[mark20]

Loads of action to report from Beeley Moor this winter. Hopefully with the cool temperatures predicted for the next few days things will get a bit more action

Stone Edge
This place has a couple of existing trad routes on natural grit and now a good bouldering and highball circuit on the edge and
the extensive quarry behind. A couple of open projects remain, the Budgie compression problem will be a good 7Cish
Close to the road, quick drying and a good circuit in the 6s. Access now not a concern, the quarry is used by
motorcross groups on occasional weekends,so it is assumed climbing is OK. But please keep a low profile when climbing near the house

Up to date topo is on Bolehillbilly's excellent site
http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/stone_edge.pdf


Matt Ferrier on 'Dale Winton' 7A


Andy highballing Shield Stone Arete E1 / 6A

Dukes Seat
Described breifly in the BMC book, and later partially developed by Kyle Rance with the obvious E5 prow and a 7A+ dyno on the wall below. Now fully cleaned, with a great set of problems from 5 to 7B+. The rock is excellent grit, faster drying than you'd expect for a wooded venue, but the stuff lower down can take a day to dry after wet weather. The E1 arete mentioned in the book is cleaned and worth a rope and some medium cams for.
A real gem of a crag in a beautiful setting.

Park as for Rabbit Warren and walk along the track past this, over the wall and into the woods. A path leads round to the left to the top of the crag.
30 min walk in.

Problem descriptions are on UKC as Crag K, and I think Marc will get a topo on his site once he gets a chance
http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/crag-k.html


Highrepute stretching for the sloper on Darkthrone 7B/+


Tim on the font-esque Private Prow 6C

Bond's Quarries
Only a handful of problems but the rock is good and the approach is short. Just up the hill from Rowsley Woods.
http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/bonds_quarries.pdf

[highrepute]

nice one. Some good looking problems at stone edge!

Darkthrone is really class. Better than it looks int he photo.

the link to the Duke's Seat topo doesn't work - it's here
http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/uploads/6/7/5/0/67502783/dukes_seat.pdf

[monkey boy]

Friday looks like it could be ok and some good winds. Does anyone want to hazard a guess if Dark Throne will be dry?

[mark20]

It's surprisingly fast drying. If it's bright and breezy you'd probably be OK. The other stuff, especially the Prow down the hill, tend to take a bit longer to dry.

[monkey boy]

Thanks that's great. Mainly interested in Dark Throne, it looks brilliant.

[grimer]

Did you say 'Hazard a guess'?

[tomtom]

You gettin all Egghorny on us Grimer?

[Fiend]

Darkthrone looks brilliant in the photo anyway! I'm liking the name too 

[Johnny Brown]

Beta:

[tomtom]

Lovely film JB. Liked the birdsong in the background....

[monkey boy]

Cheers JB. Already done my research 

Liked the birdsong too, more and more I prefer the actual sounds going on when out rather than music.

[Johnny Brown]

Can't see it being in great nick anytime soon mind!

[Fiend]

Really nice video. I like the obligatory Klem, Darkthrone is a king line, and your choice of camouflage for it is exceptional.

[Johnny Brown]

RIP Klem.

[user deactivated]

Tweeting birds is the new ambient techno

[monkey boy]

Can't see it being in great nick anytime soon mind!

You don't think it's worth walking in on Friday then? It looks like good wind and sun so thought it might dry off.

[Johnny Brown]

It hasn't had a lot of traffic so is still pretty scrittly even when properly dry. We we there in a dry spell in March and you can still hear the scrittle. It's in a wood. It's rained every day this week and forecast to rain again tonight. Admittedly I've only been once but it definitely wouldn't be my first choice.

[Fiend]

You serious about Klem?? He's the only reason I watch any videos with Ben in.

[andy_e]

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,28566.0.html

[highrepute]

Can't see it being in great nick anytime soon mind!

You don't think it's worth walking in on Friday then? It looks like good wind and sun so thought it might dry off.

The scrittle will in evidence even if you go in a dry spell, take a brush and give it and clean. Saying that, it's not that scrittly, don't remember it being an issue when I did it. Pretty sure when I went it had rained over night and was damp when we arrived but dried off over the day (perhaps I'm miss-remembering, mark20 might agree/disagree), with the forecast wind and sun you're in with a shot. I'd say it's comparable to secret garden conditions wise. Obviously it's not going to be as reliable as plantation but that's exactly why you want to go there right?

[mark20]

I've definitely been there when it has rained over night and it has been fine. I think the leaves being off the trees, and a good breeze helps a lot. It is forecast to rain quite a lot tonight though and it's a fairly long walk in to find it wet.

The first couple of footholds are a bit scrittly but the rest is perfect gritstone. Perhaps worth taking 15m of rope and abbing down it (tree belays), to give the holds a brush if there has been a lot of rain and there is a chance scrittle and muck settling on the slopers - we never had a problem with scrittle as highrepute says

[monkey boy]

Thanks guys. Some forecasts are saying no rain tonight as well, although am sure it will, but really good winds and sun so I reckon we'll risk it. Also a friend did it within the last month so it will be cleaner from him. I'll take a rope just in case.

[grimer]

Great film, I really wanted to be there. And well done Mark etc for developing.

[Fiend]

Christ I missed that. Sorry to hear that El Mocho. I always liked Klem's cameos / spotting and his name ofc.

[monkey boy]

Everything dry at Dukes today. Dark Throne is great, thoroughly enjoyed it.