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Best diameter for abseil rope?
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Best diameter for abseil rope?
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kingholmesy
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Best diameter for abseil rope?
April 25, 2017, 12:04:43 am
Hi,
I'm going to be buying a 100m abseil rope and want to know what diameter to go for - 10mm or 11mm?
It will be used for abbing into sea cliffs. Normally I will of course be climbing back out on my dynamic ropes, but occasionally I might either be frigging back up the ab rope or swinging around on it inspecting potential new lines.
I am tempted to go for 11mm on the basis that it will be more durable. However, would 10mm be better due to (i) the lesser weight and / or (ii) because it handles more easily (I want to be able to just ab on my usual belay device)?
Also, are the Mammut Performance 10mm and 11m ropes OK are? I've seen them fairly cheap on a caving site.
Any advice gratefully received.
Cheers,
Luke.
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remus
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#1 Re: Best diameter for abseil rope?
April 25, 2017, 07:30:24 am
The rope access bods will have a better idea about the pros and cons, but personally I'd go with 10mm. It'll be lighter (perhaps substantially so with a 100m rope) and when it inevitably gets stiff and old it'll be much easier to wrestle it in to your belay plate/gri gri/abseil device of choice. If you want durability Id invest in some rope protectors as sharp edges are usual cause of death for ab ropes (in my experience at least).
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cheque
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#2 Re: Best diameter for abseil rope?
April 25, 2017, 07:55:34 am
10mm will be best if you're mainly going down on it (so to speak) I reckon. 11mm is reassuring for lots of jugging and hanging around but heavy!
I have an orange 10mm Mammut one- the handling is awful and always has been. The best I've got is a 10.5mm Edelrid.
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duncan
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#3 Re: Best diameter for abseil rope?
April 25, 2017, 08:19:12 am
I've lugged someone else's 100m of 11mm aound Lundy. What remus said, I'd go for 10mm and a couple of rope protectors.
Consider if you need a full 100m. Lundy and the Outer Hebrides seem the main places where this length is needed. Some of the best climbing in the UK of course...
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Johnny Brown
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#4 Re: Best diameter for abseil rope?
April 25, 2017, 10:09:43 am
First, be a bit wary of nominal diameters. They are generally rounded up or down so look for actual diameter or weight per meter. If you want light go 9mm. Given that I'm generally using a belay device for 8mm doubles it handles better. Durability is more dependent on good rigging and how much fluff you're prepared to tolerate, but a core shot is a core shot whatever the diameter.. Washing the rope before use (just in water) will tighten it up and make it more durable, but will remove some of the softness from the lubricant/ conditioner they use when braiding it.
Benefit to 11mm is it can be dead cheap due to the volumes used in rope access.
Agree on the length. I've had 69/70m ab ropes for years (a third of a 200m reel) and you can get in almost anywhere. Guidebooks saying '100m ab rope required' seems to just mean 50 isn't long enough. Get a second one 30m long and use it for rigging/extending the really big drops. I've only ever had to tie them together and pass a knot once, on American Beauty on Lundy. Or alternatively tie a knot on the end and do a traditional pull down ab off the end - whichever makes sense with available ledges/ scrambly terrain. It won't be free-hanging for 80m+ unless you're trying to get into Nebbifield.
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kingholmesy
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#5 Re: Best diameter for abseil rope?
April 25, 2017, 08:52:26 pm
Thanks for the replies, I'll go for 10mm.
I'm inclined to go for 100m as there are some multi pitch crags in Devon I want to ab down to check out new lines.
Any recommendations for brands / places to buy?
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Moo
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#6 Re: Best diameter for abseil rope?
April 25, 2017, 10:39:17 pm
I believe Access Techniques sell abseil rope and for a competitive price with unbeatable service.
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Johnny Brown
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#7 Re: Best diameter for abseil rope?
April 26, 2017, 09:51:10 am
We certainly do, however we don't hold stock of 10mm, and ropes are heavy postage isn't cheap if you can't collect. If you want 11mm and can collect I'm pretty sure we can beat any price though. Also have some bargain 9mm at the mo.
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T_B
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#8 Re: Best diameter for abseil rope?
April 26, 2017, 10:17:31 am
Jeez this thread is getting me well psyched for abseiling.
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kingholmesy
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#9 Re: Best diameter for abseil rope?
April 26, 2017, 02:06:34 pm
Thanks JB, but I'm based in the South West so can't collect and am keen to get a 10mm rope based on people's recommendations.
Quote from: T_B on April 26, 2017, 10:17:31 am
Jeez this thread is getting me well psyched for abseiling.
Going climbing is just an excuse to do some abseiling isn't it?
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SA Chris
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#10 Re: Best diameter for abseil rope?
April 26, 2017, 04:36:41 pm
Abseiling is a great sport.
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Johnny Brown
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#11 Re: Best diameter for abseil rope?
April 26, 2017, 05:35:21 pm
But...
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