[James Malloch]

STG - Continue training and have a quick ascent of Tremolo. Don't get injured.
MTG - In the autumn be getting 7c in a session and open account on an 8a. Don't get injured.
LTG - The Groove, Supercool and Statement of Youth. Don't get injured.

M: Leeds Depot. Did some warm ups on the reds and woods. Then a short board session, tried two projects again. Dropped the last move on one a few times. The other still has a single move that's causing problems - I've done it once so know it goes, just seems hard for me at the moment.
T:  Evening run. Did 4.09km. First time running over 4km for 1.5 years! Knee was aching in the last km but my physio said that was fine unless there was actual pain. Hopefully will get back up to my 10km target by the end of the year.
W: Evening at Almscliff. Just ticked some easier 5/6a problems I'd not done before. Jumped for a pad after a downclimb, missed it and sunk into a bog. Got some very muddy futuras now. Had a play on the 6C arête on the back of the Morrells wall boulder. Why are almscliff 6C's so bloody hard...
T:
F: Leeds Depot. Warmed up on the circuit board. Linked the new 6a into 6b into 6c. Felt fine. Sorry for those waiting. Flashed the 7b circuit later on also and got close on the 7c. Think they will be nice ones for some Ancap work if I can find a quiet time. Tried going around the purple circuit and managed to get a fair few done. Doing much better on the basic one with no trickery.
S: Wedding in Sunderland
S: Hangover in Leeds

Big YYFY for me this week was being able to full on crimp without tape again. Soreness in my finger is negligible after a session now. Think it's fully healed!!!

Lattice assessment on Wednesday morning so looking forward to hearing the results.

[Will Hunt]

Pulled up and got recruited on moves by 2nd and 3rd bolts then led 2nd bolt to top \o/

No more of this 2nd-bolt-to-top shit now, Shark. It's yours for the taking.
On the previous two occasions where you did 2nd-to-top was it your first go of the session? Perhaps the learning here is that if your best go is your first go, you need to warm up properly and then make your first go a proper RP attempt?

[Duma]

Hope it all goes well Toby

Well done on 2nd to top again Simon, surely not worth packing in in for autumn until you've had a session or two at fighting weight?

Goals:
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power? too hot now)and 8b by June
In shape for SA in summer.

Body Audit: nothing above background...
Sleep: Decent.
Over 70kg all week, managed to scrape back under this morning but still feeling pretty heavy.

M: nothing, still in Cornwall (~6.5hrs, 2dk)
T: nothing, drove back from Cornwall in aft but by time in bristol too late for wall. (~7hrs, 2dk)
W: TCA, new mothership set so went through those starting with easiest. Not feeling great still, must be three weeks of below par now (~7hrs, 1dk)
T: Bloc, had weird stomach pain all afternoon so pretty uncomfortable and distracted session. Failed on 7c+ circuit and a purple in the roof, pretty crappy session tbh. (~7hrs, 3dk)
F: Nothing, had daughter this weekend (~8hrs, 1dk)
S: nothing (~7hrs, 1dk)
S: not a lot, very gentle 10 miles cycle with daughter, brief bimble at TCA after, included a couple of goes on mothership thing up the middle, no joy. (~6.5hrs, 3dk)

Another week of no/backwards progress  - might try some easier volume tonight to try and kick start.

[sdm]

Nai, tarantula is a good 7C to session. Not easy but easy to work

Do the holds ever feel good? Whenever I have been there, the Tarantula holds have always felt really greasy despite the Meltdown/Nuda's Tartan holds feeling decent.

I found myself pinging off the holds all the time because of the grease despite them being decent holds so I gave up on working it.

[Coops_13]

STG: Train for Font, Font and Rocklands
MTG: 7C
LTG: 8A

M-W: Nothing, lazy
T: Poor board session
F:
S: Mate's stag do in Peak. Went to Ramshaw, he persuaded me to get on Traveller in Time (E4). First trad in three years. O/Sed up to top-out, took a few falls on the slabby top. Couldn't be arsed to do it again from ground when I finally got up. Enjoyed watching mate get spanked on Ramshaw Crack 
S: Feeling very worse for wear after night out in Leek. Newstones, repeated a few things then managed to struggle up the 6B+ warm-up at Blackwell Dale.

Not a great week but psyched for Font this weekend!

[petejh]

STG: Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), Mega Crag X (NI), G.Orme and Gideon. First 8b+ (Mecca), spring
MTG: Continue bolting/sending new routes at Mega Crag X (spring-summer). Explore more of Ireland. Send 2 projs on L.Orme (late summer)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018


Good luck Toby!!

Nice one Shark - time now to just drop a kilo or two and crush the cunt.

M.
T. Neck weights 17.5kg.
W.
T.
F. Tremerchion. Quick after-work sesh on 36 Chambers sit. Tried the shorties method, progress and think it'll go but defo harder this way.
S. Neck weights 20kg. Core and mobility sesh.
S. Supposed to be first day on Mecca. Overslept until 9 and didn't go (apols Stone and Oaksi!). Went down to Pigeons Cave boulders and tried 14 Years Later. Bit of progress, one more move. Still not sure of my beta, can't work out which holds Doylo uses in his vid. Stayed until sea was lapping the boulder, lugged pads out straight up the slope.. step-kicking type 2 fun.

Quiet week.


First sesh back on Mecca this Weds.

[nai]

nai- ref 7C Fine Beta at Anston is good and power-endurancy.

Nai, tarantula is a good 7C to session. Not easy but easy to work

Cheers, both look like the sort of thing I'm after. Also just remembered that lip-traverse in Tom's Cave as well, always liked the look of that.

[36chambers]

M: Snowden Crags/Cliff. Climbed The Brock 7C, a very good, albeit lowball, rising lip traverse.
T:
W: Caley evening sess. Nice lil circuit repeating stuff, then managed Two Squirrels 7B+ and then managed to go through 3 tips in two goes on The Drey.
T:
F:
S: Brimham. RPs on la Fonz 8A. Linked through the crux a good number of times but was falling with my hand caressing the juggy arete. I dare say that if my fingertips weren't trashed or if there was a slight breeze it may have gone. Cutting it fine at this time of year. Foolishly finished the day at a hot and sweaty Whitehouses. 
S: Foolishly went back to a hot and sweaty Whitehouses (for a not quite early enough morning hit). Settled for just working out beta for various problems.

In the 3 weeks I've been back from Font I've gone through a tip on every session on the grit. My poor hands

Haven't been indoors or done any sort of training for 6 weeks now. However, I'm planning a big road trip in America for 2018, so might start training in earnest for that. Does anyone happen to know how steep The Mandala is? I've got a 30 and 50 board to work with.

[psborland]

M:  BBC limit bouldering (after aborting trip to Dinbren halfway there for weather.) good session got close on  v6/7

T:  Kettlebells (swings snatch & press) . Core routine b only 1 round.

W: BBC sent v6/7 from Monday, felt strong so tried an abandoned v7 project went second go

Th: none

F: Pressups 2x 30; 1x 24 tired, stretching and shoulder mobility

Sa: none

Su: Dinbren, lovely day good conditions until about 2pm. Sent 7a+ first try then started work on 'I punched Judy First' 7b+.. 2 working goes. Feels really powerful with a hard boulder start, could take a while 

[webbo]

Mon. Bike 25.09 miles on the very hilly side roads 1 hr 37 mins.
Tue. Walk up the mountain at bike of hotel with the missus 2 hours. Bike round the back roads again 62.94 miles 4 hours 2 mins fried.
Wed. Walk up to top of the mountain with the missus 4 hours.
Thu. Wine tour and tasting.
Fri. Bike 63.46 miles 3 hrs 58 mins including 8 mile climb. Mega windy.
Sat. Mooching round Logrono
Sun. Bike 62.54 miles 3 hrs 56 mins including another multi mile climb.

[Luke Owens]

Su: Dinbren, lovely day good conditions until about 2pm. Sent 7a+ first try then started work on 'I punched Judy First' 7b+.. 2 working goes. Feels really powerful with a hard boulder start, could take a while 

It's just a bit knacky, the start isn't too bad once you've worked it out. A high right foot and a deep left foot flag help.

There's a video of me doing the route on my Vimeo page if you want some beta.

Also, a couple of my mates have done it recently using a knee pad and kneebarring that massive undercut for a rest, but obviously that's cheating and makes it 6b+... 

[psborland]

Su: Dinbren, lovely day good conditions until about 2pm. Sent 7a+ first try then started work on 'I punched Judy First' 7b+.. 2 working goes. Feels really powerful with a hard boulder start, could take a while 

It's just a bit knacky, the start isn't too bad once you've worked it out. A high right foot and a deep left foot flag help.

There's a video of me doing the route on my Vimeo page if you want some beta.

Also, a couple of my mates have done it recently using a knee pad and kneebarring that massive undercut for a rest, but obviously that's cheating and makes it 6b+... 

I took a look at your video thanks Luke. That looks about how i was trying it but you seem to be putting a lot less effort in than it felt like to me ! I'll have to try and find a better position next time.
 I can't really picture how a knee bar into that undercut would help much anyway .

[duncan]

Jawohl! Munchener
Good luck Toby

M - flight home from Barca
T - shoulder exercises
W - shoulder exercises
T - Westway routes to 6a. Supposedly Aerocap but felt battered after.
F -
S - Met Office suggested there would be thick cloud all over with a chilly northerly. Mike Highbury and I decided on Brean which was sunny all day and almost too hot. Surprisingly only one other team. Did everyone else get a different forecast?

Warmed up on the west end routes then got on Clashing Socks (7b). My only previous attempt in 2014 got me to the last hard move on the flash and a shoulder tweak. This time, I took about 5 hangs to get to the same place but shoulders felt fine. Deterioration or progress?! Worked this for a bit, feels far too powerful right now. Battered afterwards.

S - Family outing to Kew. The lad fell 3 foot, landed awkwardly, broke his elbow, and we all spent the night in West Middx. hospital.
M - Operation to fix lad’s elbow, seems to have gone well, back home, therapeutic beers (for dad).


Eventful week.

Due to go to Barcelona and Zaragosa over the weekend (work) but will wait to see how the lad is before committing.

As I've not tried remotely hard on anything for more than 6 months it's not surprising a burly 7b came as a bit of a shock. Clearly need to start bouldering and RPing again soon; will do a week or two more easier stuff at the wall since I've so little in the bank at present then start to ramp up the difficulty.

Coaching assessment with thekettle on Thursday, looking forward to this.

[nik at work]

M -  F - Font, great weather, good company, amazing pastries. No particular stand out efforts but plenty of problems climbed. Not been to Font for 3 years (having previously gone pretty much every year for probably 20 years). Reminded myself how great it is there, and the kids had a great time (including several decent ascents).
S - Travelling home
S - Still travelling home...

Font was great but driving to places from the Isle of Man is a pain in the arse.

[SA Chris]

See also - living in Aberdeen

[fried]

M - rest
T - indoors, nice session, flashed soft 6B, very nearly got another couple but dropped a couple of moves. Feeling good.
W/Th - Nothing
Fr - Indoors, bit tired but not too bad. I was expecting worse.
Sa - Missus' bithday.....lots of drink...
Su - Hauled my sorry arse to Rocher Fin, not a great choice but I was expecting more cloud. Saw, and nearly stepped on my first viper. Failed to get up my usual reds, far too hot. Went to check out Sur le fil https://bleau.info/fin/17020.html. Looks really good, did the start after a bit, but sun right in my eyes going for the slot, left it feeling a bit fragile. Did some oranges too.

Went back for a last few goes on Tas de Sable https://bleau.info/fin/6471.html, at least managed to pull on for the first time ever. My fingers are still sore. Rocher Fin is hard.

[filz]

Good luck Toby.

2 weeks update.

Tue 11: board climbing. Set and climbed new problem.
Fri 14: driving to dolomites for Easter
Sat 15: Walking
Sun 16: Climbing gym in Brunico with friends. Nice day

Mon 17: driving back to Siena
Tue 18: board climbing.
Fri 21: flying to Bordeaux
Sat 22: climbing gym in Bordeaux
Sun 23: walking