* not dissimilar from TurnipTurneds 12 problems routine on his board?? (my memory might be hazy on this..)
Sat - basket game.
Quote from: Nibile on March 05, 2018, 01:20:07 pm Sat - basket game. I swear every week Nibs makes up a random-but-plausible-sounding exercise to see if we're actually paying attention!
When Tom was talking about it (traingingbeta podcast?) I'm fairly sure it was in relation to Aerobic Capacity training. ......
In running (other endurance sports are available) it's a common protocol whereby you perform the majority of your AeroCap at around 60% of MHR with less work at around 85% of MHR. You'd also do Strength and perodically PE sessions to compliment this.
......Sounds like you're trying to apply this protocol to pure strength work?
Murph are these circuit problems at the wall ones you can flash quite easily? IMO this is the definition of ‘junk miles’ applied to climbing
Quote from: nai on March 05, 2018, 02:40:54 pmWhen Tom was talking about it (traingingbeta podcast?) I'm fairly sure it was in relation to Aerobic Capacity training. ......Re-listened last night. Yes you're quite right Nai, it was specifically around aerobic capacity work. (episode 38, 56:00 in)What he said was that he has found "split intensity" to work really well. Low intensity being 5 minutes continuously very easy, with 5 minutes rest. High intensity being e.g. 20 moves 1:45 on, 1:45 off something that could be done 3x if tried hard - getting "a little bit pumped" but no more.Wasted miles being a 40 move circuit that could be done 4 times in a row, shaking out, recovering and just getting through it at lactate threshold.
Quote from: Murph on March 06, 2018, 09:19:11 amQuote from: nai on March 05, 2018, 02:40:54 pmWhen Tom was talking about it (traingingbeta podcast?) I'm fairly sure it was in relation to Aerobic Capacity training. ......Re-listened last night. Yes you're quite right Nai, it was specifically around aerobic capacity work. (episode 38, 56:00 in)What he said was that he has found "split intensity" to work really well. Low intensity being 5 minutes continuously very easy, with 5 minutes rest. High intensity being e.g. 20 moves 1:45 on, 1:45 off something that could be done 3x if tried hard - getting "a little bit pumped" but no more.Wasted miles being a 40 move circuit that could be done 4 times in a row, shaking out, recovering and just getting through it at lactate threshold.Remember those number were for a boulderer wishing to do a specific long boulder (20ish moves iirc) problem on a trip, if you're after doing a 40m route that amount of endurance work might get you to bolt three
I don't know. If I was to say what pinkles + max hangs really means I'd say it was a really good warm up before a max hang session. I can't believe the pinkles are less than useless and they aren't hard to recover from. It normally takes 15-20 minutes to warm up for a max hang session anyway.
Quote from: tommytwotone on March 06, 2018, 08:58:11 amQuote from: Nibile on March 05, 2018, 01:20:07 pm Sat - basket game. I swear every week Nibs makes up a random-but-plausible-sounding exercise to see if we're actually paying attention!I'm waiting for pro celebrity big game fishing to come up...
I quite like teestub's term "junk miles". It seems appropriate!
I use the time to practice movement skills, I'll be mindful to have shoulders engaged, hips in and do a series of cross throughs, cross feet, climbing sideways using outside edges, do sticky hands/feet, I'll use unecessary Egyptians and heels to take weight off arms and be hanging around on aretes trying to contrive heel-toes and shift weight so I can get hands-off. It really does all help when you're out on rock.
Nai, would you agree that whilst Aerocap work is important for those trying to develop fitness, it would be almost a complete waste of time (or at least a very low priority) for a time-short boulderer?On the wider topic of the previous page's discussions, where I can see some sense in using aerobic activity training theory for the fitness side of long routes, trying to use that theory as any basis for training for bouldering would seem to be completely flawed. You wouldn't try and increase your deadlift by spending 80% of your time doing 50 reps at 10kg...
Nai, would you agree that whilst Aerocap work is important for those trying to develop fitness, it would be almost a complete waste of time (or at least a very low priority) for a time-short boulderer?
but maybe need to try hard to get to the top of the motherboard one day. Surely it's possible.
I think Lattice might still prescribe it for boulders.
Oh sorry! I didn't know it. Yes, basketball.
We never abbreviate it
b-ball
Achilles feels better too, so am going to try to reintroduce some more running.