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MischaHY

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Cheers fella   :)

jwi

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I hope to be back for more (either Elsa, lMdlM, or Miroir Tectonique) next week.

Miroir Tectonique was good! As it is new there were loose holds a bit through the entire routes, but lots of shiny bolts.

The route starts 50 m to the right of the common first pitch of Elsa and Lucifer.


The first pitch is easily identified by the large roofs that caps the 2nd pitch. Start on the plumb line of the left edge of the roof.


The 5th pitch in particular had very good climbing. Steep and sustained.


Hauling a bag works well. Pitch 10 ended with a traverse that required a small trick.


Pitch 12 was particularly loose, my wife broke no holds on the lead, I broke one hand hold and two feet. But the climbing is easy enough that it is possible to stay on for anyone having the slightest chance on freeing the crux pitch.


I fell on the last move of the crux pitch 13, after breaking another foothold. Oh well, if I would have had margin I would have been fine, but I didn't. The top part of the route doesn't get into the sun until almost 4pm, but we were pretty slow. Well hot in the sun.

Brillant decent on alpine meadows. Pic de Bure in the background.


I found no topo online, but the descriptions on camp to camp sufficed. The route doesn't cross any other route so just follow the bolts... Regardless, I made a topo, so now there's no excuse....


Caoimhghin

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Hi guys !
Just discovered this forum, I would love to take a look at the bible/book. Could someone please PM me a download link? Thanks !

jwi

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Soon we no longer need to circulate the pdfs. A new edition of Parois de Legende, with some additions should be in the stores in May sometime.

https://www.facebook.com/marion.blanchard.71216/posts/2422585944574979

submaximal gains

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Hi guys !
Just discovered this forum, I would love to take a look at the bible/book. Could someone please PM me a download link? Thanks !

I'll send you a link

duncan

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Soon we no longer need to circulate the pdfs. A new edition of Parois de Legende, with some additions should be in the stores in May sometime.

https://www.facebook.com/marion.blanchard.71216/posts/2422585944574979

Excellent. Any idea what has changed? I presume the Saharan crags have been retired and my suggestion of Hoy didn't make the cut!

jwi

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I saw that Stetind was included in the print proofs. I've heard that they will exclude crags with routes that cannot be accessed in the foreseeable future

Paul B

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Excellent. Any idea what has changed? I presume the Saharan crags have been retired and my suggestion of Hoy didn't make the cut!

I hope there's an English version.

jwi

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That probably depends on finding a publisher willing to translate and print an english version. I have the impression that this is rarely done in the UK or US? In Spain or France you can find all the best-selling anglophone titles on climbing in translation.

duncan

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Soon we no longer need to circulate the pdfs. A new edition of Parois de Legende, with some additions should be in the stores in May sometime.

https://www.facebook.com/marion.blanchard.71216/posts/2422585944574979

Excellent. Any idea what has changed? I presume the Saharan crags have been retired and my suggestion of Hoy didn't make the cut!

The index pages, four in total here give the full run-down. On brief inspection, there are new chapters on Norway, Greece and Oman, the Turkish routes are all different, there are small changes to the USA chapter and Wadi Rum has a greater selection. Mali, Algeria and Namibia are out. My running total is now 23 routes.


That probably depends on finding a publisher willing to translate and print an english version. I have the impression that this is rarely done in the UK or US? In Spain or France you can find all the best-selling anglophone titles on climbing in translation.

Adventure Books / Vertebrate would be the obvious UK choice. They have had several books translated recently: Science of Climbing Training, Mt Blanc Lines, Mont Blanc - The Finest Routes. I'd have thought there was a market but I Am Not A Publisher.


jwi

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puh... I got a few routes added and none removed from my ticklist.

To be fair, I don't think Parois de Legende has been translated to Spanish, despite that every Spanish multipitch enthusiast that I know is well aware of the book.

Funny enough, if I count correctly using the new selection, I have also a running total of 23 routes!
« Last Edit: March 20, 2023, 03:38:52 pm by jwi »

 

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