing off onto a stack of mats is something which some people are scared of and others have grown accustomed to.
actually fall trying upward movement