then set to work on Conie Ferrino - the 7B R-L traverse that starts up Bleak Forest then goes left. Tough moves on the traverse - the kind we could only just do in isolation but not link. No giveaway conies grades on this one - Dave any beta? its one of yours IIRC...?
Th - went to Burbage North intending to solo 50 routes ahead of turning 50 soon. Bit rusty, very wary, backed off Chant & Curse and knew it wasn't going to happen. Did 16 then arrived at Remergence done in and unispired, called it a reccy and went home. 5x5x5 deadhangs back home
It's getting to that time of year where the GF wants to do some sport climbing, but I just see it as a wasted strength gain activity. Anyone got any tips for getting stronger whilst sport climbing, or should I just try and orchestrate a bad day out to put her off for the season??
Isn't Kuhlochfelsen the one that's famous for big runouts even by Frankenjura standards? I've always wimped out of going there.
The bolts that is, not the climbers
Surely the Frankenjura is in Bavaria
T - Uphill Quarry with Fiend. Almost too hot but enough of a breeze to keep it climbable. Warmed-up on Images of War E3 5c. Probably soft as there a bolt 5' below you on the crux but a bit spicy getting there. First trad. route for 7 months. Sniffed at A Lesser Evil but didn't trust the gear. Worked Chiming For You 7b (former E5 6b), belayed Fiend on his E5, Life and Times, then RPed Chiming first go. Get in! ...7b out of the blue (It's soft, 7a+ in the pirate guide but 7b in the one that matters and that's what people take). First of this number (though of similar technical difficultiy to E5s I've done in the distant past). Totally my style: technical crimping with just enough for the feet. Great to see Fiend despatch another E5, it's on my list now. I was also pleasantly surprised by Uphill Quarry - I started climbing here in 1977 and remembered it as a grotty dump - but they've had the landscapers in and it was all very pleasant. Like a little bit of Avon without the polish or traffic. I even had a small boy call up “you can do it” as I was resting before the crux. We used to get glass bottles lobbed our way back then. I tweaked finger in the process but it seems to be recovering. Plan: mileage as finger allows then resume finger board.