You say that you're trying to improve OS level so I guess the lower level is where you should be working? If you were training for redpoints you'd probably skip the easier down climbing and just concentrate on more quality work around the OS level, i.e. better to do 2x7a than 7a, 6a, 6c.
Once a route is selected ... The route will be climbed two to four times in succession with a duty cycle of 1:2 reducing to 1:1
Thanks Nai.Yeah, I wasn't sure about the relative merits of downclimbing a "maintenance level" route (6a) rather than lowering. One of the reasons I do the downclimb is because it's such a short wall compared to what I do outside, that I want to have that continuity.
One paragraph form RCTM on pg 160 that I can't quite get me head around is:QuoteOnce a route is selected ... The route will be climbed two to four times in succession with a duty cycle of 1:2 reducing to 1:1Is this saying:Find route of correct difficulty (a + grade harder than regular onsight, so 7a+/b for me) get it wired.Do a "lap" (climb to top, lower off)Rest for twice the length of time the climb took.Do a 2nd lapRest for twice the length of time the climb took.Do a 3rd lap (optional)Rest for twice the length of time the climb took.Do a 4th lap (optional)As you get fitter reduce the rest time to 1:1.If so, that sound like higher intensity, lower continuity work than what I was doing. I'll probably transition to higher intensity stuff through April (in my usual haphazard way...)