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One problem you just can't do? (Read 9165 times)

Stabbsy

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#25 Re: One problem you just can't do?
April 12, 2017, 11:59:25 am
The sit-start groove on the Flapjack boulder at Caley Crag - I have never got anywhere near it, despite it being around 4-5 grades within my ambit.

I was on this yesterday, looks simple, but does me over every time.

This is ridiculous. I've done it once after a lot of effort and never since.
I've always seen this problem as some sort of grade averaging out because Flapjack Traverse is only about 6C if you've got long arms. There is a way of folding long legs into the limited space available, but I know which of the two I find harder and which one I repeat most often!

I've always found Caley and Brimham hold a few of these for me, although I try then fairly infrequently - the groove rockover thing up at the top of Roadside between Blockbuster and Syrett's Saunter, the sit start to Back Stabber (Pocket Knife?) at Caley Crag, Triangular Roof (left exit to Rachel's Box) at Brimham and Pinky, formerly the hardest 7A in the world, now upgraded and still desperate!

andy_e

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#26 Re: One problem you just can't do?
April 12, 2017, 12:24:42 pm
Pinky's on my list. Apparently it used to be called "The Hardest V7 In The World". I got very close not so long ago only to tweak something in my palm from pulling on that pocket!

Monolith

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#27 Re: One problem you just can't do?
April 12, 2017, 02:00:56 pm
Closer to home it would have to be The barrel groove, a mere 5 grades below and still impossible after 3-4 sessions.  :thumbsdown:

Bring a prime juice head these days Rich, you'll be too heavy for it. Seems to be a small man's problem anyway. Go get Wedgie Wall repeated!

Andy F

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#28 Re: One problem you just can't do?
April 12, 2017, 02:29:32 pm
Quote from: AndyF
Trick arete, Earl
Even I've done that Andy!!! :icon_welcome:

You climb on grit. I don't. Hence everything which is brown, scrittly and conditions dependent kicks my arse.

stvey1987

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#29 Re: One problem you just can't do?
April 12, 2017, 04:56:31 pm
Recently got my first grit 7B in the peak and climbed lots of 7As too.....but two 6Bs I've tried multiple times still evade me: 1) balls test at baslow and stepped arete at robin hood stride (refuse to even try this these days!).

These sorts of problems are a good thing though...right...to help keep peoples egos in check... 

SA Chris

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#30 Re: One problem you just can't do?
April 17, 2017, 11:48:48 am
The Death Jug Mantle V1 at Smallacombe Rocks, although I did it last year (after a 10+ year siege) so it doesn't count, turns out it's piss once you find a way that suits.

Yup. All about where you put your left heel/foot. Still could never do small acorn though.

JamieG

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#31 Re: One problem you just can't do?
April 17, 2017, 01:31:00 pm
Trackside at Curbar! I think there is something wrong with my hips. I was can't get the weight into my hell/toe. :-)

Its all about where you place your right foot on the inside of the left arete... find the sweet spot and you'll rock over no problem...

One time, I started to rock over and then my heel popped. It was a beautiful elusive fleeting moment never to be repeated. I had to stop going to Curbar for awhile since it made me so sad and pensive. I'm over it now . . . . i think!  ;D Isn't that why we go bouldering?

 

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