[duncan]

Hello.

STG: Don’t break. Bounce and twist. A 1200 move (600m) session in 2 weeks time.
MTG: Don’t break. Work a 7b. Classic sea-cliff E5 this August.
LTG: 7b RP. Others tbc.

M - Westway circuit board: 8x 60 seconds on (~6b+) getting pretty pumped (Aeropower?)
T - Shoulder exercises
W - Westway continuous climbing: 6x 10 mins. 400m/800 moves.
T - Shoulder exercises
F -
S - Swanage with Mike Highbury. I insisted on an early start to avoid traffic and a 6 hour journey of past Whit. bank holiday experience. Checked out Promenade on the back a 1-2’ swell forecast on magicseaweed forecast. Abseiled in and it was apparent that the swell was much larger and the cliff was soaked. Never trust a hippie surfer! Retraced steps and finally arrived at Winspit more than 6 hours after the journey started. Warmed-up. Worked ...Freemarblers (7a) then red-pointed it first go. Had a play on Billy Winspit, a bouldery (7b), but didn't feel close. This is advertised as a reach problem though my deficit seemed more in talent and finger strength than inches. First outing of the new clip-stick, very favorable impression, mini-review may follow.
S - Shoulder exercises


A good week, feels like I am making some progress. Didn't do my usual trick of trying to onsight everything but instead made a relatively efficient job of the redpoint. Billy Winspit is the wrong 7b for me but Avenging the Halsewell looks a good option here when the Promenade is wet. Plan: more of the same. Down in Somerset Thursday-Tuesday. Anyone around for short session at Uphill, Cheddar, Brean or Anstey’s?

[shark]

Hello duncan 

11.1-3

M.

T.

W.

T. PM Loopy Lou, myofascial specialist. Pain and hilarity in equal measure. Learnt a bit about abductors.  Growing realisation that I have a distorted skeleto-muscular structure with both switched-off and over developed muscles fighting for space and failing to work efficiently and in harmony. I also trust no one to fully diagnose whats really going on under my skin and recommend a course of action. I also do not have the time, inclination or brain matter to attempt to understand either. Will persisty with sessions until feel properly loosened up. The notion of sideways breathing as trained in pilates does sound useful though 

F. Eve. Fingerboard repeaters half crimp. First session in ages.

S. AM. Experimented with weights. Invented the Austrian deadlift. 

S. AM. Warm up at Rubicon then on to Crag X. Tried JR (what else?). Managed to do the move to the pinch off the ladder a couple of times. Got greasy. Went home. Eve. Fingerboard repeaters drag. Sore tips and tired and struggled to complete warm up then failed on 3rd set so gave up.   

Starting to think about how to get in shape for the autumn. Weight following a familiar pattern. Lose weight at beginning of week when away in Manchester away from temptation then regain it when home.

Spent some money on replacement spirits. Also got the beta from Ned and ordered a fan. Even her Sharkness declared that this was cheating even though she couldn't put her finger on why. No doubt dave will be along to help.

Hopefully get to see or belay Steve when he does his Malham proj this week. Bit more motivated than last week but still 4 out of 10 bearing in mind that 9 is probably incompatible long term with marriage etc.   

[nai]

M test fingerboard session to see how back reacted.

T no pain so seems ok

W decided to try the 5x5s on/off. 3 sets of each F3 open hand and ½ crimp.

Th mini works 3x15 mins circuits

F googled for a glutes workout, decided I was probably above a beginner so would do intermediate. 3x12 squats, lunges, reverse lunges and clamshells. Felt fine...

S pain.what a twat, could barely walk.
 Fingerboard as on Wednesday but felt much harder

S first time on the board since the spasms started 3 weeks ago, and likely at least a week before that when it was merely playing up. Surprisingly did all my warmup, 4x4 and AnCap problems and even the latest recently completed "hard" problem 1st or 2nd try in 45 minutes. Have to see how the back feels tomorrow before I can call this a success.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

[Muenchener]

Weight following a familiar pattern. Lose weight at beginning of week when away in Manchester away from temptation then regain it when home.

Spent some money on replacement spirits.

Shouldn't the booze be one of the first things to go if you're concerned about your weight?

[tomtom]

Weight following a familiar pattern. Lose weight at beginning of week when away in Manchester away from temptation then regain it when home.

Spent some money on replacement spirits.

Shouldn't the booze be one of the first things to go if you're concerned about your weight?

Drink faster

[Luke Owens]

22nd May - 28th May

M: Rest

T: Lunch - 2 x 5 min Aero-Cap
Few shoulder antags

Eve: Dinbren - 6b warm up then 2 working goes up El Rincon, did the first 2 hard moves this time; the undercut to crimp move by the 1st bolt and then the massive move from this to the distant edge by the 2nd bolt, opted for the dyno method. Killer move but low percentage. Need to figure out foot beta for setting up for the rockover slightly higher up next time.

So, I've done all the crux moves in isolation, it feels around about a 10 move Font 7B(?)ish boulder problem to the 3rd bolt then eases slightly, heard theres one more tricky more up top somewhere too but I haven't ventured up there yet.

Psyched to do the moves but they were definetly at my limit, linking it will be nails.

Didn't really want a long term project but all crux moves done after 4 short tie-ins isn't too bad I guess.

Six laps on the 6b as a warm down, didn't get pumped - ace.

W: Lunch - Max hangs: Half crimp - 20mm edge (Unweighted)
5 x 10s (3mins rest between reps)

T: Lunch - 2 x 8 mins Aero-Cap

Eve - Pantymwyn - Way too hot for me, tried Panty's sit again, had loads of goes and couldn't get past the 2nd move, felt really weak on it. Probably a mixture of heat and tiredness from the previous 2 days.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Gardening and out in the paddling pool with the kids in the day then Dinbren in the eve.

6b warm up then had 2 working goes on El Rincon. Worked the moves after the 3rd bolt to the top and too my dismay they are no push over. Sharp moves past the 4th bolt really put me off, the thought of trying to do that section after the bottom half with no rest is for sure out of my reach right now.

After speaking to a mate when I got home about it, I'm going to just get some ticks in instead ready for my new route projects in August.



Would be insteresting to hear peoples thoughts on this, is it better to go around doing routes that take say 3 -5 goes, quick redpoints and slowly pushing the grade over time rather than doing one route that might take 10+ sessions? When I've taken a long time to do something in the past I defienetly feel like I've only improved on that one route.

[T_B]

M - Lunch. Autobelays + board bouldering (6a+, 6b, 6c, then steep fingery board bouldering, finished on a 7a). Fingers felt good.
T - PM Totley Moor fell race. V pleased with my effort, a tangible improvement over any previous short race.
W -
T - Lunch run in heat - legs mullered. PM. Went to Crag X with Mrs T_B to show her some problems as she'd never been. In an hour repeated JR and Moffatrocity. Quite close on The Pinch. Had a quick go at Hulk but slopey dish wet.
F - Lunch. Autobelays - 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6c+ x 2, 7a x 2. Light sess.
S - PM snatched an hour on homeboard. Good sess. Later pm run.
S -

Perhaps unsurprisingly my efforts to find partners for trad (or even sport!) who have equally short time slots at awkward periods is proving tricky. Might do one autobelay sess a wk, but gonna switch focus to fell running and bouldering. Got a big race with 6 weeks to train for it, then 5 wks in Europe, which will be mainly bouldering-focussed. Also, my fingers are stronger than in 2015 when I bouldered my hardest, so if I could sort out my shoulder/back (slooooowly improving), I could get some stuff done locally.

[nai]

Would be insteresting to hear peoples thoughts on this, is it better to go around doing routes that take say 3 -5 goes, quick redpoints and slowly pushing the grade over time rather than doing one route that might take 10+ sessions? When I've taken a long time to do something in the past I defienetly feel like I've only improved on that one route.

3-5 tie-ins or 3-5 sessions (x 3-4 tie-ins per visit)?

I think you're right that you don't improve overall sieging one route, I'd rather do routes I can do in a few sessions. Training to earn the higher numbers is more effective/efficient than a siege I reckon

I'm sure you've seen:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27039.0.html

[nai]

Perhaps unsurprisingly my efforts to find partners for trad (or even sport!) who have equally short time slots at awkward periods is proving tricky.

midweek between school runs by any chance?

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[T_B]

Perhaps unsurprisingly my efforts to find partners for trad (or even sport!) who have equally short time slots at awkward periods is proving tricky.

midweek between school runs by any chance?

Maybe not quite as awkward as that. Generally either Tues or Thurs pm, then a 3-4hr morning or afternoon slot one day at the w/e.

[Luke Owens]

Would be insteresting to hear peoples thoughts on this, is it better to go around doing routes that take say 3 -5 goes, quick redpoints and slowly pushing the grade over time rather than doing one route that might take 10+ sessions? When I've taken a long time to do something in the past I defienetly feel like I've only improved on that one route.

3-5 tie-ins or 3-5 sessions (x 3-4 tie-ins per visit)?

I think you're right that you don't improve overall sieging one route, I'd rather do routes I can do in a few sessions. Training to earn the higher numbers is more effective/efficient than a siege I reckon

I'm sure you've seen:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27039.0.html

3 - 5 tie-ins to do a route, I don't think I have the psyche for anything that would take more than a couple of sessions at the moment, I'd probably push it further if I was really close on something. I'll save that extra mental effort for the new routes later in the year.

I think setting the level will be tricky for doing quick ticks but I'll see how some easier stuff feels this week. Only getting 2 goes on something in a session due to time limitations though.

I remember doing loads of 7b's in 2013, a lot of onsighting around 7a in 2014 then in 2015/2016 I don't think I did all that many routes due to unsucessfully trying stuff that's too hard for me.

Cheers for the link, I read that thread again earlier, put me off the seige!

[jwi]

Would be insteresting to hear peoples thoughts on this, is it better to go around doing routes that take say 3 -5 goes, quick redpoints and slowly pushing the grade over time rather than doing one route that might take 10+ sessions? When I've taken a long time to do something in the past I defienetly feel like I've only improved on that one route.

What someone can do in ~5 goes is usually a good indicator of their actual climbing ability.

Alex Megos, Jacob Schubert and Sachi Amma have showed that you can get to 9b without sieging.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - BM max; bag.
Tue - rest.
Wed - board climbing, singles. Front lever pulls 5, 5, 10, 5, 5. Weights, isometric holds.
Thu - climbing class.
Fri - rest.
Sat - ab wheel 6 x 2 10" pause.
Sun - dumbbell complex 10 x 5. Snatch pulls 10 x 3.

Very hot. Very hard to train.

[SA Chris]

M - Nothing - in bits
T - light beastmaker session. First in a while.
W - I think i did some core
T - bouldering session down coast. Spot 1 - bottom greasy but repeated a few good probs. Spot 2 - better. Repeated a few good probs, repeated first half of link up project, and did all the moves on second part, but was already getting greasy evening smeg. Got moves pretty much dialled now though, hopefully will go next time connies are good.
F - changed out snow wheels on car (a bit late!!) backbreaking.
S - half hour lengths at pool while kids in a lesson. Hour on MTB in afternoon.
S - nothing in morning, walk with kids in arvo. 10 k run in evening, 55 mins.

[Coops_13]

STG: Get fit(ter) for Rocklands
MTG: 7C
LTG: 8A

M: Went to Ostbloc in Berlin on recommendation from an old thread here. Thought it was pretty poor. Even in hire shoes (I'm a distinctly average climber) I was the strongest person there. The board was pretty rubbish, but useful to get a session in at least. And I split my shorts 20 mins in 
T: Berlin boozing
W: Travel back from Berlin
T: Indoors, pretty poor session. Didn't want to push too hard before Font but wanted to get some training in after the boozing in Berlin
F: Drive to Font with csl
S: So hot and sweaty, started at 5 with the sun after no sleep (drove through night). Climbing pretty much pointless. Failed on many things in Gorges du Houx including Gargantoit, what a line though. Further failures in Isatis and Haute Plaines before going to F1 to sleep.
S: Slept from 1600 Saturday to 0300 Sunday to get good connies... 22 degrees and super humid at 3 am?!? Plan was Cuvier but some occupants of the car park scared us away to Restant du Rocher  Managed to tick Vigipirate 7A at Restant du Rocher and Jete d'eau 7A dyno at Rocher de Demoiselles before failing on everything else. Attempted an evening session at Cuvier to no avail.

So it seems Font in 33 degree heat with high humidity is not the one... Video involving tunes, a lot of fails, one ascent and a cockerel to follow...

Plan to cut out alcohol and diet (ever so slightly) in build up to Rocklands in two weeks

[fried]

Apparently Sunday was the hottest May temperature recorded in Font.

2 week check in.

First week - 2 indoors session that I remember nothing of. Then on holiday In Noirmoutier on the west coast, a little bit of bouldering was possible. On Sunday I spent a pleasant couple of hours traversing on some stuff that was ok, idillic setting. Some ok looking stuff but not on my tod with a small mat.

And nothing the second as temperatures rose and I was on permanent BBQ duty, oh well...went for a swim, drank a lot, ate a lot of fresh clams.

[tomtom]

Cheers for starting the thread Duncan...

Erm - what happened this week....

M: Work... mostly marking...

Tu: First visit to Cave Dale to piss about on sheep shifter - on way back to Manchester. It was hot hot hot hot. Thats 4xhot. We all seemed to flag on the problem - and messed about on the 7A(+?) on the RHS of Sheep Shifter. Lots of holds - big moves, a good bit of loose rock.. SS itself looks like a great line - but things around it of less quality. Ho hum - felt worked out and might re-visit when stronger (end of summer?) or have been forced to climb on a 30 degree board for a few months... Was glad to get back to Manchester to see family etc.. strange times...

We: Marking - and watching the worlds press gather at the end of the road (Didsbury Mosque)

Thu: Out fairly early to Conies Dale with Dolly. Quick hit - good session - repeated my mega hit wonder 6A problem Conie head :D and did the 7A on the RHS, then a 7A on the LHS that was one of the eliminates but good fun. Big moves, big holds on a big(ish) overhang.. all good fun.

Fri: Hot. again. 90 min of grass cutting with a flymo. God abs/lats work out if you swing it side to side

Sa: Out to Helsby in the AM before the sun hit the crag and it got too hot. It was still hot - and muggy - and I was climbing shit..

Sun etc..

[csl]

STG - may

- 7B - not done
- 5 days outside - 6/5
- Do something good in Font - abject failure

MTG - september

- 7C
- cassin on piz badile/comici on cima grande

LTG - this time next year

- not sure

Monday

Arch B1.

Good session.

- white stepped roof, first try
- white main o. second try
- progress on green on main o.
- attempts on a couple of other greens

Tuesday

Arch B1 - various stuff up to V5

Wednesday

rest

Thursday

rest

Friday

rest

Saturday + Sunday

Font > 30º heat. Lots of failure, despite getting up at 3am in attempts to find better conditions. Still fun, but psyched to return when its colder and actually get some stuff done.

Apparently Sunday was the hottest May temperature recorded in Font.

I'm not surprised, nearly killed me.

[Sasquatch]

Would be insteresting to hear peoples thoughts on this, is it better to go around doing routes that take say 3 -5 goes, quick redpoints and slowly pushing the grade over time rather than doing one route that might take 10+ sessions? When I've taken a long time to do something in the past I defienetly feel like I've only improved on that one route.

Both...

I think quick redpoints are very good, but they don't really force your body into much adaptation, and don't teach you to try hard at your actual limits.  You do however generally become a better climber with a far broader repertoire of moves. I would advocate a bit of both.  Pick a long term "dream proj", that is a goal for next year for example, that is in a place with loads of other stuff to do.  Do 1-2 quick Rp's and then work the proj a few times.  keep doing this, and eventually the proj becomes feasible.  When you start to realize its actually doable, then put it on the front burner for a few sessions and see how it goes. 

[Sasquatch]

M-Nothing - Finish bathroom remodel
T-Nothing - court stuff for guardianship of special needs daughter, stressful, but easy
W-boulder at gym.  Good session, then meet Re: trip in June
T-Rest - housework, and general work
F-outside - slogged up to area, 2mile ride, 1.5mi hike, then cleaned two big lines, managed to just tick one of the for a stellar new 7Cish FA, run/ride and race back to town. 
S-Rest house/family time
S-Mtn bike -am, routes at wall pm.  Well psyched about OS'ing a 13-, when not really in route shape...

[36chambers]

M:
T: Pottering at the cliff. Been climbing the super extension to Underhand (without the start) as a warm up. It also turns out I can lap Underhand which is satisfying as it took me ages to originally do it. Will eventually try the full link if I happen to have enough pads.
W:
T: Pottering at the cliff. Ridiculously hot, chasing the shade.
F:
S: Dow Crag, Lakes. First time at one of the Lakes' "mountain" crags. Such a beautiful place. Climbed Red Clover SDS 7b+/c quickly, which is brilliant. Almost managed to make it back to the car before the storm engulfed the area.
S: Seathwaite. Was planning on going to Sampson's Stone, but the weather was very questionable. Close to doing Fright Night 7C but an acquired blood blister popped which stopped play. Sharp Rock.
 
Pretty achey today from so much walking with pads.

[AJM]

A good week, feels like I am making some progress. Didn't do my usual trick of trying to onsight everything but instead made a relatively efficient job of the redpoint. Billy Winspit is the wrong 7b for me but Avenging the Halsewell looks a good option here when the Promenade is wet. Plan: more of the same. Down in Somerset Thursday-Tuesday. Anyone around for short session at Uphill, Cheddar, Brean or Anstey’s?

Avenging the Halsewell is very good. I've tried but not finished Billy - too much for an injured finger at the time - but am not rushing to get back to it.

Depending on your views on strapping on rubber you may wish for some robust trousers/padding as there is a good rest available on AtH but it is a little painful.

It is also a route which offers the opportunity to usefully wear rubber on both knees 

Shout if you want beta.

[petejh]

STG: Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), Mega Crag X (NI),  First 8b+ (Mecca), spring
MTG: Continue bolting/sending new routes at Mega Crag X (spring-summer). Explore more of Ireland. Projs on G.Orme, Gideon and L.Ormes (late summer after birds have left)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018


M. Neck weights 22.5Kg
T. Craig Arthur (Clwyd Limestone). Quick afternoon hit from work. Did a 6b+ warm-up then led Manikins of Horror, E3.  Good route marred only by my feet being agony by half-height due to new tight whites.
W.
T. Drove to Peak with GF for long weekend.
F. Woke up and looking out the shuttered window of the cottage was convinced we'd been transported to a cutesy village in the south of France - 28 degrees blue skies and warm Föhn wind blowing. Evening potter on Stanage - did Black Hawk Trav.
S. Afternoon stroll along Stanage - showed GF around the Plantation area and all the classics, very inspiring. Back up in the cool of the evening, led Eliminator, thought was ace. Gf did her second trad lead/first on grit (Grotto Slab). Finished with Castle Crack.
S. Tor in morning. Tried having a work of Mecca. One go up but too warm and humid so quickly bailed, DIP joint also still achey so had a spare excuse in the bag. Afternoon on Stanage, did Heather Wall and Hargreaves Original Route, the latter without the requisite rack of mid-large cams - it felt go'ey for VS especially in 20 degree warmth! What a brilliant medium grit is, had almost forgotten how much fun it is to climb!!


Rest week from the Tor, loved the grit. Psyched for Fairhead next weekend and hopefully send one of my projs..

[duncan]

Thanks for the Winspit suggestions. I doubt if I'll be back on BW in a hurry.  AtH is not the most inspirational 7b at Swanage but the climbing looks like it might be fun and it would be one of the easier to project. Worth a closer look at some point.

It's a shame EotS is not 45 minutes closer.

[the_dom]

A week in which I have spent a lot of time swinging a kettlebell, but a very heavy week of training, and one where it is slowly starting to feel like all the effort is paying off.

STGs:
(1)  Two weeks ago, I set a goal of 300 swings a day for a month - I have since changed it to finishing off 10000 swings before I go for a weekend away to celebrate my wedding anniversary (which is next Saturday), which would mean 10000 swings in 27 days, or an average of 370 swings a day.
(1.1)     Complete 500KB swings in under 20 mins – a completely arbitrary goal but it feels like it would be quite a good effort.
(2)  Complete a max hangs session on the BM2K small rung with 50% of bodyweight added (which would be approx. 43.5kgs because I’m a *touch* heavy these days)

Mon: 500 KB swings (incl. 250 one arm swings)

Tues: AM: Fingerboard max hangs before work - 9 x 10s hangs on small BM edge with 41kgs added. 300KB swings total between hangs. PM: 90 mins indoor bouldering (decent session, in fact) and 250 KB swings afterwards which felt like quite hard work.

Wed:  AM: 500 KB swings, incl. 100 one arm swings in just over 24 mins; PM: 300 KB swings.

Thurs: AM: KBs: Hangboard max hangs - 9 x 10s hangs on small BM edge with 42.5kgs. PM:  500 KB swings in 23:39

Fri: AM: Fingerboard – repeaters and 350 KB swings (quite hard work). PM: 75 mins of very tired bouldering followed by 250 KB swings.

Sat: 500 swings, incl. 260 one arm swings in just over 23 mins
 
Sun: Really good 90 min indoor bouldering session followed by 500 KB swings (250 one arm) in 23 mins dead.

Just a note: the volume of kettlebell swings may not seem directly beneficial to climbing, but my core and general "pop" both feel massively improved as a result. Oh, and my shoulder issue has cleared up (holding thumbs!).